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I bought these for my 2018 wee strom and can't for the life of me find any slack for the throttle cables. I first tried installing them to my factory bike and even after pulling all the cables out of the hook clamps I couldn't get the bars into the risers. I then lowered the front fork 3/4" to match my rear lowering links and with that extra slack I was able to get the bars into the risers and at a comfortable position. But turning the bars left tightens up the throttle cables so much that I have 0 throttle control. There is absolutely no room to slack the throttle cables so I'm really curious how anyone with a 2017-18 is making this work. My cables are pulled really tight right at the clamp above the radiator, at the top of the triple tree and also at the handguard. I can't figure out where to get the extra inch of slack I need to make these work.

Edit: Was able to get some slack by removing the cables from the grip housing and routing them down the back side of the triple tree. Had to zip tie them to the existing electrical lines clamped there to keep the cables from rubbing the fairing, but all is well after a 50 mile test ride. No binding in steep turns and no getting pinched anywhere with slack to spare.
 

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I bought these for my 2018 wee strom and can't for the life of me find any slack for the throttle cables. I first tried installing them to my factory bike and even after pulling all the cables out of the hook clamps I couldn't get the bars into the risers. I then lowered the front fork 3/4" to match my rear lowering links and with that extra slack I was able to get the bars into the risers and at a comfortable position. But turning the bars left tightens up the throttle cables so much that I have 0 throttle control. There is absolutely no room to slack the throttle cables so I'm really curious how anyone with a 2017-18 is making this work. My cables are pulled really tight right at the clamp above the radiator, at the top of the triple tree and also at the handguard. I can't figure out where to get the extra inch of slack I need to make these work.

Edit: Was able to get some slack by removing the cables from the grip housing and routing them down the back side of the triple tree. Had to zip tie them to the existing electrical lines clamped there to keep the cables from rubbing the fairing, but all is well after a 50 mile test ride. No binding in steep turns and no getting pinched anywhere with slack to spare.
I just spent an hour fiddling with the routing of the various cables, and came to the same place of "well shit, I'm going to have to disassemble the throttle body, aren't I?"

I wonder how much variation there is between 2017/2018 models, individual bikes themselves, or simply personal tolerances to cable slack that are causing some people to have zero problems and others of us to struggle to make this work.
 

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Yeah it was a big pia rerouting those cables but worth it for the comfort. I need to get a longer front brake line but I don't want to deal with having to bleed them myself. Might get the dealership to take care of that when the bike goes in for it's first service.
 

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I put on a set of 1" risers and that process went just fine. But I'm not quite satisfied with the result. I'm thinking about removing the risers and going to a different set of handlebars that offers more rise and a little less pullback. I have longer arms so I can stand the increase reach. Based on the specifications, I'm considering a mid rise atv bend like the Pro Taper ES series (still a full 7/8 bar). That should get me close to 2" above stock but the controls will be a little farther forward too. So I think the looms and cables should reach. Anyone tried this approach?
 

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2017 Wee, I put on the Zeta risers, 26mm higher, 20mm offset. Had to remove the three zip ties on left cables/wires and replace with only two zip ties after install. Right side, removed two zip ties, pulled brake hose out of top holder and zip tied it to right fork leg between upper and lower fork plates (or whatever you call the large brackets the fork tubes are fastened to). That lower zip tie on the right of frame gained me at least 1/2 inch for the electrical cables. Put two zip ties back on after install, allowing for the new cable positions. Not much more room for anymore rise or offset, but nothing is too tight and binding. I took some pics I can post if needed.
 

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https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072QZV5FK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought these off amazon that look the same but now after seeing the post here of them snapping off am nervous to use them. I also see in the reviews someone posted about them breaking and causing a crash! it says they are cnc machined, but I think for piece of mind i'll just send them back! wish the rox were not so expensive in Canada!
CNC does not ensure the product is safe nor does it indicate that it came from a billet of extruded aluminum. 6061 T6 aluminum can be cast. The claim that the material is 6061 T6 aluminum may not be true.

I have found over the years working in the nondestructive inspection (NDT-NDE) field that material from China may or may not be what is claimed. Perhaps those who have bought the Chinese variety could shop around for a NDT inspection company and ask them if they have a positive material identification (PMI) instrument to determine if the material is in fact 6061. Also design has a lot to do with how well a part will withstand stress. Stress 'risers', usually where there are sharp transitions, can lead to failure over time. A NDT shop can also test to see if there are any inherent non-visual defects, cracks/porosity/tears, on the surface using a liquid penetrant inspection (LPI) method. Radiography can find inherent internal defects. New extruded bar stock material is not a guarantee that there are no internal or external defects. With the right inspection materials anyone following instructions can perform their own LPI. It's a quick and easy test.

