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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks,

Part of my recent work included adding low- and high-beam relays along with some LED headlight bulbs (2002 DL1000). Today was a good day for a ride to the store (any excuse will do!) and also the first day riding after dark with the upgraded light system.

Well, it failed. Now, before anyone starts making fun of my relays (Dave :D ) today's symptom did happen before the relays were installed. That symptom was no light. To be precise, turn on the ignition, headlights come on, push start button, headlights go off, engine starts and the headlights did NOT come back on. I tried several times and this happened maybe half the starts. When the engine was running and the headlights were off, revving the engine did not get them to turn on. HOWEVER, switch to high-beam and the headlights indeed come on (high-beam). Then switch to low-beam and the low-beam headlights come on and work properly until the next engine start.

Another possibly related symptom I noticed before was the dark delay between low-beam and high-beam and vice versa - change the beam selection and there would be as long as a full second of darkness before the selected beam came on - SOMETIMES. In addition, SOMETIMES when selecting high-beam the low-beam would stay lit for anywhere from a second to 30 seconds or more before turning off and leaving just the high-beam on. I am happy to say this has not happened since adding the low- and high-beam relays along with new wiring from the fusebox to the relays and onward to the Back Off modulator which plugs onto the headlight bulbs. Only one relay is activated at any time.

So, what do you all think? Is it the start switch or the dimmer switch?

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Glen no making fun, but I suspect that with everything you've added to what I had on the bike — brake modulator and the extra chanel;s added to the front modulator plug — that not only could this be part of the problem it will also be difficult to diagnose.

I will repeat again that my NBB needs relays for nothing, has a front modulator fro the headlights and a rear modulator for the brake. Again not making fun, but the entire wiring is +ve and -ve wires to the Black Box. Absolutely nothing else.

If you can't figure this one, out, let's have a chat.

OK, I can't help myself. I will make fun, you wank :) :)

Good luck
 

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Checking ALL your earths would be a good place to start, especially on your new work.

It sounds like you could have power feeding backwards at times and that could happen through a earth.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Glen no making fun, but I suspect that with everything you've added to what I had on the bike — brake modulator and the extra chanel;s added to the front modulator plug — that not only could this be part of the problem it will also be difficult to diagnose.

I will repeat again that my NBB needs relays for nothing, has a front modulator fro the headlights and a rear modulator for the brake. Again not making fun, but the entire wiring is +ve and -ve wires to the Black Box. Absolutely nothing else.

If you can't figure this one, out, let's have a chat.

OK, I can't help myself. I will make fun, you wank :) :)

Good luck
Hahahahaha, I knew I could count on you! :ROFLMAO: Seriously, though, I have moved my power source for the dual USB and 12V outlet from the unused headlight plug to the proper new Heated Grips adapter so now essentially factory (although using much less power than heated grips). They and the DVM use the factory ground circuit via the Heated Grips adapter and factory harness. The DVM + goes through a new ON/OFF switch and directly to the battery + with no other stops in between. Thanks for your offer of a chat. Yes, maybe we will. Who knows, maybe I'll be in your neck of the woods again - even if only for a long layover between flights. I know now the Neutrino would have been easier, but when I started this I didn't realize that AND I thought it would be pretty expensive. You know, 20/20 hindsight.

Rolex, I will check the grounds starting at the end of the Negative battery cable. I know the end that connects to the battery is clean and tight - just did it when I installed the auxiliary fusebox.

All my connections and terminals are as good or better than the factory installation. I know there was an issue before I did this work so I really think the switches are suspect and maybe some factory ground points I haven't seen. I've cleaned up and saved these switches on my Trophy before. Can they be opened up and cleaned on the Strom, too? Anyone done it?

Thank you for your thoughts.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi folks,

I'm not feeling well enough yet to go out to the garage and start taking things apart. I did, owever, feel OK to search the wiring diagram when I remembered someone saying they thought the 2002 has a different start switch set-up than newer years. Well, they were right. The 2003, '03 & '04 are indeed different than the 2005 and newer. The early ones have a 2-wire start switch whose wires go to a 10-pin plug. The 2005 and newer have a 4-wire start switch with those wires going to a 14-pin plug. Those newer ones seem to be the ones that have the 2 headlight contacts in the start switch engaged until the switch is pressed to start the engine.

