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Discussion Starter #1
I happy with the stock lights on my 2007 Vee but don't know what type of bulb will be best as a replacement. Some night I'll need a bulb and be sorry I didn't replace the pair sooner; or at least have a spare. As will every other modification there seems to be the old trade off between performance and reliability. More light would be nice but not by a sacrifice of reliability.
I'm asking for suggestions ?
- Sylvania Silverstar Ultra
-Osram SilverStar ( from Europe ? and not the same as US SilverStar ? )
- Philips VisionPlus
- PIAA H4 60/55W Xtreme White Anti-Vibration XTRA
- Osram Nightbreakers H4 55/60w Pure white light, no coating & DOT acceptable.
 

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Philips MotoVision.
More light, made specifically for bikes, and cast a hue that makes you more visible to others.
Works for me.

TM
 

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Philips

Philips extreme +80 Literally 80 percent brighter than stock
 

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I've been running the, standard, Sylvania Silverstars in my bike since day 1 and I'm very pleased with them. I have a pair of the Ultras in my tool box but haven't installed them yet.


The Osram SilverStars are supposed to be brighter and more robust than the Sylvania ones but I've never found them to try them.

I put Sylvania Silverstars in my car and had one burn out after only a month or so. I changed it out and it has been fine since.
 

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I happy with the stock lights on my 2007 Vee but don't know what type of bulb will be best as a replacement. Some night I'll need a bulb and be sorry I didn't replace the pair sooner; or at least have a spare. As will every other modification there seems to be the old trade off between performance and reliability. More light would be nice but not by a sacrifice of reliability.
I'm asking for suggestions ?
- Sylvania Silverstar Ultra
-Osram SilverStar ( from Europe ? and not the same as US SilverStar ? )
- Philips VisionPlus
- PIAA H4 60/55W Xtreme White Anti-Vibration XTRA
- Osram Nightbreakers H4 55/60w Pure white light, no coating & DOT acceptable.
Out of all the lights listed the PIAA H4 60/55W Xtreme White is the brightest at 4000K. But they are intended to give a slight blue hue. If you intend to look like HID this is the best way to go. The Silverstar has a rep of going out at around 6 months. I don't believe in internet rumors until my Sliverstars went out....at 6 months. Methinks the vibrations kills them off early.

I now have the PIAA H4 60/55W Intense White. It is even brighter than Xtreme White (without the blue hue) at 4150K. HID is at 4300K. With the PIAA Intense white I no longer use my bights unless I'm modulating during daylight hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
PIAA

Thanks for the help, I've ordered 2 PIAA H4 Star White bulbs from Les at Dual Sport Plus.
 

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I have had SilverStars in the Wee for 3 years now. No failures.
 

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i'd put silverstars in my cage, i liked them a lot, till they blew out after 9 months on avg, pulled my DRL relay so they weren't burning all the time got almost a year out of them
complained to sylvania and they sent me a couple pairs of the silverstar ultras, like these bulbs even better, lifetime is slightly better than the straightup silverstars
not sure how they'd hold up on the strom though
 

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I happy with the stock lights on my 2007 Vee but don't know what type of bulb will be best as a replacement. Some night I'll need a bulb and be sorry I didn't replace the pair sooner; or at least have a spare. As will every other modification there seems to be the old trade off between performance and reliability. More light would be nice but not by a sacrifice of reliability.
I'm asking for suggestions ?
- Sylvania Silverstar Ultra
-Osram SilverStar ( from Europe ? and not the same as US SilverStar ? )
- Philips VisionPlus
- PIAA H4 60/55W Xtreme White Anti-Vibration XTRA
- Osram Nightbreakers H4 55/60w Pure white light, no coating & DOT acceptable.

My luck with SilverStars has been bad also. I am going to try some of the others the good folks have suggested. I always run bright in the daytime.

Mike
 

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I just ordered a pair of the Osram Nightbreakers. I had read in VSRI that the UK version is not the same as what's in the US? They got a good review, so I ordered them from http://www.powerbulbs.com/product_detail.asp?prod=111 in the UK and they're on sale for 17.49 GBP or $26.59 US per pair with free shipping.

