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For the past couple weeks, I have been getting an annoying buzz around 5000 RPM. It sounded like it was coming inside the front cowling, which I had apart recently to do a valve check. But after checking every fastener, tab, wire harness, etc. about 4 times, I couldn't find it. So on a whim tonight, I pulled on my Givi engine guards, and lo and behold, one side was loose. Not where it mounts to the frame, but where the upper bar attaches to the mounting plate.

Trying to be proactive, I did a little searching on Givi's website and found the instructions, which includes a parts list. The part in question, screw #7, should be an easy replacement from Lowes or an auto specialty store - except that the Italian lists it as M8x20, and every other language shows it as M6x30. Does anyone know offhand which is right? Did they get it right in their own language, and screw up the translation? I really don't feel like taking apart both sides to find out, and am hoping someone knows off hand.

thanks!
 

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In the end, the size of the screw didn't matter too much. The old one didn't fall out - it broke off inside the bar (apparently the Givi supplied screws ARE made of cheese grade "steel" (I use that term loosely). I tried extracting it but it is hung up in there nice and tight, so I will need to drill it out and retap it. Based on what I saw taking the other bolts out so I could remove the bar, plus the fact that the screw caps seem to be a one use only kind of thing, I think I am going to replace all of the fasteners with stainless in the near future. Then the missing caps won't bug me either.
 

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In the end, the size of the screw didn't matter too much. The old one didn't fall out - it broke off inside the bar (apparently the Givi supplied screws ARE made of cheese grade "steel" (I use that term loosely). I tried extracting it but it is hung up in there nice and tight, so I will need to drill it out and retap it. Based on what I saw taking the other bolts out so I could remove the bar, plus the fact that the screw caps seem to be a one use only kind of thing, I think I am going to replace all of the fasteners with stainless in the near future. Then the missing caps won't bug me either.
Yup, when I got my Givi guards there was a fellow who had just installed his with upgraded fasteners. He had a bunch to spare and was nice enough to send me some. Maybe saved me some grief as others have reported problems such as yours.
 

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I'm glad I stumbled across this thread: I had the same vibration problems, and finally realized that the upper bolts on both sides had sheared. Not looking forward to pulling the engine guards and replacing all the bolts, but it will be nice to get rid of the vibration.

Did you ever figure out what the proper size was?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Part of the problem may be the wrong torque spec in the service manual. It should be 16.5lb-ft, not 25.5lb-ft.
 

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I'm glad I stumbled across this thread: I had the same vibration problems, and finally realized that the upper bolts on both sides had sheared. Not looking forward to pulling the engine guards and replacing all the bolts, but it will be nice to get rid of the vibration.

Did you ever figure out what the proper size was?
I too have the same issue. Got my new-to-me 650 home and noticed a buzz at around 5000 rpm when accelerating. When I reached my left hand down to the crash bar on the left side the buzz stopped. Upon inspection the #7 bolt going thru the #8 plate from the backside and into the crash bar tube end itself is either not there or sheared off. Will have to take the bar off to be sure.

If I can't get it out, I'll need to drill and tap. If I can get it out, did you ever find out what the proper size was?

Thanks,

JT
 

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I had one of the bolts shear during installation as well. Got it out by drilling through the broken bolt and using an extractor. No vibration even with one bolt missing.

Giviusa is sending me a couple of spare bolts:thumbup:
 

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A few of us Sydney stromers got together at Bargo Pies and a participant was complaining about a noise at a given RPM.

It was that same bolt had worked loose on his bike.

( just by coincidence I received a message from Fester today)
 
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