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Discussion Starter #1
Ive got an intermittent problem, thought TPS but it continued and worsened after new one installed.
Bike is an '06 1000, just shy of 40K miles.
Problem originally presented as just dying when rolling to a stop, ok pretty common so installed a new TPS.
Took out yesterday in 100+ heat and ran fine until I got out on highway and pulled off an exit, it died before fully stopped.
Re-fire and pull into top fuel off and grab a Gatorade.
Runs fine for about another 10 miles then starts lurching, chugging and no power, then clears and goes like a raped ape.
Keeps happening at random as I'm following a buddy to get lunch.
Have lunch and bike has had an Hour+ to cool off sitting in rain and 80 degrees.
I don't even get a mile down the road and it starts up again, roll throttle wide open with clutch pulled and its sputtering and dying.
I would almost explain like a plugged fuel filter but then it just clears up and off you go again.
Now the WEIRD part, when its getting ready to act up and during the speedo freaks and bounces all over the place.
Then Speedo goes back to normal when problem clears!
Has me stumped of where to start looking for this GREMLIN! :confused:
Whats your thoughts????
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wish I could get it to do this while on paddock stands so I could wiggle wires! :confused:
Glad I have a second bike to roll while hunting this GREMLIN! :furious:
Mike


That sounds like electrical problems to me...start examining wiring harness from the battery on out...
 

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"Have lunch and bike has had an Hour+ to cool off sitting in rain and 80 degrees.
I don't even get a mile down the road and it starts up again, roll throttle wide open with clutch pulled and its sputtering and dying.
"

I also think that it is electrical. Hot and wet promotes corrosion. I'd first look for it in the connectors around the steering stem/faring. Then maybe switches like the kill switch or the sidestand switch etc. etc. etc. I dislike intermittent electrical faults.:serious:
 

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This is just a small thing which may or may not have anything to do with your problem( dying, erratic speedo)
Check the charging system for a/c voltage. A defective voltage regulator/rectifier can introduce a/c voltage into the electrical systems, and can cause engine stalling, erratic gauge operation, poor running, etc.
This was outlined several years(decades?) ago in a Mazda technical Service Bulletin.
Youre looking for less than 500 millivolts a/c @ 2500 rpm.
Generally, bulletins like this are generated by warranty claims containing excessive diagnostic and repair costs.
A simple and quick test to perform, doesnt cost a thing.

Years ago one of my Mazda mentors made this statement: "There is no such thing as an intermittent problem. This is a problem that will only show itself under certain conditions. Your job is to duplicate those conditions so you can establish a pattern, repair, and verify the repair under those conditions."
 

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It's an excuse to buy a new one. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not with my wife!
Her thinking is its a reason to get rid of one bike:furious:
Now that Im retired and play money is cut, a new bike is out of the question unless I pick up some part time work.
Im enjoying riding my lazy boy at the moment so not ready to get back out in the work force yet.
Mike

It's an excuse to buy a new one. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
SO update to progress.
Initial assessment nothing jumped out at me, but ground on battery was a little lose but not enough in my opinion to cause this.
Tracing electrical for any nicks and have almost whole main wiring harness pulled out and nothing noticed so far that could be rubbed and grounding out to frame.
I'm going on ahead and rewrapping the harness with red electrical tape as I go so I can easily see where I have inspected.
Did find a rub on line from power commander to injector loop so opening it up to see if wire coating is rubbed through and decide if that's the problem.
Will look into what was mentioned in post #7 after I get wiring back in bike.
Fortunately my 650 is running like a champ so I'm still logging miles and in no rush to get this repaired.
Also while tore apart figure out why my audiovox cruise quit working a couple of years ago.

Mike
 

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"Did find a rub on line from power commander to injector loop so opening it up to see if wire coating is rubbed through and decide if that's the problem."

Just asking...but have you taken the Power Commander out of the system to eliminate that as a possibility?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No but had thought about it as next step if what Im doing doesn't fix problem.
Also got a TRE that I thought of removing to check.
Mike

"Did find a rub on line from power commander to injector loop so opening it up to see if wire coating is rubbed through and decide if that's the problem."

Just asking...but have you taken the Power Commander out of the system to eliminate that as a possibility?
 

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Vegas, at the shop whenever there was a drivability complaint that wasnt easily located through normal diagnostic procedures, I'd always remove or bypass mods when possible to eliminate them as a source of the problem.