Supposedly 90% more light blah blah blah, we'll see. I'll report back with my findings.
 

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I've been running the, standard, Sylvania Silverstars in my bike since day 1 and I'm very pleased with them.
+1. Add the Eastern Beaver H4 kit and you can light a cigar off them. Before the relay kit their life was too short; maybe 4 months. With the kit, I've had the same set burning on High Beam 80% of the time for quite a bit longer.
 

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i'd put silverstars in my cage, i liked them a lot, till they blew out after 9 months on avg
I had a pair of Silverstars burn out in my cage after 6 moths, got free replacements... the replacements blew after five. Great bulbs, when they work.

My new non-Silverstars have lasted 3 years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Star Whites

I installed had my PIAA H4 Star White bulbs last spring and have about 18,000km on them.
Stock wiring and I use a Kissan modulator most of the time. The bulbs work great and seem to last ok.
 

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Inteestign thread. I have been wondering about adding a hid kit or lights. but now Is ee there are bulbs that can get close to HID's and would work better in the light housings we have. anyone have a take on the PIAA H4 Star White bulbs l vs hid ?
 

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Here's a different perspective.
I tried the silverstars long ago on another bike.

At night, I found the increased light reflection from road signs and other objects impaired my night vision.

At night, the whiter light tended to slightly wash out colors of objects, making them harder to recognise. Is that a tree branch, or a tar snake, or a road crack, or a piece of pipe I'm about to run over?

The lines on the road weren't as yellow, the grass on the side wasn't as green, none of the colors stood out like normal, kinda like an overexposed photograph. Things I would normally easily recognise became not so.

The bulb only lasted 8mo/10K miles.

I know some people like'm, but I don't.
 

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I wish to add in what I usually say when people want to upgrade their headlights:

Please first take the time to make sure your headlights are actually adjusted correctly. It amazes me that many of my fellow Strom riders don't seem to have their headlights adjusted properly. Usually it seems the low beam is too low. In this case better bulbs just means that you will have the brighter light pointed at the wrong area. I rode my bike a year and thought the headlights were decent. Then I clued into adjusting them properly and was pleasantly surprised at how much better they are. At the time one of my cars had Bi-Xenon headlights, which are simply the best you can get, and yet I don't think that my Strom is all that far behind them with stock headlights and bulbs.

Strommers really need to take the time and adjust the left and right headlight separately. You can do this by either masking one side while adjusting the other or by unplugging one of the bulbs while doing the other (I hate disturbing electrical connections if you don't need to do so!) I think also that setting the lights statically is only the start of the process.. set them up so that the two lights match and seem to be at the right spot and then go for a ride and make sure that the low beams do a distant range down the road when riding at around 55 or 60 mph. When riding slower the natural attitude change of the bike will make them closer at low speed and at higher speeds they'll point a bit further down the road. Remember that when riding a 60 mph you don't need to see something 10 feet in front of the bike as you have already hit it anyway!

..Tom
 

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I wish to add in what I usually say when people want to upgrade their headlights:

Please first take the time to make sure your headlights are actually adjusted correctly. It amazes me that many of my fellow Strom riders don't seem to have their headlights adjusted properly. Usually it seems the low beam is too low. In this case better bulbs just means that you will have the brighter light pointed at the wrong area. I rode my bike a year and thought the headlights were decent. Then I clued into adjusting them properly and was pleasantly surprised at how much better they are. At the time one of my cars had Bi-Xenon headlights, which are simply the best you can get, and yet I don't think that my Strom is all that far behind them with stock headlights and bulbs.

Strommers really need to take the time and adjust the left and right headlight separately. You can do this by either masking one side while adjusting the other or by unplugging one of the bulbs while doing the other (I hate disturbing electrical connections if you don't need to do so!) I think also that setting the lights statically is only the start of the process.. set them up so that the two lights match and seem to be at the right spot and then go for a ride and make sure that the low beams do a distant range down the road when riding at around 55 or 60 mph. When riding slower the natural attitude change of the bike will make them closer at low speed and at higher speeds they'll point a bit further down the road. Remember that when riding a 60 mph you don't need to see something 10 feet in front of the bike as you have already hit it anyway!

