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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finally received my Givi Side Rack (back ordered for 7 weeks) and followed the instructions...looked pretty simple. I aligned the left and right side of the rack, and loosely hand tightened the 4 M8x45mm bolts Givi provided and TWO of the bolts would not fully seat after several turns. When I had resistence, I backed them out and tried again...to no avail. I tried turning with more force, and likely made it worse. So...I've reseached this a bit and I saw a few threads about "chasing the threads" and/or "Heli-coil".

Can someone please provide me some insight as to which is the better method to follow? Can both be done by a non-mechanic type e.g. "me"?

Is this a "dealer" task? Any idea what they would charge to fix?

Can I purchase the kit at an auto parts store e.g. Advanced Auto Parts?

Is there a certain sized kit I need to use if the bolts that won't seat were m8x45mm that Givi provided?

If I "chase the threads" using the tool you suggest, do I use the same m8x45mm bolts Givi supplied or do I need a wider bolt if re-threaded?

Thanks much for your help! Totally frustrated I had to wait this long and botched the install on something that looked so simple :-(

***FIXED PROBLEM THANKS TO THE TERRIFIC HELP I RECEIVED IN THIS FORUM!!...SEE LESSONS LEARNED AT BOTTOM OF THREAD IF YOU ARE PLANNING TO INSTALL THE SIDE RACKS**
 

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I finally received my Givi Side Rack (back ordered for 7 weeks) and followed the instructions...looked pretty simple. I aligned the left and right side of the rack, and loosely hand tightened the 4 M8x45mm bolts Givi provided and TWO of the bolts would not fully seat after several turns. When I had resistence, I backed them out and tried again...to no avail. I tried turning with more force, and likely made it worse. So...I've reseached this a bit and I saw a few threads about "chasing the threads" and/or "Heli-coil".

Can someone please provide me some insight as to which is the better method to follow? Can both be done by a non-mechanic type e.g. "me"?

Is this a "dealer" task? Any idea what they would charge to fix?

Can I purchase the kit at an auto parts store e.g. Advanced Auto Parts?

Is there a certain sized kit I need to use if the bolts that won't seat were m8x45mm that Givi provided?

If I "chase the threads" using the tool you suggest, do I use the same m8x45mm bolts Givi supplied or do I need a wider bolt if re-threaded?

Thanks much for your help! Totally frustrated I had to wait this long and botched the install on something that looked so simple :-(
You want to chase the threads with an M8 tap. I don't know if an automotive store would carry a metric tap and die kit, but I know some stores like Lowe's / Home Depot may. I got mine through a local store...Tacoma Screw.

You're effectively cleaning out the thread...sometimes dirt, debris or thread locker (Loctite, etc) can get in there and cause the bolt to seize when you are tightening it.

Are the bolts supplied by Givi in that kit coated in the same black material everything else comes in?

In that case, you may need a thread kit to clean the bolt itself, so it can fit.

Some people prefer to ditch the Givi bolts and purchase stainless steel hardware elsewhere...so it's not coated in that stuff.

I am sure there are much more informed members on this board that can answer your question better. They should be along shortly.

Also...you DO NOT need a heli-coil. That'll only be needed if you stripped the threads that the bolts go into.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the feedback. Yes, the bolts Givi provided are coated in black but I think the problem is actually the two nuts in the frame of the bike the two bolts are trying to attach to. The other two bolts are fine. I've removed the bolts and used a nut I had and it fits the bolts fine and they both screw on and off with no problem. Thus, I believe I screwed up the threads in the nuts that hold the two bolts.....(excuse the pun) ;-) Does that make sense? Thanks again
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It helps to start each bolt using only a few threads at first. Only when all the bolts have been started should each one be turned in a few more turns each until all are tight. An M8x1.25 tap will clean up the holes and a die will clean up the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, here a thread where a fellow Stromtrooper explains how to chase threads using an M8 tap (for Givi engine guards).

Givi engine guards thread chasing tip
Thanks, I checked out that thread and I wonder if his post is telling the person he is trying to help to get new bolts because he will need wider diameter bolts after the tapping is completed since the hole of the nut the bolt will be seated in is now larger as a result of the tapping.

The bolt I was using was an m8x45mm...so the tap I need would be an 8x8mm tap? Is that right? Talk about a fish out of water here.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It helps to start each bolt using only a few threads at first. Only when all the bolts have been started should each one be turned in a few more turns each until all are tight. An M8x1.25 tap will clean up the holes and a die will clean up the bolts.
Great, that is the clarification I was seeking. I need an m8x1.25 tap and I am assuming that I'll be able to reuse the M8x45mm bolts after the hole is tapped. Is that right...I won't need wider diameter bolts after the hole is tapped? Thanks much for the help.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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As long as you didn't strip the threads out of the holes, all sizes will remain the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As long as you didn't strip the threads out of the holes, all sizes will remain the same.
I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks again!
 