Here's a good one...
One of my former coworkers had an independent shop. The vehicle in question was a '92 Mazda MPV minivan. He calls me to tell me about this van whose automatic transmission would intermittently not shift into overdrive. He went through all the normal diagnosis, then...replaced the transmission. Came back with the same problem. Replaced transmission again. Came back again with same problem. Came back for a 3rd time..then he called me. I had him bring it over to my house for diagnosis. Road tested to verify complaint, shifted into OD twice, then wouldnt shift into OD again. Back in the garage I was pin testing voltages at the the transmission control unit. The 1st pin I checked was power coming from the ignition switch. I noticed that the voltage was fluctuating between 8 and 12 volts. Pulled off the steering column surround to gain access to the ignition switch wiring and found...a wire had been spliced into the ignition switch harness. The original harness wire powered the control unit, the wire spliced to it was powering an aftermarket alarm. I cut the splice and moved its wire to a power point in the fusebox, and following a road test, pronounced it FIXED. $1900 worth of transmissions and labor wasted due to an aftermarket item. One of the 1st statements concerning electrical diagnosis in Mazda service manuals advises to disconnect or remove all aftermarket items in the circuit being tested.
 

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Yep

Up for a long story? Get a snuggy and a cup of latte......

Had dealer do work on the motorhome( axle bearings, calipers, hard and soft brake lines, etc). Went to pick it up and they said that the brake lights were not working and the 'Tech' spent 3 hours on it but could find nothing wrong....brake switch was working and getting power....hmmmmm. It took me 45 min to find the problem which was an aftermarket Auxilliary tow vehicle braking system that was spliced to the brake 'hot' line which was in a bundle zip tied to the hard crossover rear brake Hyd line(the ONE THE TECH REPLACED). A crimp connector had been used which had broken the wire.

So while I'm under there I see gear oil all over the inside of the two front tires....the bearing seals they put in failed on the drive home and all front axle oil was gone. Fill it up with oil and drive it back so they could fix it right. Leave for a trip to Canada and had one of the new rear bearings fail that they put in. Replaced in Minnesota, onward to Manitoba where the other rear bearing failed{you have got to be kidding me}. Mechanic in Canada removes the rear castle nut to find that the outer bearing was the wrong size(1/8" too large for the spindle), and guess what????.....the Minnesota shop used the same part numbers in installed the same wrong bearing.

I have to admit, I was intimidated by the size and the tools required to work on the beast....just the lug nuts are 275 foot lbs. So, instead of doing all the work myself(which I usually do) I opted to let the "professionals" do it. Never again. And what "mechanic" does not dry fit bearings on a spindle before installing them? Even my Dad taught me how to do that back in the 70's.

Vegas, the moral to the story is no matter what it takes, figure it out on your own & do your own wrenching. In the end you will have learned more about the bike and saved some $ in the process.

sorry for the sidetrack/vent....whew........
 

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Motor7, I'll see your bearing and raise you 1 transmission:
'94 Mazda Protege. Customer states " Shifts poor on turns". Tech road tests the vehicle, can't duplicate the customer's stated concern.
Car comes back, same complaint. Tech adds 1 inch's worth's of trans fluid to the full mark on the dipstick. Road tests the car, not acting up. Car comes back a 2nd time with the same complaint. Tech replaces the transmission control unit--TWICE--both times car comes back, same complaint.
The tech replaces the transmission. Car returns, same complaint.
The tech replaces the transmission AGAIN. Car returns, same complaint.
My service manager asks me to road test with the tech. I drive the car, other tech in passenger seat. Car not acting up--UNTIL I turn on the left turn signal. Then it upshifts and downshifts in rapid succession like it's bat-crazy. Does this each time I use the left turn signal. I've established a pattern, can duplicate the customer's complaint every time.
Back at the shop I turn on the warning hazards. All flash normally except the left rear. I see a lone wire spliced into the left turn signal bulb socket. Followed that wire to...THE AFTERMARKET TRUNK SPOILER. Clipped the wire, and FIXED. The left turn signal wire was powered by the same ignition switch terminal that powered the transmission control unit, and the multiple brake bulbs in the spoiler took enough current to confuse the control unit.
2 transmissions, 2 control units, countless labor hours, all for naught. The tech told me he never used the turn signals on his road tests.
Those that can, diagnose first. Those that can't diagnose replace parts first. One does not equal the other.
 
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