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Do you like your OEM Sprocket or like the change that you made?? POLL open for 31 days.

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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 14 Vee I bought new and absolutely love but it always seemed to be a bit mushy getting going. Not bad, as it could outrun most things, but a noticeable lag.
SO I just changed my front drive sprocket from the OEM 17 T to a 15 T and so far I absolutely LOVE it. No more little sag in power in 1/2/3rd gears. AND no chain changes, just pop it in. It moved the rev range up just a bit where you are hitting the mid power band with that low torque that we love. I ride quite a bit off road on the MABDR and mountain roads//trails here in the Mid Atlantic states on the East Coast of the US. Love that this ratio works well for on road and off. It is not SO revved up that its a pain on the highway but it just really seems to have power on tap in any gear. Roll ons are amazing IMHO. I had disabled the servo and added a Servo Buddy so it actually gets gas. It is something how lean they run from the factory. With these two things i have tapped more into this bike's potential for my style of riding.If I was just going to run the highways, which may happen as I get even older, then I will probably go back to stock or even 1-2 T higher. There may be a little lag but you can sure get where you are going quicker!!
Anyway, I have not seen this addressed here that much and was wondering how it affects bikes across the gen ranges.I realize the poll is only for the front sprocket.
 

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I'd guess a lot of us go to 16 tooth on the front, knocks some of the slight buzz off the rpm's, without much noticeable loss of oomph, and saves about 2..394 drops of gas per tank.
 

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16T here, on my previous '14 and on actual '18 model. Better performance, worse MPH (that I don't care). Love it...
 

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changing sprockets on the 650 and the 1000 is not the same situation. this poll should break it down for 650 and 1000 separately. my 650 cruises smoother with 1 up (16) but i never carry a passenger and I live in a place that is close to sea level and very few hills so I don't need the last bit of power available .
 

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changing sprockets on the 650 and the 1000 is not the same situation. this poll should break it down for 650 and 1000 separately. my 650 cruises smoother with 1 up (16) but i never carry a passenger and I live in a place that is close to sea level and very few hills so I don't need the last bit of power available .
This posting is in the DL1000 14-16 subforum so it kinda goes without saying it's regarding the 1000.
 

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A 16t for me, this is my old post.


All these years later I still find myself setting the cruise control when only in 5th gear.
 

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Marked the "down" in the poll, because I actually went up in the rear to a 43T and its been working out great. Better take off and easier on the fireroads. Still works for the 80 mph freeways in Montana. Good compromise w/ no loss in MPG.
 
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If you click on the "new" button it brings up whatever is new. It would not be that hard to be more self explanatory. I don't know why you can't make it easy for people.
 

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I tried a 16 on my V2, but swapped back to 17 for my trip because there was a lot of highway miles needed, and I sure don't benefit from higher RPM's for that. It is better for slow speed riding though, just not for Highway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I agree. If I was going to do a lot of road miles I would def either go back or up a few to just cruise even easier. This gives me the ride I have been looking for in my Vee. Along with the Servo bypass it gets a much better fuel map and keeps in the torque curve for dirt/hills etc.
[
 

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I tried a 16 on my V2, but swapped back to 17 for my trip because there was a lot of highway miles needed, and I sure don't benefit from higher RPM's for that. It is better for slow speed riding though, just not for Hig1hway6.
I put a 16 tooth on my 2014 1000. Love it the bike should come geared like that from the factory IMO. Makes 6th gear useable under 80 hah.

There's a 400 RPM increase (at the same speeds) compared to the stock 17. Gas usage is the same far as I can tell.
 

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Higher RPM does not necessarily mean more fuel used.

I never had the stock gearing on my V2 long enough to do a formal test but when I dropped a tooth from the front of my Wee my fuel consumption dropped too.

I also got a higher top speed.
 

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I have been runnung a 43T rear but the time has come for a new drive set and I located a 44T to gear down a tad more. I like the closer spacing between gears for more drive. Sixth is still overdrive.
 

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I went to a 16 and did enjoy the small added torque, and could see how this would be better if you do off-road. But on the highway I was always looking for another gear, so I ultimately decided to go back to stock. For street use, except for first gear, I realized you can get basically the same effect just by shifting later.

