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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if it is the bike, the tires, the grips or simply bad karma but I seem to have a bit more vibration on my '15 DL650 than I did on my '05. Before I go get a bar snake or something that actually costs money I thought I'd ask y'all what you have used to reduce bar vibration.

I already have a length of vinyl tubing and my thought was to load it with #4 or #6 shot then seal the ends with silicone seal creating my own bar snake, saving some $35 or so. Or I could fill it with 230 Gr. .45 ACP bullets for that matter.

So, what works best? And what doesn't work at all?
 

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I did that in fact filling mine with 9mm cast bullets.
It seemed to help but did not eliminate.
I could not get it to go through in one piece even using KY Jelly.
So I ended up cutting the tube in two and feeding each end in from the end.
I might add it's hard as hell finding shot anymore and usually it comes in 30 lb bags or better anymore.
They used to use a thing like a sieve that you poured molten lead through into water to make shot.
Might be worth trying first.
 

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What farkles do you have? I had big problems with handlebar vibrations after fitting crash bars.
I rode one handed while touching every part of the motorcycle to identify that the vibration was actually transmitted from the crash bars. I refitted, bent, refitted and bent them again to make the vibes moderate. I made it better but found that the issue fixed itself completely after many hot/cold cycles.
Anything that is mounted under stress (where the holes do not quite line up) can cause vibrations.
A tyre fault would more likely cause the bars to wiggle rather than just vibrate.
 

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I am going through this with me '15 ADV and this these things seemed have helped:
- great stuffed handle and crash bars
- loosen up crash bars, moved and installed/torqued correctly esp engine mount bolt
- put rubber at mounting points (handlebar, skid plate etc)
- moved exhaust away from skid plate bracket
- switched to synthetic oil
- picked gel gloves

The vibe is still there but it is much better. More importantly Great Stuff have seemed killed high frequency buzzing, so it is mostly primary now

Of course it is hard to say if it is good enough. As it was it wasn't a problem until 3hr+ saddle time. After 7-10hr it was in "I can't take it anymore" zone.

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I had a lot of problems with vibrations from the OEM crash bars. First tried a piece of bicycle inner tube between the joint at the front of the crash bars. Helped a little. I replaced the bicycle inner tube rubber with a thicker piece of automobile heater hose rubber and the problem went away. Now smooth at all rpms.
 

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I had a lot of problems with vibrations from the OEM crash bars. First tried a piece of bicycle inner tube between the joint at the front of the crash bars. Helped a little. I replaced the bicycle inner tube rubber with a thicker piece of automobile heater hose rubber and the problem went away. Now smooth at all rpms.
Gen2 already has rubber inserts there, about 2mm thick
 

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Baffled

I had sig problems with right hand numbness and resorted to a throttle lock, which helped. Recently used my Gordon's Heated gloves and found no numbness after many hours. Glove is deerskin, is very roomy inside with only a little insulation. All other gloves, inc. Tourmaster heated have lots of insulation and little room. Don't know what to think but I'll take it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have the Givi crash bars and, as a matter of fact, have to replace one of the isolation o-rings where the two sides bolt together. I don;t think that is the cause however. I'm going to try the tubing full of lead and see if that changes things.
 

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I tried different torque orders for my crash bar bolts. Found that almost all vibration is eliminated if they are tightened from front to back....full tight front bolt before moving back to next bolt.
 
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i bought some lead from a guy on craigslist.around 8 pounds for 10 bucks.i melted it in a pot and poured into the bar.i tried sand.bar snake,bar ends etc. before but it is by far best solution.
 
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