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Discussion Starter #1
I'd just removed the fuel tank to route some wires when my 3S H7 LED arrived in the mail. I figured I might as well toss it in while I've got the bike half torn apart :)

Now that I have it installed, there are two things that are concerning; Firstly, the Vee2 headlight housing uses a plastic dust "cap." It locks into place with a 1/3rd turn and completely seals the headlight, including the connector. Other bikes use a rubber boot which the bulb passes through.

With this LED, there's no way to reinstall the plastic cap. The small harness exiting the LED prevents the cap from seating. I could seemingly cut a notch in the cap, but I'm not sure I want to. Also, while the bulb could theoretically fit under the dust cap (if it were notched), using the cap would likely prevent good airflow over the LED's heat sink. That doesn't seem smart.

The second issue is that the LED H7 is shielded, meaning the emitters are on only one side with a shield on the other. The regular H7 bulb emits light in all directions. I have the bulb installed with the emitters facing down, which makes the most sense to me. But I'm not sure.

So two questions. What are your thoughts on running the bulb without the dust cap? And which way do you think the emitters should face; up or down?

Tipsy

Bulb harness prevents dust cap from seating


Shield on the top half of the LED H7


Better depiction of the one-sided emitters
 

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phatguy in Cbus
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If that's a cooling fan base, you wouldn't want the cover on there. What is the sight pattern like with all three led emitters on the same side?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
If that's a cooling fan base, you wouldn't want the cover on there. What is the sight pattern like with all three led emitters on the same side?
It's not a cooling fan. It's a fanless heatsink. In either case, I would think airflow is important.

With regard to the sight pattern, I have the bike in pieces (fuel tank/airbox removed, etc.) so I don't think it's wise to put power on the bike.

Tipsy
 

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I'm interested in this.............no knowledge to add, but waiting for those that do!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm interested in this.............no knowledge to add, but waiting for those that do!
I decided to shelve it for the time being. Even though I can't test it right now (the tank is off while I do some farkling) it seems clear that having the emitters on only one side of the bulb is not ideal when you consider the stock halogen throws light in all directions.

Also - this will seemingly be the case for any LED bulb - the Vee2 uses a hard plastic dust cap on the low beam to seal the headlight vs. a rubber pass-through boot. Refitting the dust cap is problematic because (1) the wire exiting the LED bulb prevents the cap from seating without modification to the cap and (2) refitting the dust cap would significantly restrict/eliminate air circulation to the LED's heat sink.

Tipsy
 

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Led facing down. Cap has to be fastened or you'll be changing the whole thing in a month due to dust in the entire optic artifact. Remember that static atracts dust too, the seal is there for a reason.


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Led facing down. Cap has to be fastened or you'll be changing the whole thing in a month due to dust in the entire optic artifact. Remember that static atracts dust too, the seal is there for a reason.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you saying he has it in upside down?
 

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It's not a cooling fan. It's a fanless heatsink. I have the bike in pieces (fuel tank/airbox removed, etc.) so I don't think it's wise to put power on the bike.

Tipsy
Probably no positive help, but on my Wee1, I've run it up to temp with no gauge console connected at all, air box on the bench, fuel tank hanging, with no issues at all.
And, with the size of that heat sink, any restriction at all to air flow, I believe you will be back in there shortly.
YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
And, with the size of that heat sink, any restriction at all to air flow, I believe you will be back in there shortly.
YMMV.
I agree. I don't think it's a good idea to run the bike without the dust cover. Nor do I think it's a good idea to restrict airflow to the heat sink.

The single sided LED really has become a secondary concern, given the dust cover scenario. So as I indicated earlier, I've decided not to install the LED for the time being.

Tipsy
 

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I agree. I don't think it's a good idea to run the bike without the dust cover. Nor do I think it's a good idea to restrict airflow to the heat sink.



The single sided LED really has become a secondary concern, given the dust cover scenario. So as I indicated earlier, I've decided not to install the LED for the time being.



Tipsy

I installed the LED headlight bulbs on my V2 and removed the dust covers. There is no issues whatsoever. I was also unsure about it then I believe it may have been a rep from Cyclops said that it's fine and I went ahead and no issues at all. Just do it and you'll be happy with the results.


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Discussion Starter #11
I installed the LED headlight bulbs on my V2 and removed the dust covers. There is no issues whatsoever.
With due respect, you installed your LED in mid October - about three months ago. That's hardly much time to see what potential ill effects could arise from eliminating the dust cap. Fall and Winter in NJ aren't very humid. How much heavy rain have you ridden through since removing the cap? How many miles of dusty dirt road?

I'm not a smoker. I can smoke a pack of cigarettes today and proclaim, "don't listen to all of those people warning about cancer. I just smoked a pack of cigarettes and I have no cancer whatsoever!"

I'm not saying that removing the dust cap will definitely cause problems (if anything, moisture and dirt in the headlight housing). I'm just saying that three months of off season riding is hardly an adequate control sample.

Tipsy
 

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I think this may be worth discussing on this thread with regard to upgraded lights and the dust cover. I talked to the owner of ADVMonster this week about auxiliary LED lights and he was telling me about the new H7 R3 LED Headlight replacement. It throws 4800 lumens and draws little power.

I am not going that route. The Aux lights will throw plenty of power for me and honestly I have other projects I would do first BUT it looks like it may be an option for some. He said that they provide a grommet for the cover pass through.

PLEASE check with him, since I wasn't very interested I may not have captured all of the details, but it may help some of you guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think this may be worth discussing on this thread with regard to upgraded lights and the dust cover. I talked to the owner of ADVMonster this week about auxiliary LED lights and he was telling me about the new H7 R3 LED Headlight replacement. It throws 4800 lumens and draws little power.
...
He said that they provide a grommet for the cover pass through.
Here is the ADVMonster LED R3 H7. I see the grommet. It looks like the braided heat sink would protrude through the grommet to remain in clean air.

But it's questionable whether that grommet would seat properly in the Vee2's headlight housing. I just removed the plastic dust cap and there is a lip that the grommet could seemingly grab, but the dimensions of the grommet would have to be spot-on.

It's an option worth looking into. I wonder how effective those braided heat sinks are vs. a cooling fan (which are subject to failure) vs. a shaped aluminum heat sink, pictured earlier in this thread?

Tipsy
 

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Not an expert but I think you have it upside down. In low beam a light usually uses the top half of your light and on High it use the whole thing. I would check that. Look at your old bulb the shield is shielding the lower half of the filament. high is out front.
 

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I'm not an electrical engineer, but have done electronics engineering as a profession in the past. Heat sinks work very well, the more surface area the better they are. Of course airflow (by fan or any other means) makes this more efficient. In my experience I didn't have to move much air to increase efficiency.

Here is the ADVMonster LED R3 H7. I see the grommet. It looks like the braided heat sink would protrude through the grommet to remain in clean air.

But it's questionable whether that grommet would seat properly in the Vee2's headlight housing. I just removed the plastic dust cap and there is a lip that the grommet could seemingly grab, but the dimensions of the grommet would have to be spot-on.

It's an option worth looking into. I wonder how effective those braided heat sinks are vs. a cooling fan (which are subject to failure) vs. a shaped aluminum heat sink, pictured earlier in this thread?

Tipsy
 
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