So, what kills the headlights when the start switch is pressed on the 2002-2004 models? I can't see anything like a load dump relay on the schematic or anything else obvious that kills them when the starter is engaged.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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I think I remember reading the early bikes don't shut the lights off like the 2005 & later bikes but I have never owned or worked on a early bike...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think I remember reading the early bikes don't shut the lights off like the 2005 & later bikes but I have never owned or worked on a early bike...
My 2002 definitely kills the headlights while starting. I just can't see how by the schematic. Weird.

UNLESS, that's a byproduct of the Back Off modulator. Hmmm.

I'll still open up both switches for cleaning and see what I find.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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My 2002 definitely kills the headlights while starting. I just can't see how by the schematic. Weird.

UNLESS, that's a byproduct of the Back Off modulator. Hmmm.

I'll still open up both switches for cleaning and see what I find.

Cheers,
Glenn
Be Careful - There are springs in those switches that like to go BOING BOING BOING and fly away. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, they're tricky buggers - usually leave the universe at the first BOING!
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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I do know that some earlier suzuki's did leave the headlights on when starting. It is okay if your battery is perfect.

Cheers

RLBranson
 

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If you go to blacklab adventures (google it) there is a write-up, complete with pictures of how to clean and service the switch... The guy had a Wee, but you get the idea. I put on my bike a headlight relay harness I got from easternbeaver. This stops all the power having to go through the switch and the switch becomes the trigger for the relays. I elected to have the option of being able to turn off my low beam with a separate switch. Which is nice when I ride up to the access gate at work and I'm not blinding the guard with my LED headlights.
 

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My 2004 WEE definitely did not have the headlight cutoff feature and it never had starting problems until the battery got real old. Seems to me overengineered by SZ.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My 2004 WEE definitely did not have the headlight cutoff feature and it never had starting problems until the battery got real old. Seems to me overengineered by SZ.
Thanks man. You confirmed my thinking that the 2002-2004 are indeed different from 2005+.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Sounds like the trigger wire for the relay might be either wired wrong or connected to the wrong power supply.

If you want to make life easy a FZ-1 Fuse blocks makes it easy to wire up accessories and also keep them separate from the stock wiring harness.

The FZ-1 powers off the battery and then connect a trigger wire to a keyed power source. Then depending on how you install the fuses will determine if you have a keyed power source or a power all the time power source.

I ended up buying 2 and 3 pin plugs and making custom quick disconnect whips


FUZE.jpg


Fuzeblock.png
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sounds like the trigger wire for the relay might be either wired wrong or connected to the wrong power supply.

If you want to make life easy a FZ-1 Fuse blocks makes it easy to wire up accessories and also keep them separate from the stock wiring harness.

The FZ-1 powers off the battery and then connect a trigger wire to a keyed power source. Then depending on how you install the fuses will determine if you have a keyed power source or a power all the time power source.

I ended up buying 2 and 3 pin plugs and making custom quick disconnect whips


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I have let you down by not updating this particular thread. I did post some stuff on the maintenance one, but let me get this one cleaned up.

I have essentially done what have said here, but my auxiliary fuse box is entirely switched via a relay triggered by the tail light positive.

My individual low-beam and high-beam relays are triggered by their respective wires from the bike's original fusebox using piggyback fuse jumpers from the switched side of the fuses.

I am pretty sure my headlight is cutting out when the starter is engaged either because that is a side effect/benefit of the Back Off modulator OR due the the starter not leaving enough volts to supply the LED headlight bulbs while cranking. This was mentioned above. It could be that the old halogen bulbs would just dim while cranking whereas the LEDs actually cut out while cranking. I just don't know why they will usually, but not always, come back on when the engine is running. I may bypass the modulator sometime to see if that is the cause (incompatibility with LED bulbs), but for now I'll just select high beam to make sure they are back on.

Cheers,
Glenn

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