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Getting a new tire put on my Wee, so I pulled the rear wheel off myself to save a few dollars with labor cost. I cleaned everything up real good while everything was off the bike and easily accessible, but in the process I wiped away some "dirty grease" that had grime/dirt in it. I'd like to replace this grease but don't know exactly what type to get. Will regular "general purpose" grease work? I've seen Lithium, Hi-Pressure, Hi-Temp, waterproof, Petroleum, etc... All different kinds and I want to make sure I get the right one for this purpose.

Any suggestions? I'll look back through the Owners Manual and search this site again, but please chime in with what will work best for all those rear tire moving parts.
 

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The only things that need grease on the rear wheel & axle are good grease in the bearings if they are open (or sealed-one-side) bearings and anything slippery on the axle shaft so it'll come out easy next time.

The Bel-Ray waterproof aluminum complex grease is a great choice. Not quite as good are the usual lithium or lithium complex greases. Grease of #2 consistency rated GC (for wheel bearings) and LB (for chassis) is good.

Grease is a combination of thickener, oil, and additives. The thickener (base), kind'a like a chemical sponge that holds oil in its pores, is the key to waterproofness and compatibility with other thickeners. Lithium and lithium complex bases are the most common, good water resistance, and compatible with most other bases. Aluminum complex base has excellent water resistance and is compatible with lithium & lithium complex. Incompatible greases when mixed result in a black mess that does not protect the parts.

The oil held by the thickener can be conventional or synthetic or a blend with the usual characteristics.

Additives are added for extreme pressure, anticorrosion, tackiness, antioxidation, dye, etc. Teflon bits in grease are good, as are graphite and moly in the right applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
StromTech, you are correct, no grease near the rear end, I agree. This is simply the grease that lightly coats the bearing cups and axle. It is only a small amount, but I cleaned it up and want to replace it before the rear tire goes back on.
 

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Don't know if it's the right stuff or not but I have a lifetime supply of this and use it for anything I feel needs grease, and maybe a few things that don't.

I know this probably doesn't help, but hey it's is a grease thread!

Oh yeah, I force new grease into the sprocket carrier bearing at every tire change.
 

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The axle doesn't spin, so the grease isn't really needed for that. What a light coating of grease does is make the axle easier to slip out the next time you get it. It'll also protect it against corrosion.

Whatever you have on hand will work. The BelRay waterproof grease is good to have and will come in handy when you need to repack the wheel bearings. It's what I would use.
 

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Don't know if it's the right stuff or not but I have a lifetime supply of this and use it for anything I feel needs grease, and maybe a few things that don't.
I know this probably doesn't help, but hey it's is a grease thread!
Oh yeah, I force new grease into the sprocket carrier bearing at every tire change.
It's interesting to note that the Mobil grease won't play well with the Bel-Ray grease.

"Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease is an extremely stable grease compatible with all other greases, except clay base grease,"
 

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What Kinda Bike Is That?
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If your just talking about a little grease on the axle as it all goes back together this is what I use,

Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease - Scooter - Motorcycle Superstore

The bearings are sealed, you can't get to them. Really not much there to grease.
I can tell you for sure, that on 2007 DL-650 bikes, bearings are NOT sealed. My guess is, that is true for the other years as well.

I have replaced my wheel bearings with sealed wheel bearings.

I can also tell you that if you do not lightly grease up the Sprocket Drum Retainer, (Usually #8 in schematic diagrams), it will "freeze" to the Sprocket Carrier, (Usually #5 in schematic diagrams).
 

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I can tell you for sure, that on 2007 DL-650 bikes, bearings are NOT sealed. My guess is, that is true for the other years as well.
On my '07 ABS model, the front wheel bearings came sealed.

I don't recall if the rears were sealed or not, but mine are now.
 

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It's interesting to note that the Mobil grease won't play well with the Bel-Ray grease.

"Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease is an extremely stable grease compatible with all other greases, except clay base grease,"
That is interesting. I wonder if any of the oem grease is the type not compatible with mobile. Hmmm.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I can tell you for sure, that on 2007 DL-650 bikes, bearings are NOT sealed. My guess is, that is true for the other years as well.

I have replaced my wheel bearings with sealed wheel bearings.

I can also tell you that if you do not lightly grease up the Sprocket Drum Retainer, (Usually #8 in schematic diagrams), it will "freeze" to the Sprocket Carrier, (Usually #5 in schematic diagrams).
Would that be #5 and #10 here? OEM seals are indeed separate from the bearings. #19 and #17 show the seals in this diagram for example. Some bearings may have a seal on one side but none are sealed on both.
 

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I use marine grease because, well, that's what I've got. I am paranoid about bearings since a friend dumped his Triumph triple many years ago because the front wheel bearings went dry. A dry bearing is a very unhappy mechanism.

Historically, I've ridden old bikes until they aren't worth fixing. Mostly Hondas, but also a Yammy and now a Suzuki (my first new bike in a long, long time). I've never seen a bearing that wore significantly when there was even a little grease in it. Also, I've never seen a sealed or unsealed bearing that I couldn't get grease into without damaging the seals. I don't recommend everything I do. Sometimes I have to cut pennies in half before I pinch them.

I would recommend bearing repack or new bearing at least every 50K miles or two years. Half that time/miles if you tend to get the axle below water. A bad wheel bearing in a car is a nuisance. A bad wheel bearing in a bike is a hazard.
 

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That is interesting. I wonder if any of the oem grease is the type not compatible with mobile. Hmmm.
The clay-based grease from Mobil or any other maker is incompatible with just about all other grease bases. We don't know the type of grease used by Suzuki.

Lubricants USA - Grease Compatibility Chart

By the way, Mobile is a city in Alabama. Mobil is one of the brands of Exxon Mobil Corp., makers of dozens of types of greases some of which will do a fine job in our motorcycles' bearings.
 

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I notice that #18 on the sprocket side appears to be sealed on the outside. If all the bearings are open on at least one side, does this mean the inside of that bearing seals against a shoulder inside the wheel hub?
 

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The clay-based grease from Mobil or any other maker is incompatible with just about all other grease bases. We don't know the type of grease used by Suzuki.

Lubricants USA - Grease Compatibility Chart
So far I've experience no failures where I've used the shc32. Maybe I ought to be more carefull about trying to remove as much of the old grease as possible before adding this stuff.
 

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I notice that #18 on the sprocket side appears to be sealed on the outside. If all the bearings are open on at least one side, does this mean the inside of that bearing seals against a shoulder inside the wheel hub?
The insides of both wheel bearings are not sealed. The wheel hub and seals on the outside of both bearings keeps contaminants out. When I took the bearings out of my rear wheel, I could see the grease on the inside faces and both were pretty clean.
 

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The insides of both wheel bearings are not sealed. The wheel hub and seals on the outside of both bearings keeps contaminants out. When I took the bearings out of my rear wheel, I could see the grease on the inside faces and both were pretty clean.
Well then I'm clearly confused by the drawing above. It shows 3 bearings, Two 18's and one 16.

I'm guessing the two 18's are wheel bearings and the 16 is the sprocket carrier bearing. The sprocket carrier bearing clearly shows it to be open to the outside and 17 is the seal for it.

The 18 on the brake disk side shows 19 as a seal for it but doesn't appear to be open towards the hub like 16 shows. Based on that, I assumed 18 on the sprocket side was sealed on the outside because it looks the same, and I see no outer seal for it like the other side shows.

If 18 on the sprocket side is unsealed to the outside, what does it seal against? It doesn't show a 19 like the other side.
 
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