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You're effectively cleaning out the thread...sometimes dirt, debris or thread locker (Loctite, etc) can get in there and cause the bolt to seize when you are tightening it.
I came across the same problem when installing crash bars. I found after removing the OEM bolts and before replacing with the ones provided with the accessory to ream out the hole with a pipe cleaner that has plastic bristles. I could not believe how much thread locker combined with grime came out of there. After I finished you could visibly see how clean the threads were, and the bolts went in without a problem. I've owned a couple of Kawasaki's and a Yamaha and none of them seem to have as much thread lock as the Suzuki. Not necessarily a bad thing, but just have to remember to clean the surface before slapping on the new farkle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I came across the same problem when installing crash bars. I found after removing the OEM bolts and before replacing with the ones provided with the accessory to ream out the hole with a pipe cleaner that has plastic bristles. I could not believe how much thread locker combined with grime came out of there. After I finished you could visibly see how clean the threads were, and the bolts went in without a problem. I've owned a couple of Kawasaki's and a Yamaha and none of them seem to have as much thread lock as the Suzuki. Not necessarily a bad thing, but just have to remember to clean the surface before slapping on the new farkle.
I feel like I go to school with every farkle I install, which is fine as you are never too old to learn. You've brought up a good point which is likely contributing to the problem. I'll get a small brush and ream out potential debris in the hole and blast some compressed air in there too. Seems like a good practice to get into in the future to avoid the headache I created trying to install the Givi side racks. Thanks again for the feedback / suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
THANK YOU!

You want to chase the threads with an M8 tap. I don't know if an automotive store would carry a metric tap and die kit, but I know some stores like Lowe's / Home Depot may. I got mine through a local store...Tacoma Screw.

You're effectively cleaning out the thread...sometimes dirt, debris or thread locker (Loctite, etc) can get in there and cause the bolt to seize when you are tightening it.

Are the bolts supplied by Givi in that kit coated in the same black material everything else comes in?

In that case, you may need a thread kit to clean the bolt itself, so it can fit.

Some people prefer to ditch the Givi bolts and purchase stainless steel hardware elsewhere...so it's not coated in that stuff.

I am sure there are much more informed members on this board that can answer your question better. They should be along shortly.

Also...you DO NOT need a heli-coil. That'll only be needed if you stripped the threads that the bolts go into.
*****
Thank you- I bought a metric re-threading kit at Advanced Auto Parts for $29 and just finished re-threading both of the frame nuts and successfully installed my PL532 Givi Side Case rack. This is a set of tools I should always have had anyway, so now I do and know how to use it. You guys rock! Thanks again for all of your help. Could not have done it without your help. - Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you!

As long as you didn't strip the threads out of the holes, all sizes will remain the same.
Thank you- I bought a metric re-threading kit at Advanced Auto Parts for $29 and just finished re-threading both of the frame nuts and successfully installed my PL532 Givi Side Case rack. I was able to use the same sized bolts as you suggested I would since I was able to re-thread the two frame nuts. This is a set of tools I should always have had anyway, so now I do and know how to use it. You guys on this forum are great! Thanks again for all of your help. Could not have done it without your help! - Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Givi PL532 Side Rack Install - Lessons Learned

For anyone who is planning to install side racks on your bike here are a few tips I learned the hard way, but thanks to the expertise in this forum was able to recover and wrap up the install nicely.

1. Naturally, follow the install directions to the last detail. Read them over completely BEFORE you start making sure you see where the medal tabs are suppose to align with the passenger peg braces.

2. BEFORE placing bolts into mounting nuts, clean up the bolts and nut threads of any debris / medal shavings they may have to reduce the risk of the bolt "jamming". Use a tiny nylon brush / pipe cleaner etc. and then blast both with compressed air. Also wipe down the service around where the bolts will be attached to ensure no other medal fragment debris ends up in the threads.

3. Place each bolt in each of the four holes and dry fit them specifically to observe each of their normal angle they need to follow to properly thread. THIS WILL SAVE YOU A LOT OF AGGRAVATION later...as you'll like find there are one or two bolts that need to seat at a "slight angle" vs. perfectly perpendicular. Take note of which are slightly different.

4. Place both side racks over the mounting holes with necessary hardware, washers, etc. and "carefully" hand tighten each of the 4 bolts until several of the threads catch. Since it was just me and one set of hands, I used Duct Tape to hold each side rack and line up the holes as closely as I could. Then I "lightly" tightened each bolt until it caught a few threads. Mine was a bit tricky...after I had 3 bolts in I had to apply pressure to the side rack and seat tail cover so the 4th bolt would connect in its natural / already established path which was at a slight angle.

5. EVENLY rotate the tightening of EACH of the four bolts...if you encounter any noticeable resistance...back the bolt out and try realigning it again. DO NOT over torque the bolt (like I did and then had to re-thread). BEFORE you tighten the side racks make sure you use the supplied hardware to attach the medal tabs to the passenger peg mounts AND the rear givi side rack bracket that connects both of the side racks.


GOOD LUCK!
 
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