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Check your headlight status and cause if there was a problem.

  • I had a starter switch problem.

    Votes: 80 58.8%
  • I had a problem with a large connector under a rubber cover in the left cowling.

    Votes: 22 16.2%
  • I had a problem with a connector on the radiator shroud.

    Votes: 21 15.4%
  • I had a problem with the high/low beam switch.

    Votes: 8 5.9%
  • I had a problem but don't know the specific area.

    Votes: 18 13.2%

  • Total voters
    136
41 - 60 of 116 Posts

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Is the EB headlight kit a cure for whatever is going wrong with all these starter switches, or is it just a way to ensure you still have headlights when the problems inevitably occur ?

Or to put it another way, is the stock headlight wiring responsible for the starter switch problems?

Maybe someone should start making an aftermarket starter switch if there are inherent problems with the stock unit, especially if it is something that could leave you stranded...
 

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As far as I know it is a cure for the problem. The problem stems from the fact that the headlights run through that and the ignition switch. The lights are a big draw on the system and it is more current than should be running through either of these switches. This causes failures by either arcing out across the switch connections or overloading the harness connector.

So why is the EB kit a cure? What the EB kit does is use the original headlight wires to to trigger relays which when closed (connected) run the headlights off the battery. The relays don't require anywhere near as much power to trigger as it does to run the lights. Thus a minimal amount of current runs through the problem switches.
 

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Thanks Gents, this thread just saved me a bunch of time and effort. Lights went out this AM. When I got to the office, grabbed the OM, and saw that low and high had different fuses. Figured the odds of both fuses blowing at one time were slim/none. Havent nailed it down yet, but I will add my answer when it's clear.


I would suggest a sticky in the Maint section "Both headlights hi/Lo failed? Look here first!!!!" I would add links to the switch adjustment/cleaning how-tos. Cant seem to find that though, found one thread that had two links, but both of this threads are gone.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #44

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No problems with my 2012, but I've only got about 2600 miles on it, and it's always garaged at night. I'm surprised they didn't use relays for the headlights?? That seems crazy! Guess I'll have to mod that if it goes south or if I get bored one day.
 

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At lunch, took about %75 of the assembly apart and rapped the switch box with the key in ON, made the lights flicker. So after work I will take it apart. One note, both of my black screws that hold the bottom part of the assembly on were the same length. Did that change on later models, mines an 09.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #48
The fiche for the 2009 model shows two different screws, 02112-0540B and 02112-0525B. The 2012 shows the same length screws.
 

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Headlights died - cautionary tale

My headlights just died at 40,000 miles and came to these pages as a result.

Like everyone else, I pulled over and checked the fuses, etc. to no avail. Not knowing the circuit on this bike (or bikes in general to be truthful) I assumed it was the ignition switch or a relay, since everything else on the bike was fine. After reading these forums, I tried moving the start switch around and was embarrassed to see that I could eventually get the lights to flicker (barely).

In my case (as with many others) it was the "starter switch" - (the switch on the handlebar not the ignition switch - took me a minute to realize that's what other people meant because I didn't even realize the headlights went through that switch!)

It's not a great design - and fixing it on the side of the road at night is probably not practical. Preventively fixing it at home, however, is relatively easy. So please do it today and save yourself from a major problem!




Long version:

My headlights died in the middle of a long commute and I'm too poor/stubborn to get a hotel, etc. So I ended up driving 70+ miles through very dark desert country without headlights. Some very scary moments - not something you want to have happen, believe me. In reading this forum it appears this is a very common problem - and the fix is relatively easy - so I'd *highly recommend* doing the preventive maintenance today so you won't have to deal with this.

Here's the page: Start Switch Maintenance | Black Lab Adventures

It's a pretty good walkthrough - in my case I was a little confused by the "wire restraint" part - it's obvious in hindsight but I didn't realize the whole insert came out of the housing.

This is really a fairly simple repair... In my case the spring pushing up on the contacts was binding. There is a post through the center of the spring that I don't see any need for. So I cut it out. That, combined with general cleaning restored it perfectly. I also bent up the contact "ears" a very slight amount for added security. The switch had some sand, and certainly some oxidation, etc. on the contacts - but the main problem was the spring loaded contact not pushing all the way up against the other contacts.
 

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Like Stomnickov my headlight just went out this sunday. I didn't even notice it until monday when I went to a bike night. there was still light we i left so I didn't know until the way home. Good thing I have aux lights.

I washed the bike on sunday and that's all I did. checked fuses and still good. Then I came here to research and found this thread. I just went out and wiggled the switch and the lights came on. I will do the cleaning this weekend as I have to change tires and chain and sprockets.
 

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Like Stomnickov my headlight just went out this sunday. I didn't even notice it until monday when I went to a bike night. there was still light we i left so I didn't know until the way home. Good thing I have aux lights.

I washed the bike on sunday and that's all I did. checked fuses and still good. Then I came here to research and found this thread. I just went out and wiggled the switch and the lights came on. I will do the cleaning this weekend as I have to change tires and chain and sprockets.

Also check and lube both head lamp bulb connectors and the large main connector on the left side. Good idea to take a pic as you take the starter switch apart unless your memory is excellent. My service manual showed an older switch, the one I have is mucho different so the schematic was useless.

You really need relay(s) to take the load off the stock harness, eventually there will be failures beyond the switch sadly. I ended up adding a HID kit that came with a relay and have had no further problems, mine was a dirty and dry switch plus a partially melted left side H4 connector.
 

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First post, been reading all the good info for a few months. Just had my low beams stop working on my 05 Wee @ 28,800 miles, culprit was the large connector [thanks Greywolf]. I cleaned it up and got them working, will be getting the EB relay kit.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #57
If you can do your own wiring and save labor costs, you can do it for under $20.
 

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If you can do your own wiring and save labor costs, you can do it for under $20.
Going to have to set some time aside soon to get all the parts ordered. Going to the junk yard might be a great source for the plugs. Was hoping someone else may be making an identical setup for less.

:thumbup:
 

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Alrighty!!! So basically all you need to do is go to Amazon or eBay and search for a H4 headlight wiring harness. Just ordered one, ~$20 shipped.

For those in the future!
 

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I had my headlights go out on me recently while riding through the Mohave desert at night. It was like closing my eyes shut tight, maybe I should plan around a full moon next time. Luckily I had a USB cable with me and was able to tie down my flash to pass switch. I'm sure I'm on a few truck driver's s**t lists now.

Anyway, my issue came from the right control connector. The terminals for the O/R Y/W wires were loose and were failing to make any contact. This is what the worse of the two terminals looked like, http://i.imgur.com/oyJR9P1.jpg

I chose to just bypass the connector and solder the two wires together. My side and yellow connectors show no signs of corrosion or heat damage.
 
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