..Tom

See I think my biggest thing is not necessarily whats in fornt of me but more getting more lgiht to the sides. the wee relay dose that well with its lights I find but its less lgith to the sides, I want to see the deer eyes if I am stuck out at night before he decided to run in front of me idea. so my idea of ore light is so the spread past whats infront of me is more
 

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Remember that when riding a 60 mph you don't need to see something 10 feet in front of the bike as you have already hit it anyway!
That's sort of what was happening to me on my "other" bike with the silverstar, which has a single headlight. Although "seeing it" far enough ahead of time was no problem, "recognising it" was. I found myself needlessly dodging stuff like lines/cracks/tarsnakes that I would otherwise have recognised far enough ahead of time with the oem bulb, even though overall lighting was a little greater with the silverstar.

I find whiter lighting reduces color and contrast, which reduces detail. This is also noticable with house, building, and street lighting. Increased concentrated reflection also reduces night vision.

I've always checked up/down alignment under real "working conditions", by noticing where my lights hit the back of smaller vehicles. If the upper "line" penetrates the rear window and into the cab, I adjust them accordingly. This can vary according to how the bike is loaded. I hate misadjusted lights in my rearview and try not to be guilty of it myself.

For the left/right alignment, I look at the pattern on a long, straight dark back country road. With dual lights, I like to have the low beam overlap adjusted for maximun distance straight down the road. I feel like this also helps to NOT wash out my profile to a vehicle waiting to pull out in front of me from side roads during the daylight. Because of this, IMO having your lights adjusted for more illumination of the ditches at night, increases risk during the day.

Although I usually avoid night time travel on a bike, the stroms oem lights are more than adequate for illuminating the road in front of you.
 

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Out of all the lights listed the PIAA H4 60/55W Xtreme White is the brightest at 4000K.
The 4000k color temperature tells us the color of the light, not the brightness. Light output is measured in lumens. The color temperature in degrees Kelvin measures the bluishness of the color--higher color temperature is a bluer light.

PIAA is infamous for their phony measurements of light output. They design the bulb so it puts more intense lighting in one bright spot, measure the bright spot, and advertise more light output for the same electrical wattage. PIAA is also infamous for their pricing.

All the high output bulbs will have shorter bulb life. The bulbs that claim +30% or +50% greater light output (measured in lumens) at stock wattage also cheat somewhat in how they measure the light. +80% at stock wattage?...I doubt it.

The bluer the bulb the more the light will scatter and cause glare. The blue dye on the bulb also takes away some of the light output. These light blue bulbs look better to us, but don't help us see better.

VStrom lights are so good that I'm satisfied with standard H4 bulbs in mine. Yes, I have diddled with the aim and like where it is now. By the way, I have overwattage high output bulbs in my truck (Osram 70/65 watts +50% + relays,vs. stock 60/55 watt bulbs) and 9012 (HIR2) high output bulbs replacing stock 9006 bulbs in the car.

Sylvania is the U.S. label for Osram lighting. Osram is the rest-of-the-world label. Sylvania Silverstars have the blue dye on the bulb. Osram Silverstars are not retailed in the U.S. except by specialty mail order outfits, and do not have the faddish blue dye.

Somebody needs to check the voltage that actually gets to our headlights if it hasn't already been done. It's easy...remove a headlight socket, put some light wire in the terminals, put the socket back on, and measure the voltages on both high and low beams with a voltmeter. 13.2 volts at the energized headlights is great. A 5% voltage drop, 12.55 volts, results in a 17% reduction in the light output, and is a good argument for either headlight relays or, cheaper these days, HID lighting.

Does anyone know anything about ddmtuning.com HID lighting? $60 for a dual H4 hi/lo HID lighting kit sounds interesting if it is any good. Add the 35w kit for fog or driving lights and that would be one well lit bike. The 3000K color temperature sounds good to me. I do not like the glare from bluish or purplish bulbs on rainy roads.
 
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