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Discussion Starter #1
I will be posting this over at the 2014 to 2016 forum as well since I assume it's the same.

Advice:

1) Turn handlebar to the left. That's it. Access is then pretty easy. Unclip the electrical connection and then rotate the bulb and it pops right out. You can do this standing beside the bike (on the rider's left) or kneeling in front of the headlight and reaching back and under. I didn't remove the runner protector like the manual says but it popped right out. It takes less than a minute. PS beam remained at about the same height and did not require any adjustment for height.
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Now questions:

1) When I removed the H9 high beam, the high beam indicator light came on at a bout 1/3 power even though key was off. i am assuming this is some sort of warning regarding a burnt out light. Problem is that when I installed the LED H9 and hooked it up — yes the right polarity because it's working — the high beam indicator light is still 1/3 brightness even with key off. The indicator does go full brightness when the keys is on and the high beam is actuated. H9 is a GTR CSP Mini rated at 16 watts which is fairly low amperage. Maybe the ECU is still registering it as broken or damaged? Anyone have any thoughts?

2) The other funny thing is the the LED I put in doesn't have any stop detent — or a large enough stop detent to stop the bulb from rotating. Oh, it has the three ears that require aligning, but, unlike the stock bulb that can't be rotated past a certain point because one its ears hits a stopper of some kind, the LED just keeps rotation. Right now I think it's got enough tension to remain in place, but I wonder if anyone else has had this issue.

Thanks so much.
 

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I haven't come across either issue. (maybe your gen of DL1000 has more sophisticated electronics?). My H9 led went in easily and fit properly.:|Are you sure the bulb is the right one?:| The base should match the halogen base.:| @Webfors has the same gen bike as yours maybe he will have some insights?

..Tom
 

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I suspect it's a lack of resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
actually the opposite issue i suspect, its only 16 watts so the amperage is about 1.2 a.

a 55 watt bult would need about 4.5 amps.

but yes i think its the differing resistance
 

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I did the same mod, no issues with the high beam LED. So I think your problem may lie elsewhere.

Make sure the bulb is seated properly, make sure the earth line to the connector hasn't popped out the back.
 

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Usually those things come in pairs. Have you tried putting the other one in ?.

I agree low enough current might trip some sort of alarm circuit but it seems odd that some work just fine and yours doesn't. If it were a CANBUS BMW I'd be more surprised if it worked for anyone, but Suzuki generally doesn't do overly clever with critical circuits.
 

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I used zDatt H9 with no issues on '14 and '18 models. And the bulb does stop the rotation just like halogen one. I guess the LED bulb you've got is the problem on both issues you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Dear All

am a little — I emphasize little — closer to resolution. My denali driving lights are powered by a neutrino smart fuse box. It appears it's acting like a CANBUS and not happy about the higher resistance of the LED headlight bulb. As soon as I disconnect the trigger wire — running from the positive of the high beam back to the trigger relay in the Neutrino — the phantom high beam indicator light disappears. Now whether the problem can be solved by a simple "recorder"/resistor, I'll need to talk to an expert about.

Thanks

David
 

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The other funny thing is the the LED I put in doesn't have any stop detent — or a large enough stop detent to stop the bulb from rotating. Oh, it has the three ears that require aligning, but, unlike the stock bulb that can't be rotated past a certain point because one its ears hits a stopper of some kind, the LED just keeps rotation. Right now I think it's got enough tension to remain in place, but I wonder if anyone else has had this issue.

Thanks so much.
The stops are molded into the reflector housing. When the bulb is installed, the three tabs on the bulb base rotate until they contact the stops. If your bulb will rotate freely, there are two possible reasons:
1) Wrong bulb. Some bases look nearly identical, but differ slightly in diameter and/or distance between the tab ring and grommet (rubber washer thingy). By design, the tab ring on mine (Super Nova) will rotate around the bulb housing so that it can be properly aligned with the reflector. Once I had it set so that the LED tower would be perfectly vertical relative to the reflector, I put some JB Weld Extreme Temperature on it and let it set overnight. The bulb's base covers H8,H9,H10,H11, hence the adjustable tab ring.
2) One of the tabs on the bulb may not have seated in the reflector housing. That might misalign the bulb enough to not contact the stops inside the housing. Examine both the original halogen and the LED. Confirm that the LEDs' orientation relative to the tabs on the base are exactly the same alignment and distance as the halogen's filament.
The reflector in any headlight is designed around the filament or led array for optimum light pattern. If either type of bulb protrudes into the reflector too far or not far enough, or is turned off of the vertical plane, the beam will not be optimal.
As far as the hi beam indicator, I agree that the lower power of the led bulb is causing the it to glow faintly. My Super Nova's are rated at 36w, and produce a retina-vaporizing 4000 lumens each!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the input. Yes, checked points one and two and I suspect muy flange with the three stabs is just slightly thinner than needed. It too is a combo H8/H9/H11. The good news is that the rubber gasket is quite strong and so it takes a little effort to move the bulb around. I am going to try it as is. The CSP Mini uses an allen key to loosen the led post so no glue needed.

Beam pattern is very very good with the GTRs. Impressed I am. It required no height adjustment.

Talked to neutrino engineer. hje thinks it may be some trace reverse current from the computerized fuse box. I am going to try a diode on the trigger line and see if that cures the issue

again thanks for feedback
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I believe the problem is solved. tested a diode into my Neutrino's "relay" port — it's hooked up to the high beam as the trigger ti turn my denali D4s to full intensity — and the ghost of a high beam indicator light is gone. Everything as It should be again. Have to build it into my wiring now, but i think the heavy lifting is done

thanks all
 
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