Edit -- just remembered another reason I went back...at a typical highway speed of around 65 mph, it put rpm in a range where there was a much louder engine / exhaust note which I usually try to avoid cruising in.

I know it's been mentioned before, but in case anyone isn't familiar with it, this site has loads of information you can play around with for analyzing gearing changes.

 

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I like a 43 on the back, stock on the front. My takeaway is that it keeps the engine in a slightly higher
rpm range that is much smoother . I believe it shifts better and smoother this way as well. I am overgrown
at about 100 kg but the bike really spanks. FYI, 2015 model with 13500 on the clock, stock pipe and I use
a booster plug. 1D12FB9A-EB44-420A-B492-D4C8D6125956.jpeg
 

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Hey has anyone tried an 18 tooth on the front I'm trying to bring the RPMs down on the highway and I feel like the bike has plenty of low end grunt not too interested in popping wheelies but would definitely like to see the fuel consumption at about 80 miles per hour slow down.. 80 miles per hour is about the average Interstate speed around here any slower than that and you're getting passed by tractor trailers the givi Airstream two brothers pipe and boosterplug have majorly transformed this bike and it has a little bit more touring ability but it really has a fuel drinking problem at about 3/4 throttle in a 40 mile run if I'm on the pipe I can literally watch the fuel gauge dropping and it is tacked way up about to buy a new set of chain and sprocket of anyway adjust the researching some options not looking for low speed low end power it is geared 2 low already the bike is a complete handful trying to ride off road in first all the time hit the gas at throws you to the seat let off the gas and it wants to throw you over the handlebars it's no dirt bike but I believe it could benefit from a slightly taller gearing anyone have any input from actually trying it not even sure if an 18t sprocket will fit on the counter shaft and tuck-in properly with no clearance issues.... anyone that knows anything about it I would be much obliged to hear it

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You should try a throttle tamer to control the on off feeling you get in low gears,

By dropping a tooth you get like half gears so gear 2 is more like one and a half giving the slower speed manoeuvrability and still giving the very low speed control of first gear, no clutch work required to get the bike down to crawl, if you were to go up a tooth you will find you need more clutch slip to slow down to a crawl and to move away from a stop.
 
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You should try a throttle tamer to control the on off feeling you get in low gears,

By dropping a tooth you get like half gears so gear 2 is more like one and a half giving the slower speed manoeuvrability and still giving the very low speed control of first gear, no clutch work required to get the bike down to crawl, if you were to go up a tooth you will find you need more clutch slip to slow down to a crawl and to move away from a stop.
Hey at one point I considered the throttle tamer and I think my conclusion was that I can only find it for the earlier model DL1Ks and mine is a 16..
However my research was limited in that area I went with the booster plug and most of that herky-jerky disappeared the bike is very manageable now at lower speeds but still does not have that crawl ability that you're talkin about I originally pushed the limits with the 1000 took it a bunch of places you would think I was out of my mind and I proved the bike can do it but I was always worried about breaking something important and the bottom line is it a really nice bike and I was trashing it ..I still hit a few gravel roads with it but I had to go get a dirt bike, a DRZ more specifically for the technical off-road stuff my only real complaint With the DL1K is that I feel like it's got tons of power but all the gears are close together and down low which is great for be-bopping around town but when I get on the bigger roads and try to go 4 or 500(ridin to the beach!) miles while I am physically comfortable sitting on the bike it feels like I am maxing the bike out with is the gearing on the highway.
Do you have a link for that throttle tamer it's project season here in the Mid-Atlantic LOL we've had some crap weather lately!

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You should try a throttle tamer to control the on off feeling you get in low gears,

By dropping a tooth you get like half gears so gear 2 is more like one and a half giving the slower speed manoeuvrability and still giving the very low speed control of first gear, no clutch work required to get the bike down to crawl, if you were to go up a tooth you will find you need more clutch slip to slow down to a crawl and to move away from a stop.
Hey and I think I got the word out another thread but I'll be redundant do you have a recommendation for a brand of sprockets I'm pretty stuck on the idea of an RK 525 X-Ring chain but I am definitely open to suggestions
Thanks!

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