I've witnessed too many false claims and poor materials produced in China and exported to North America. There are some pipefitters who will not use any piping materials from China given the number of times they have experienced poor quality and failures, a result of poor quality control and in house inspection or just lack of care for the safety of others.

Dropping your bike onto its handlebars can also lead to failure of any manufacturers bar risers. Visually check any area of your risers where there are sharp transitions, around the bolt holes and where they are attached if your are concerned about your risers or just replace them. Bolts for sure should be replaced after a hard drop but you might as well replace the entire riser if you're going to replace the bolts.
 

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CNC does not ensure the product is safe nor does it indicate that it came from a billet of extruded aluminum. 6061 T6 aluminum can be cast. The claim that the material is 6061 T6 aluminum may not be true.

I have found over the years working in the nondestructive inspection (NDT-NDE) field that material from China may or may not be what is claimed. Perhaps those who have bought the Chinese variety could shop around for a NDT inspection company and ask them if they have a positive material identification (PMI) instrument to determine if the material is in fact 6061. Also design has a lot to do with how well a part will withstand stress. Stress 'risers', usually where there are sharp transitions, can lead to failure over time. A NDT shop can also test to see if there are any inherent non-visual defects, cracks/porosity/tears, on the surface using a liquid penetrant inspection (LPI) method. Radiography can find inherent internal defects. New extruded bar stock material is not a guarantee that there are no internal or external defects. With the right inspection materials anyone following instructions can perform their own LPI. It's a quick and easy test.

I've witnessed too many false claims and poor materials produced in China and exported to North America. There are some pipefitters who will not use any piping materials from China given the number of times they have experienced poor quality and failures, a result of poor quality control and in house inspection or just lack of care for the safety of others.

Dropping your bike onto its handlebars can also lead to failure of any manufacturers bar risers. Visually check any area of your risers where there are sharp transitions, around the bolt holes and where they are attached if your are concerned about your risers or just replace them. Bolts for sure should be replaced after a hard drop but you might as well replace the entire riser if you're going to replace the bolts.
Thank you for the info, I sent mine back long ago though. Not worth risking my life to save a few bucks. I wound up going with bike master risers, they are just straight up, they do not pivot so very little chance of failure. If you read the reviews on that link I posted you can see all of the horror stories. They are breaking from normal use, maybe hitting a big bump and now your handlebars are no longer attached!
 

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Ok I seem to be confused as to the final word on rises. I have new 2020 650XT and miss the height I had on my previous bike (KLR650) with pivoting rises. As the bike is new I dont want to void any warranty by re routing cables so my question is does any have any info as to what I can add to the bike to bring the bars back and up a bit, without changing any cables?
Links of products would be very helpful.
P.S. The other thing I have been telling myself is just get used to the bike the way it is and after many months of riding look at changing the height if I havent adjusted.
 

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We have the brake +2" top line you need so you don't have to pay for a complete new brake line set. +2" line solutions for all models.

Again just one of the problems with buying knock offs is you don't know what alloy they are using. And if you are making knock offs you want them to be cheaper to get people to buy them. And the proper alloys cost considerably more than the cheap weak stuff.

and I'm still struggling with the quote function.
 

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i always wonder how can i tell if i need risers or not, i ride a 2018 650, i'm 5.9, i did install a footpeg lowering kit as my knees hurt on long rides. but not sure if i need risers.
 

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All,
I decided to try adding modest risers to my 2017 V 650. I purchased Zeta risers at Daytona, where I bought my bike. They confirmed these risers would work without changing cables. These are very close to an inch up and about 3/4" back. I pried off the little plastic caps, and they are fragile. Not a big deal. The original bolts came off fairly easily, with a 5mm ( I think) allen key socket on a 10" (?) socket handle. Actually, once the front bolt was loosened, the rear on one side seemed loose already. Probably just the clamping effect. I marked the bars with a felt pen at the clamp joint so I could reinstall as originally mounted if necessary. The Zeta parts seem good and installed easily. I was about 35 ft/ lbs into the yoke and 25 ft/ lbs for the clamp bolts holding the bars.

Edited to add that I think my experience echos that of @Smitty62, several posts above. Forgot to say this earlier.

