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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed today that the bike is now really hard to push when in gear with the clutch pulled in, and i've found the shifting didn't "feel" right this year.

If I put the bike in N then I can move it around the garage no problem.

V-Tom had made posts about a similar problem his was having and it was the slave cylinder leaking.

Should I check anything first before taking it to the dealer for warranty? (I have the extended warranty which probably wont cover it anyways lol)

I believe there was a thread about "gunk" buildup in the sprocket area relating to the clutch.. could that cause this? I think I should clean it before taking it in just to increase the chances of warranty covering it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
regarding the slave cylinder it looks like suzuki has updated the part number?

23160-06G02 CYLINDER, CLUTCH RELEASE
23160-06G03 ! .

both are unavailable though, anyone know if there is a part i could replace to repair it? i'm thinking if i can fix it myself for under 100 bucks i'm not going to piss around with the dealer.
 

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Any chance you changed the clutch lever adjuster knob? I'd try turning the knob to 1 (I think 1 is the furthest out) and then try to pull it in and push the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
no but i'll try that out. I did a fresh oil change and I am going to take it apart and clean out the front sprocket area and see if that helps.
 

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did you use thicker oil when you changed it? makes a diference on my k4.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The new oil could also be promoting the sticktion of the plates. Did you change oil brand or such?
It was doing it before I changed the oil, that's why I changed it (along with it being due shortly anyways)

I called the local suzuki dealer (1 hour away) and I'd have to leave the bike for them to inspect it. The diagnostic charge is between 50-$100 bucks. If they determine its the cylinder, and it's covered under warranty then the repair is covered under warranty along with the part.

I can just buy the part for $106... They look really simple to change, so I think that's what I am going to do. I can do it myself and have the bike up and running again in the time it would take me to drive to the dealer and drop the bike off lol.
 

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It was doing it before I changed the oil, that's why I changed it (along with it being due shortly anyways)
I called the local suzuki dealer (1 hour away) and I'd have to leave the bike for them to inspect it. The diagnostic charge is between 50-$100 bucks. If they determine its the cylinder, and it's covered under warranty then the repair is covered under warranty along with the part.

I can just buy the part for $106... They look really simple to change, so I think that's what I am going to do. I can do it myself and have the bike up and running again in the time it would take me to drive to the dealer and drop the bike off lol.
If you do that then plan on reverse bleeding the slave, push fluid from there up into the master using a syringe.


Also make sure to get new banjo bolt gaskets. DAMHIK
 

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A bike with a cold engine is always hard to push with the bike in gear and clutch pulled in. What is the shifting issue you are having?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A bike with a cold engine is always hard to push with the bike in gear and clutch pulled in. What is the shifting issue you are having?
Not like this it's not..

The shifting issue is very rough it's like I all of a sudden don't know how to shift lol

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

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Is it hard to push in gear when the oil is hot?
Does the bike try to creep forward when running in gear with the clutch pulled?

Your description of the issue is too vague for me to help much. Sounds like the clutch may not be disengaging fully. Just throwing a slave cylinder at the problem may/may not work. Slave cylinders usually are leaking fluid when bad.
 

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Maybe you have other issues going on, but every bike I've had has been difficult if not impossible to move in gear with the clutch in (with the engine off). Even after a big push to break the clutch plates free, they are hard to push. I used to free the clutch plates on a Vulcan to keep it from clunking so bad when I first put it in gear. I don't usually notice it since I leave it neutral when I park in the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So the bike is fixed! I took it apart to inspect and it was VERY dirty. I couldn't even get the slave cylinder off, I had to use a couple screwdrivers to pry it off because it was packed full of gunk.

took me about an hour to get everything cleaned up put back together again and put new fluid in. It made a massive difference. V-Tom noted that this helped his as well but the problem returned quickly so hopefully mine wont!

Is it normal for the sprocket to be that rusted? bike only has 25k km on it!
 

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Well, done! good outcome :)
It seems this is a + to using ep90 as chain lube :) none of that super sticky gunk collecting in crooked fannys (nooks and crannys) ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is it hard to push in gear when the oil is hot?
Does the bike try to creep forward when running in gear with the clutch pulled?

Your description of the issue is too vague for me to help much. Sounds like the clutch may not be disengaging fully. Just throwing a slave cylinder at the problem may/may not work. Slave cylinders usually are leaking fluid when bad.
sorry missed this post.

Yes the bike would try to creep forward in gear, but it was intermittent. It was still hard to push when the oil was hot.

When they replaced V-Tom they said it was "leaking internally".

I think mine the "gunk" hardened well sitting all winter and that's what it made it so bad. I had a hell of a time cleaning it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Maybe you have other issues going on, but every bike I've had has been difficult if not impossible to move in gear with the clutch in (with the engine off). Even after a big push to break the clutch plates free, they are hard to push. I used to free the clutch plates on a Vulcan to keep it from clunking so bad when I first put it in gear. I don't usually notice it since I leave it neutral when I park in the garage.
this bike was always noticeably harder to move then in neutral but nothing like it was before I cleaned it out. I would literally have to lean in to the bike and push as hard as I could (with the engine at operating tempreture) to get it to budge.

After cleaning the gunk out I can now movie it easily again.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Well, done! good outcome :)
It seems this is a + to using ep90 as chain lube :) none of that super sticky gunk collecting in crooked fannys (nooks and crannys) ;)
What is EP90?

My plan is to switch to WD40. That's what I put on it after cleaning everything out.

For reference I was using Belray this time.

I am going to clean everything up every second oil change from now on as well as before storing it for the winter. I believe that's what made it so bad was sitting all winter without moving.
 

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Did you say you also replaced the clutch fluid? I wonder if you had air in the line that was evacuated when you bled the system after installing new fluid.
 

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HARD TO PUSH in Gear

I noticed today that the bike is now really hard to push when in gear with the clutch pulled in, and i've found the shifting didn't "feel" right this year.
If I put the bike in N then I can move it around the garage no problem.
I put my machine on the center stand to oil the chain. I put it in gear #1 and let the clutch out...chain and wheel started to turn..I oiled the chain as it rolled by but when I was done, I pulled in the clutch lever (still in 1st gear) and expected it to STOP TURNING..

Well, WRONG, even with the clutch pulled in all the way, the chain and wheel kept on turning. I thought THAT"S NOT SUPPOSED TO HAPPEN..It dawned on me that the clutch lever adjustment was wrong..it was still "pulling" with the clutch "IN".

I pulled out the OWNERS MANUAL, looked up Pg 6-28? and there was the procedure for adjusting the clutch lever..DONE, it doesnt TURN anymore when the clutch is pulled in. It rolls fine now IN GEAR but with the clutch pulled in.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I put my machine on the center stand to oil the chain. I put it in gear #1 and let the clutch out...chain and wheel started to turn..I oiled the chain as it rolled by but when I was done, I pulled in the clutch lever (still in 1st gear) and expected it to STOP TURNING..

Well, WRONG, even with the clutch pulled in all the way, the chain and wheel kept on turning. I thought THAT"S NOT SUPPOSED TO HAPPEN..It dawned on me that the clutch lever adjustment was wrong..it was still "pulling" with the clutch "IN".

I pulled out the OWNERS MANUAL, looked up Pg 6-28? and there was the procedure for adjusting the clutch lever..DONE, it doesnt TURN anymore when the clutch is pulled in. It rolls fine now IN GEAR but with the clutch pulled in.
Thank you but wrong bike, the 1000 is a hydraulic clutch that does not have any adjustment
 
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