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Yer right, too many bikes in my head. I suppose he can try a lower weight oil if he doesn't want to mess with springs. Would a shorter spacer or less oil help?
Both of those options would make things worse, by making it even easier to bottom the suspension, and providing less chassis control
 

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The frugal, but completely wonderful approach would be sonic fork springs using their spring rate calculator and a progressive suspension rear shock from us.
This is the most efficient and inexpensive way to change the suspension to get the biggest bang for the buck. I'm a "larger than average feller" at 6'3 260. I put Sonic springs in the front forks, changed the fork oil to Amsoil, raised the triple tree almost to the max height, did nothing to the rear shock and for less than $150 in parts/fluid I have a completely different bike. Sonic springs for just over $100 made all the difference in the world.
 

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Does anyone know of a good spring shop/mechanic in the Seattle to Olympia area? My front springs are stiff at best and will beat me up on anything not Interstate smooth. Too much rear wheel hop on dirt roads.
Not sure exactly how close this to you. I had some serious suspension modifications done by them some years back on a WR250f. They were excellent!
DeVol Racing Equipment
741 Stevenson Ave D, Enumclaw, WA 98022
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I'm resurrecting this thread based on new information.
of
The fork oil replacement was the last of my winter projects, and I didn't get to it before the weather got too nice to have the bike in parts.

Well, tonight while I was working on replacing my front ABS sensor I discovered the telltale signs of leaking fork seals. So fork work is back on the list.

I think I'm going to take the advice provided and look at the Sonic fork spring upgrade, with new oil. And, of course, new seals.
 

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....
Well, tonight while I was working on replacing my front ABS sensor I discovered the telltale signs of leaking fork seals. So fork work is back on the list.

I think I'm going to take the advice provided and look at the Sonic fork spring upgrade, with new oil. And, of course, new seals.
Try cleaning the seals first. If they are just weeping fluid that typically means some grit is in there. Usually you'll know if the seal actually failed because of the puddle on the floor!

Regarding fork oil, hydraulic fluid isn't regulated to weight like motor oil. Meaning one manufactures 10 weight could be another manufacturers 5 weight. Here's a WIKI page with info refer to the chart towards the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks for the advice. I already have the replacement seals (ordered when I planned to do the fork oil change), so I figure I may as well just swap them out when I do the rest of the project.

Ordered the Sonic springs last night.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
More advice requested.

I was reading through my Haynes manual, which provides instructions for 'Fork Oil Change' and 'Fork Overhaul'. If I'm going to replace the seals, is it advisable to do the full overhaul?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
This is my first time doing any work on my suspension, so I really appreciate all the help.

In addition to the Sonic springs, I've now ordered the following:
All Balls Fork Seal & Dust Seal Kit
All Balls Fork Bushing Kit
Will this cover me for all the replacement parts I may need?

I hate being in the middle of a project and discovering I need a part.
 

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Should do, that's pretty much what I used. I think the busing kit included the copper washers for the bottom of the fork legs.

Use the old bushings to drive the new ones in and you don't need the special tool for that.
 

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Or 1L of LV rated ATF.

Same viscosity, generally cheaper and it holds up better. Fork oil is a lottery for viscosity as well, 10Wt from one manufacturer will be 5 from another. The LV ATF on the other hand is ALWAYS the same viscosity.
 
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