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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy all,

I know their are some more experienced clutch guru's who have much more experience than I do with clutch issues, so here goes.

2007 Vee. Last fall I barely got her home when the stator went kaput. I have since repaired the stator/loose magnet issues and that part working perfect.

I thought I screwed up the clutch slave cylinder, but I had taken off and put back on many times since I've had this bike with no issues.
After taking the slave apart, totally cleaning the piston/chamber, put it back together, new fluid totally bled the system again, still no forward drive.

So drained coolant/oil, took off clutch cover (I did this because I could move the clutch/pressure plates through the oil filler), tried the screw driver trick manipulating clutch, it would tighten, but then loosen back to floppy clutch/pressure plates.

The 5 springs all look good, clutch/pressure plates look good, so is my next step taking off the crimped washer nut?

What is the possibility the #20 push rod has an issue?
Also, when I grab the clutch basket, it is solid - except for I can turn it (clunkily) forward & back about 1/4", is this normal?

Thank you in advance for any thoughts...
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Also another thought

Howdy again all,

I also forgot to add, when I pulled the clutch/pressure plates out, the flat washer was last, the wavy washer was before the flat washer... which I thought was supposed to also be a wavy washer?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just an update... I decided to put back together and wait until I could get clutch parts, well to make a long story short, in the end, I think
the 5 bolts w/springs were causing the issue. After I torqued them down, the clutch plates tightened up.

Put her back together, oil & antifreeze, rode her...
 

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I suspect that taking it apart and putting it back has corrected the alignment of the splines where the pressure plate and inner hub mate up. Hard to see the problem if you don't know what to look for.

The flanged nut is peened down at the factory and should be peened down with each installation.

There is a hardened flat washer that is the first part to go on when you start installing the clutch pack. Then the Belleville washer spring goes on top of the flat washer, with the outer edge raised. The hardened washer is there to protect the soft aluminum from the Belleville washer spring.

If you can turn the clutch basket 1/4" inch by hand, that would tell me there is a good bit of wear internally.

The 5 pressure plate springs bottom out. Hard to install them wrong. Never seen an issue from them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I suspect that taking it apart and putting it back has corrected the alignment of the splines where the pressure plate and inner hub mate up. Hard to see the problem if you don't know what to look for.

The flanged nut is peened down at the factory and should be peened down with each installation.

There is a hardened flat washer that is the first part to go on when you start installing the clutch pack. Then the Belleville washer spring goes on top of the flat washer, with the outer edge raised. The hardened washer is there to protect the soft aluminum from the Belleville washer spring.

If you can turn the clutch basket 1/4" inch by hand, that would tell me there is a good bit of wear internally.

The 5 pressure plate springs bottom out. Hard to install them wrong. Never seen an issue from them.

The first thing I noticed was how easy the 5 bolt springs backed out. My plan is to ride & order the parts (clutch basket, bearings, washers, nut, springs, gasket although I did re-use old one with zero leaks..etc) then once I have everything.. do a rebuild..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update

Ok, I've ridden little over 800 miles since this last "Fix"..

To date, clutch feels great, in fact, feels better than it ever has since I bought this bike last summer.

As finances increase, I plan to get a new WERKS basket and replace everything in the next couple months..
 
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