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I'm used to riding motorcycles that have the headlight mounted on the forks, so it turns and points wherever the tire points. (500cc cruiser and 225cc dual sport)

For those of you who went from motorcycles with a similar headlight setup to a V-Strom with its fixed position headlight that always shines straight ahead, how different or weird is it when riding that the headlight doesn't point in the same direction as the tire?

(I realize I would have this difference with most of the bikes I'm looking at, but I figured since I'm investigating the dl650 the most, I'd ask it in this forum.)

And 2nd question, does the headlight on this bike put out a nice light pattern (ie, good side distance/depth and forward shining ability)? I know I could change the bulb out, but I'm hoping it's already good (I'm somewhat disappointed in my current bikes' headlight output patterns).

Thanks,
-b
 

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When I got my Strom it felt to me like someone was behind me all the time as the lights didn't move with the bars. i got used to it pretty quickly.

As far as light adjustemnt goes, I have found that the lights are great on the Strom. I thought I wanted better lights until I adjusted them properly. Most people never seem to have them adjusted correctly.. it is important to adjust the left and right separately otherwise it is hard to tell how they are set.

..Tom
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Changing the bulb won't do anything to the pattern. HID replacements are possible and include a headlight relay. Relay kits are also available to put out more light and prevent connector and contact failure in the future with the stock bulbs. The stockers are better than most H4 replacements. Car drivers are used to lights not moving with the front wheels so it shouldn't be a difficult transition. Stroms have great stock headlights compared to most motorcycles.
 

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For me it wasn't just the headlight that was weird, it was the whole fairing. It took a while (2 weeks or so) to get used to the whole front end of the bike staying in place instead of turning with the front frorks. Maybe it's that you cant see the front wheel, I'm not sure what it was. But, I don't even notice it now, and I love the protection of the fairing.

The headlight is great. A lot better than my Harley. I couldn't believe how good it was. The pattern is good and it's really bright with those dual headlights.
 

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Love the strom's headlights, but regularly find myself turning on the high beams (when there is no oncoming traffic) in order to get more light as I'm going around unlit or poorly lit corners.
 

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I too went from a Fork Mounted headlight, funniest thing for me was, I would always turn my forks to the left to keep my light from shining into the eyes of the driver in front of me, and it took a while on the Vee to get out of the habit, which of course, has no effect with the Fairing mounted light....
 

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Remember that when you're countersteering, a fork-mounted lamp is pointing even farther from where you're looking than a fairing mounted light is.
 

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Mine has a better spread than my 4WD does!
Must have come from the factory properly aimed.

As my previous three bikes all had fixed headlights I didn't notice a change, other than the Strom lights are SO much better than my previous GS had.

Never did like the fact that my old bikes years ago used to lose the road on turns due to counter steering (crap lights on bikes way back then though too).
 

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great headlights.
amazing with HID

can't see a thing going around corners, but it's because, when leaned over, what's around the corner is above the cutoff of the headlight

has nothing to do with the headlight turning with the forks or not.
 

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Great lights on the stroms. They can be brightened by changing to HID lights, or by installing a relay kit, or by installing the +50% or similar H4 headlight bulbs (but shorter bulb life). There can be some variation with light pattern. Some cheaper bulbs don't place the filament as precisely in the optical center of the reflector. Other bulbs place the filament to give scam light "brightness" readings with a hot spot in the pattern (PIAA).

H4 - HB2 - 9003 bulbs
Philips Moto Vision H4 (single bulb) from Power Bulbs | Free Worldwide Delivery
 

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Great lights on the stroms. They can be brightened by changing to HID lights, or by installing a relay kit, or by installing the +50% or similar H4 headlight bulbs (but shorter bulb life). There can be some variation with light pattern. Some cheaper bulbs don't place the filament as precisely in the optical center of the reflector. Other bulbs place the filament to give scam light "brightness" readings with a hot spot in the pattern (PIAA).

H4 - HB2 - 9003 bulbs
Philips Moto Vision H4 (single bulb) from Power Bulbs | Free Worldwide Delivery
no thanks I have enough people blazing me with their Highbeams as it is... the stock lights are better than anything I have ever owned...
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I have HID lights and nobody has ever flashed their brights at me. Check your headlight aim.
 

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I like good lights. My Connie currently has some +80 Phillips bulbs in them and I have some +100's here to replace them (or maybe put into the Vee).

I've only ridden the Vee at night a few times and I have to say that I'm reasonably impressed with the headlights. Not sure whether to do the bulb upgrade or not as the Connie is my main "ride through the night" machine.

That being said good bulbs are not expensive and are I good farkle in terms of safety...
 

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If adding a relay improves the factory lighting, I wouldn't think higher-drain bulbs would be much brighter unless you also add a relay.

At that point, I'd be worried about current draw. Hope you're not running heated gear with 100 watt bulbs on a wee... let alone a vest or jacket!
 

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The +40, +50, etc. bulbs can be standard wattage (standard electrical consumption of 60 watts high beam and 55 watts low beam each), but put out more light (measured in lumens or candela or candlepower) due to better (costlier) gases in the bulb, more precise (costlier) filament placement so it is in the exact optical center of the reflector, and running the filament hotter giving more light but shorter life.

Adding a relay to the headlight circuit puts more voltage to the bulbs due to less resistance in the circuit (bigger wires), and the big plus is that it gets the headlight current away from relative light duty contacts in the handlebar switches. These switches now only handle low current to trigger the relays.
 

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On a trailbike, it is grand to be able to stop, and sweep the beam back & forth, to select your next path forwards into the night.
But, for better or worse, middle & larger bikes (both trail and road types) are moving more and more to fairings - and fixed lights. The new BMW-1600's swivelling low-beam hardly justifies the complexity/cost - and I gather the high-beam is fixed, anyway.

My first impression of the V-Strom's high-beam output was . . . wow, this throws a wider pattern than many cars. On the other hand, the pattern seemed to lack a bit in the central punch/penetration department - though that is probably more "apparent" than real, and simply expresses a fairly even illumination across the width of the combined beam (compared with a single headlight's narrower beam design).

Possibly you could achieve (if wanted) more central "punch" using some of the many 60watt quartz-halogens that boast +30% or +50%. But you may well lose some side illumination, for I gather that these bulbs kind of "cheat" by having less spread but more central concentration. [Also, as others have pointed out - by gaining higher lumen output through a hotter filament / shorter-life design.]
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