I mounted the bars with the felt pen mark aligned with the clamp joint, so the angle/ position of the bars is as per original. Cables do not seem to be a problem but the wires to the left handle bar are tight. I cut some ties, and slid some others 'down' to get a bit more slack. On the right side, I just used my hand to bend one of the wire guides a bit to allow for more room. Pivoting the bars in the clamp can also make quite a difference to wires. I had the left grip wires 'paired' with the clutch cable, and I put that under the bark buster attachment, simply by removing the clamp screw from the Barkbuster attachment. That also seems to help. The left side wires are a bit of an issue, sort of. When turning to the right they sometimes get trapped under the fork clamp at the top of the forks, or whatever that is. I will try and zip tie it so that it stays free, or add some other guide to keep it clear.

I haven't ridden the bike yet, but the change just sitting on the bike seems excellent. I think it will be better standing up as well. I'll certainly take things slowly at first and give them a good vigorous static test before riding.

Some pics attached and I hope they help. Any advice or observations welcome. Sorry for the pic-heavy post, but I try to post the info that I'd like to find. Being slow and nervous, I like step-by-step instructions. I'll report back on the riding once I get out.

Risers in the package
270362



Factory clamp off, and original position marks on bar. Note clutch cable and left side wire cluster are zipped together from factory.

270363



First factory zip tie I cut
270364



Looking down on the left side, I slid this factory tie farther down the wires, which helped a bit.
270365



Looking up, under the beak, on the right side (throttle), I bent this wire guide a bit in towards the centre line of the bike, to the right in this photo
270366




This is the left wire cluster re routed under the bark buster attachment clamp. So its not held to the clutch cable.

270367



This is it reassembled. Mark lined up at clamp joint as per original position.

270368




Reassembled with the RAM mount seen from the seat. Note here that neither the clutch cable or that wire group are currently routed through the wire guide. I'm going to fuss with this a bit more when my hands thaw out.
270369
 
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This is the first we’ve heard of cables being too tight on the 2018. Is the rest of your bar setup 100% factory? On some bikes it can help to run the cables behind or outside of the triple tree itself. That generally just a matter of putting the bike on the center stand, dropping the fork tubes on each side, bringing the cables out, and then raising the fork tubes back up.
I tried to install the 2" Rox risers on my wife's 2018 , The two inch plus cable wasn't long enough no matter how we tried with the Galfer instructions., I ended up getting a 3.5" plus cable from Drag Specialties.
 

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I bought these for my 2018 wee strom and can't for the life of me find any slack for the throttle cables. I first tried installing them to my factory bike and even after pulling all the cables out of the hook clamps I couldn't get the bars into the risers. I then lowered the front fork 3/4" to match my rear lowering links and with that extra slack I was able to get the bars into the risers and at a comfortable position. But turning the bars left tightens up the throttle cables so much that I have 0 throttle control. There is absolutely no room to slack the throttle cables so I'm really curious how anyone with a 2017-18 is making this work. My cables are pulled really tight right at the clamp above the radiator, at the top of the triple tree and also at the handguard. I can't figure out where to get the extra inch of slack I need to make these work.

Edit: Was able to get some slack by removing the cables from the grip housing and routing them down the back side of the triple tree. Had to zip tie them to the existing electrical lines clamped there to keep the cables from rubbing the fairing, but all is well after a 50 mile test ride. No binding in steep turns and no getting pinched anywhere with slack to spare.
I used a different clamp for my brake line. Probably freed up an inch and a half.
 

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HI Nicad,
I have same but 2019
Were you happy with the bar risers from Turkey.
I am thinking of doing the same.
Did the existing cables work out.
They sent the wrong risers initially, but quickly cleared it up , told me to keep the wrong ones and sent me a replacement right away. I see no quality concerns with these. Perhaps in a wipeout , they could break, but the material looks well machined. feels nice, the bolts it came with seem fine. As for brake hoses, to get enough clearance that made me sure nothing was being stressed, I substituted the mounting bracket at the bottom of the triple clamps for an automotive hose mounting bracket with a rubber center. I'll try to take a photo. That gave me plenty of slack.
 

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My bike is a 2019 xt touring. I installed a one inch up and about one inch back riser that I purchased from amazon.
The wires and cables do seem to be just fine without any loosening of the cables or wires. And yes did help with my back...
 

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My bike is a 2019 xt touring. I installed a one inch up and about one inch back riser that I purchased from amazon.
The wires and cables do seem to be just fine without any loosening of the cables or wires. And yes did help with my back...
Do you have an Amazon link to the ones you bought? I also have a 2019 xt touring and need to fit a set of risers to help with my upper back pain.
 

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I dont have a link (don't know how to do that); but there are SFS handlebar riser setback. They were 37.50 and black in color.
 
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