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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
K8 Wee with 30,000 miles. Took it in for the 15k(ish) mile service.
Replaced (4) plugs.
New coolant.
Throttle bodies adjusted.
Valve clearances checked/adjusted.
Air filter replaced.
Rear brake pads replaced.
Whatever other inspection they do... I told them not to change the oil/filter because I had done that myself within the last 2000 miles.

Grand total... $560. :jawdrop:I nearly lost my $H1T when I got the bill.:furious:

Was I robbed? I don't have the tools nor the experience to do much more than replace my oil, but now I'm thinking I should get them before the next maintenance interval.

Your thoughts?

TIA
 

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Robbed? no, you paid for mechanics to do it for you. Labor to take the plastic/tank off takes time. You should have gotten a close estimate BEFORE they did anything. I think the price is in line

valves 300.00
air 50.00
plugs 40.00
sync 50.00
brakes 60.00
coolant 35.00

it's close in my opinion
 

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Ouch! That is expensive, but it's about what I would expect. You do not need to be a very experienced mechanic to do the more basic routine maintenance, and it does not require a huge investment in tools. There are step-by-step instructions with pictures on this site for most routine maintenance procedures. The valves and throttle sync should last many thousands of miles.
 

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Sounds about right. That is why I have the factory service manual for every bike I own. They average about $70 each, but easily pay themselves off the first time you do it yourself.

Craftsman Tool Selection $150
Inch/lb torque wrench $75
Factory Manual $70
Help available from forum PRICELESS!!! :thumbup:
 

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I had exactly the same service done, minus the brake pads, for just under $400. My Suzuki dealer charges $90/hour. Either your shop has a higher rate or they work slower.
 

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Your thoughts?
Learn to do it yourself. I couldn't afford to own a bike if I had to pay for shop service. But I also think the price you were charged was fair. If you asked, they would have told you the price up front.
 

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I would say about average for dealers. As long as thy did everything correctly , the needs for quite awhile should be minimal.
 

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Sounds like its in the ballpark, a valve check and adjustment would typically cost a few pennies for sure. As someone posted above, are you sure they actually performed the task? And if so I must ask, 'Do you think it was done with as much precission and care if you where to perform it yourself with a shop manual and all your friends here?

Not to say all dealers are shady, although it seems as though I have found more than my fair share (If there is a percentage, ya'll are safe as they are all local to 17814). Its been many years since any of my machine have been in a shop, and my simple rule is,if I ain't splitting cases I'll do it myself, if it goes in the shop for a major job, I request a tour as I wanna see how they handle the machines, how clean its maintained, and who the wenches are, the ones behind the counter too.

Some of the things you mentioned above may seem like a big undertaking, particuarly if you are not accustom to wrenching on machines, but there is a wealthof knowledge here and at other strom sites that can help you save that hard erned dough for farkles instead. You may be very surprised as well to learn that many times you don't need special tools, and can use what you may already have.
 

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That sounds about right from what you listed for services performed. I just did the 60K Mile on my 2008 Tacoma, which they seemed to do actually less, and it cost almost 600 dollars...
 

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Valve check is a lot easier than valve adjustment -- I don't recall if my shop charged a flat fee, or whether the charge for checking and adjustment were separate.

Regardless, I don't think that's out of line at all, if they do good work and can be trusted. If they don't, no price is cheap enough. :(

But yeah, you're responsible for getting an estimate before they do the work, so that you're not surprised. Given all that they did, and considering that the shop that does mine now charges a few pennies shy of $100/hr (and is worth every bit of it when I need them), I don't think you were "robbed".
 

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Removing the plastic...3 panels, bottom, and sides before taking it in would help. Air cleaner, plugs, coolant, brake pads are pretty easy. I would shoot for those myself but with no experience I would look for some help. You don't want to cross thread a plug for example or break some plastic fuel hose connection. Stromtroopers in your area? Other motorcyclists? I don't see anything wrong though. Just like taking any vehicle in for it's periodic service. You are getting the miles out of your bike and taking good care of it. I think the important thing is you trust the place where you take it.
 

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K8 Wee with 30,000 miles. Took it in for the 15k(ish) mile service.
Replaced (4) plugs.
New coolant.
Throttle bodies adjusted.
Valve clearances checked/adjusted.
Air filter replaced.
Rear brake pads replaced.

Was I robbed?
It depends. Did they adjust one or more valves, or just check the valve lash? It depends on how many camshafts they had to remove out of the four possibilities. One on the front cylinder and one on the rear is more work than two on the front. ABS bikes are more work on the rear.

Is there a flat rate manual for our stroms? Did they charge the flat rate for each job? Draining the coolant and removing the radiator makes the spark plugs and front cylinder valve checks easier, so you should not be charged the full rate for each job. Taking the plastic and the tank off to change the air filter is exactly the same removals as the other work except the eight screws in the air box, so you should not be charged the full separate rates for each of these jobs.

I'd go back and ask their hourly labor rate and exactly how your bill was calculated. Check your state's motor vehicle repair laws and their agency (if any) for complaints about the billing of motor vehicle repairs.

Are there any maintenance get-together sessions in Denver or Boulder or anywhere near you? If one can be arranged, you might consider supplying the pizza or something and help organize one. You'll learn a lot and help each other get good work done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks all. Great comments/suggestions.

I did get a verbal quote when dropping the bike off knowing that I'd be hard pressed to leave there without getting the service, I like to keep up with the maintenance schedules since the Wee has been so reliable to date. He told me "$375 plus parts", so I thought (naively) that the parts would be in the $20-$50 range. DOH. The brakes added another $60 to the job and the other parts were about $140. So the work cost me about $150 more than I had budgeted. Live & learn.

So, one last question... Here are the pads they replaced. They told me I was very close to wearing them out. I was under the impression that brake pads should be replaced when they reach the same height as the center groove. Kind of like a wear bar on a tire. Should these pads have been replaced?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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That pad has lots of mileage left on it.
 

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They probably work on a "preventive maintenance" principle. Basically if they think there's significant chance of something failing or wearing out before the next major service, they replace it, or if they service schedules calls for replacement, they replace it, whether it really needs replacing or not. Of course they make more money that way as well as making the bike more reliable. You could certainly have gotten more wear out of the pads. Would they have made it to the next major service? I don't know.

The service manual calls for replacing the plugs every 7500 miles (or 2 years) for example. The air cleaner calls for replacement every 11,000 miles. The brake hoses should be replaced every 4 years and the brake fluid every two years. I doubt most owners doing their own service would replace things so soon and they would probably have no problems. The brake pads should be replaced when worn down to the groove limit or sooner if they seems to be contaminated with fluid/oil or show an unusual wear pattern. If they gave you the old pads (which they should have), you can ask them why they replaced them if they don't look very worn. Maybe they saw something that you didn't.

I'm very reluctant to let any shop work on any of my vehicles unless I have no other option. I'd far rather do it myself (a) to save money and (b) to make sure it's done right. There are some jobs on my car that I'm just not equiped to do, but the bike is a lot easier to work on.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I disagree. looks pretty worn to me.
The pad does not need to be replaced until the wear surface reaches the bottom of the groove. Pad wear is very slow. There is more usable pad left before the wear limit is reached than there is pad dedicated to handle the margin of safety. The pads are bonded, not riveted. No damage will occur until the steel backing plate contacts the rotors.
 

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I think that the same service on an F650GS would be over $1000.
 
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