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Good God man...could you have made the photos any LARGER????



Seriously though, those are nice!!!
 

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no doubt. You have exactly 3 flies, 2 mosquitos, and a beetle in your radiator.
 

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Boy, You can JUST make it out.............:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
lifesize pics

BTD,
The phone modem people will have quite a wait for those pics. That's the size the camera is set up for I guess.

jwt,
Rotors were $530 plus shipping ($16 for me) at
Bulletbikez. Galfer sintered pads were $80 at Calsportbike (free shipping). Quick shipping from both vendors.
 

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Three pounds unsprung weight is a lot to lose. It should handle better.
 

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Looks great!

I do not wish to hijack your thread, but I will take a chance and ask my question here, since you may have recently done this reasearch in leading up to your rotor swap.

I am curious what other rotors (stock factory, from other makes & models) are a direct bolt up replacement for the stock units on my bike.

Perhaps it indicates on the packaging from Galfer what other models and years the rotors you purchased for your bike will fit? (I doubt that Suzuki would make rotors that would fit only one model).

My project is strictly cosmetic at this point; the stock rotors are corroded, and it would be neat to have something unique on there. I researched aftermarket rotors, but was floored by the cost. So, in typical Strommer fashion, I figured I could do a quick swap with some used rotors from another salvaged bike off of EBay that better fit my budget.

Thanks for any input.
 

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Brake Lines

Neat rotors.

I see you put in braided steel brake lines. Whose did you use? How did the install and bleed down go? Did you use a bleed tool or do it the old fashioned way?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Neat rotors.

I see you put in braided steel brake lines. Whose did you use? How did the install and bleed down go? Did you use a bleed tool or do it the old fashioned way?

Thanks!

The lines are galfer too. I used a vacuum pump to pull the fluid down from the reservoir and bleed them at the same time. Wrapping a little teflon tape on the threads prevents sucking air into the system. There's a valve at the top and I bled that too (pumping brake lever). Very solid, first try!
 

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So, how does it perform? Can you tell a big difference?
 

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Those are some nice looking rotors. And lighter leads to more nimble handling. I've owned a street bike with ultralight unsprung weight, turn in was way different. OK, I see those advantages.

But they are brake rotors. Why would they be any better at their primary function than stock rotors the same size? Wouldn't the fancy new pads give just as much improvement used with stock rotors?

I've always wondered why those rotors are so popular with sportbikers. There's probably something about this setup I don't understand yet. Please explain.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll try to get out this weekend. Work Saturday morning and tooo hot in the afternoon for a 100+ mile ride - 95+ degrees. Maybe Sunday morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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The lines are galfer too. I used a vacuum pump to pull the fluid down from the reservoir and bleed them at the same time. Wrapping a little teflon tape on the threads prevents sucking air into the system. There's a valve at the top and I bled that too (pumping brake lever). Very solid, first try!
Galfer lines, very good. I was looking at the Murph's kit, I'll compare. Since I'm interrogating you here: what brake bleeder did you use, where'd you get it, how much $$ was it? The parts place nearby has one for rent but it's huge and I think it might be overkill.

Thanks for all the info, I really appreciate it.
 

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