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Discussion Starter #1
5k miles age i replaced chain, sprockets and sprocket carrier bearing because of some pretty bad side to side wobble in rwear sprocket. I notice when i reintalled the rear axle that it was very very hard to get back in, even with alot of greese. My wheel runs true and the brake rotoe runs true as well. The only thing im thinking it coyuld be is the wheel bearings. Even on the brake side, the bearing/rubber seal wobbles. Is this just bad wheel bearings or a bent axle or both. Im 3 weks away from a 10 day 5 state ride. I spent $200 on quality chain and sprockets 3 months ago and now they're trash. Im losing confidence in the bikes ": toughness" very very quickly. Any ideas Greywiolf>
 

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I'm not a Greywolf, but I play one on T.V.

For fast relief of hemmoroidal burning and itching, I recommend "Anu-Sol X!" But, "Anu-Sol X" is also great for wobbly wheels and hard to insert rear axles. Apply "Anu-Sol X" liberally to the axle and wheel sphincters, and feel instant relief as the axle glides into place.

Having said that, have you checked the axle to see if it's true? I use a glass desk cover for stuff like that, you can roll the axle with the big end off the edge of the glass and see if it's bent.

There's no need to doubt your bike over this, perhaps the axle was overtorqued and that hosed it and/or the bearings up.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Check the axle as described. See if the sprocket carrier falls out of the hub on its own when turning the wheel assembly sprocket side down. If it does, shim or replace the cush rubbers. See that the spacer between the sprocket carrier and the left wheel bearing is present and in the right attitude. That spacer is pictured on the right and the wider bottom end fits against the sprocket carrier bearing. The narrower top end fits against the wheel bearing. Since something is wrong, I'd replace the wheel bearings if I were you. Make sure there is a spacer between them. Seat the left wheel bearing first when installing them. There are other people here who are very good at this stuff you know.

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Sorry to bother you Wolf. I recently replaced the sprocket hub bearing and shimmed cush drives with inner tube. I know my axle is bent, and that combined with 60k miles of gravel,dirt,sand and mud has demolished the wheel bearings. I will have to R&R sprocket hub bearing again also. I was able to locate new OEM axle for $70.00 @ PartShark.com. Im hesitant about buying a used axle. Thanks Wolf.

--I have located All Balls brand wheel bearings through Amazon (as you suggested some time ago) but not the spacer that rides between the wheel bearings. I assume the spacer will have to be purchased through an OEM supplier({PartShark)? ONE more questions for you guys: Should I get these bearings pressed in or will a mallet and a wood dowel work i.e. How hard is it to remove the old an install the new bearings. The last thing i want to do is screw something else up by using too much force.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I don't remember recommending All Balls bearings. They are Chinese and I prefer Japanese, American or European made bearings. Chinese bearings may be good or bad and I've heard people praise the All Balls brand so they may be fine but I'm not certain. I got Japanese made SKF bearings from Amazon. The old inner spacer should be fine. It is a little larger than the axle.

Bearing installation is often done with a hammer and a properly sized socket. I bought an inexpensive bearing tool set. Wood won't work.

There are plenty of descriptions of bearing removal and installation on the Internet, both text and video.
 

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I would not use the All Balls bearings for anything. Cheap Chinese Manufactured Junk. Avoid Russian manufactured bearings as well.

You can get your bearings locally at any bearing supplier.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The bearing rides on its outer surface in the hub. When you install the new bearing, you want to push against the edge of that outer surface, the edge of the outer race, and no other part. Do not push against the inner race nor against the seal. You can find something the same diameter as the outer race---a large socket or a pipe nipple or anything that presses only on the outer race. Be absolutely sure that you press it in straight. Don't start crooked, get it stuck cocked, and have to remove it. You might damage both the hub and the bearing. Clean the hub. If the bore in the hub isn't tight enough, you really need a new hub, but try some of the special Loctite bearing and sleeve retainer compound (and the similar product from Permatex). Tapping it in with a hammer is OK if you have the cylinder of the right size on the outer race and get the bearing straight into the bore.

I prefer top quality industrial bearings with double seals (-2RS suffix indicates resilient contact seals on both sides of the bearing--some bearing makers use a different designation). All Balls seems to have a good reputation. There is some good Chinese stuff, and much junk, and All Balls seems to pick up the good ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the info. I found a GREAT place online to buy wheel bearings for our Stroms. VXB.com 62/32-2rs...$14.95, (2) 6204-2RS $2.77. Great prices made in U.S.A.
 
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