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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Installed new brake pads front and rear. I’d put the Galfer Wave Rotors on earlier this Spring. After a crash last year, I’ve been replacing parts and adding a few upgrades (lighting and brakes) when I’ve had the time. I wasn’t up for any mechanic stuff last year. So, first time callipers and rotors back together since.

After pad install (cleaning and greasing), I was giving the bike a few good rolling stops back and forth before tightening the fork’s pinch bolt. Immediately felt and heard a revolutionary clunking rub, corresponding with the ‘wave’ tops of the rotors. Right side is catching the brake calliper somewhere. The rotors purchased are specific to fit my ‘16 650XA.

Everything is installed correctly so don’t understand it, unless these rotors are wrong for my model. Removed and checked calliper again.

Has anyone else experienced this situation? Is there a simple fix?
Thanks
 

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FWIW. I've installed eBay wave rotors on both a 2006 and 2012 DL650 and haven't had that problem.
 

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Why not post a pix of where the rotor is catching the caliper, so a possible solution can be suggested.
 

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And call the people you purchased them from and/or Galfer directly, but definitely need lots of photos.

I was giving the bike a few good rolling stops back and forth before tightening the fork’s pinch bolt. Immediately felt a revolutionary clunking rub. It appears the top of the new Galfer Wave Rotor on right side is catching the brake pad pin in the caliper.
So the left rotor is OK, but right rotor hits? Unless they sent two different rotors or one defective rotor this indicates something is wrong with the right side.

Is it hitting one spot or all the way around?

Did you tighten pinch bolts on both legs?

What about the front end was damaged in the crash?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi all. I edited the problem above. (See edit).
Looking again it does not appear to be hitting the upper pad pin in the calliper as I first thought, but I can’t determine where it’s hitting.

Yes, just right side. Yes, pinch-bolt is tightened to spec (there is only one on the left fork).
 

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The word "crash" sets off a mental warning bell about a bent fork tubes.

A lot of bikes have ridden a lot of miles with a slightly bent fork tube, but you have to take care to rotate the fork tube and experiment so you can position the fork tube in the best possible place so the other components line up as correctly as they can.

I don't remember whether the 2012+ DL650 has a speedo pickup on the left side, but make sure that and/or the spacer(s) are seated correctly and completely, the bearings are good, etc.

Sometimes removing the pads and re-installing the calipers can give you a better view of what's up and whether there are any wonky clearances, etc. Maybe one of the pads popped out of posiition as they love to do.

If you do have a bent fork tube, they're available new for under $300, so you have an option.
 

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As Bwringer said you can remove the pads and have a better look. I would be looking for parts that are in the area of the rotors that were shiny when they shouldn't be. Sorry, that is it for any ideas I might have.

Mike
 

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Wave rotors will tend to catch the edges of the pads. That's more or less by design.

What I'd be checking at this point is that the pistons move in and out easily both sides and that everything is installed properly. Particularly those springs at the back of the pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The word "crash" sets off a mental warning bell about a bent fork tubes.

A lot of bikes have ridden a lot of miles with a slightly bent fork tube, but you have to take care to rotate the fork tube and experiment so you can position the fork tube in the best possible place so the other components line up as correctly as they can.

I don't remember whether the 2012+ DL650 has a speedo pickup on the left side, but make sure that and/or the spacer(s) are seated correctly and completely, the bearings are good, etc.

Sometimes removing the pads and re-installing the calipers can give you a better view of what's up and whether there are any wonky clearances, etc. Maybe one of the pads popped out of posiition as they love to do.

If you do have a bent fork tube, they're available new for under $300, so you have an option.
Thanks. The original forks were bent (50-60 kms/hr), and replaced. Impact was on opposite side of calliper with the rub… The pads are brand new Galfers (even though oem’s were still good), which I just did myself, very carefully and cleaning and greasing what’s needed. It’s straight forward but time consuming. I took the calliper off and checked again, then on. Still clunks (More than the catch of the wave on the pad). Calliper removed, no clunk (just wanted to be sure 😉).

Pads have remained in correct positions, and pistons move smoothly out and we’re easily compressed in during pad change.

Innitially I thought the rotor wave tops were hitting pad pins, but could then see they cleared them, and was looking for scoring on top of the waves, but there were none.

Maybe this is just the wave rotor aspect, but it seems too much of a ‘clunk’ than a ‘rub’.

At this point it just feels like the moto gods are just throwing me another PITA out of spite…

Thank you all for your help!
 

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There is a sort of generic clunk but it's usually noticed coming to a stop. The pads have some fore-aft slack, so friction off the disk will push them back, then gravity wins, clunk, then they get pushed back again, gravity wins again, clunk. Some pads have been worse than others for that with me. Gold-Fren were quite bad, EBC-HH it's not really noticeable.
 

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A standard trick would be to put something that transfers color (chalk, lipstick, slow-drying paint, ...) on the outside rim of the rotors, then force that clunk situation. You then disassemble the callipers and see where the color ended up.

My bet is on the fore-aft slack that PeteW mentioned though. According to the parts fiche there are a few anti-rattle pad springs in the mechanism. Did you install these correctly?


Parts 4/19 and 8/23. And apparently left and right are different, so check you put the right one on the right side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
A standard trick would be to put something that transfers color (chalk, lipstick, slow-drying paint, ...) on the outside rim of the rotors, then force that clunk situation. You then disassemble the callipers and see where the color ended up.

My bet is on the fore-aft slack that PeteW mentioned though. According to the parts fiche there are a few anti-rattle pad springs in the mechanism. Did you install these correctly?

Parts 4/19 and 8/23. And apparently left and right are different, so check you put the right one on the right side.

Yes. Install was careful to be sure the pads were seated properly, and everything in the correct place. Seems there was only one way each side would fit, but I will definitely check this again; and if still clunking each wave, definitely do the marking process you’ve suggested (when I get back home this weekend). Merci!
 

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Any chance the wheel bearing shifted in the crash? The left bearing is seated then the right is centered. If the left bearing is not seated, the wheel is right of center.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Any chance the wheel bearing shifted in the crash? The left bearing is seated then the right is centered. If the left bearing is not seated, the wheel is right of center.
That is a great idea I didn’t think of. On my balancer the wheel was true and all revolved cleanly, except the one rotor (It was difficult this Spring to buy one OEM rotor anywhere. Japan warehouse was possible but considering upgrade Galfer rotors were only slightly more cost, I went for the two new ones… which of course is twice as expensive… but wanting to improve the brakes as much as possible, so went for them). Time I have for work on the bike now is only here and there unfortunately.
 

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Did you sway the rotors to see if the problem moves to the other side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Did you sway the rotors to see if the problem moves to the other side?
Thanks. Yes, and they are solid. The wheel’s bearing also spin freely and appear to be as they should. Finally today I’ll mark them and then look into the callipers and se where it’s hitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Found the culprit (finally got some shop time). It’s the raised tab of the calliper that holds the pad end in place and bit of the heat shield plate clips over.

The metal on metal catch is this small rectangular shape clicking down into the wave rotor's mid-rotor spaces as they go by. The left side, which is fine, looks identically positioned. Am I a complete bonehead here and missed something, and it is not seated properly?

288820
288821
288822


Wheel axle/bearing LEFT side.
288823

Wheel axle/bearing RIGHT side.
288824
 

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Have you looked at the caliper sliding pin for damage or notch preventing releasing the pads enough or the brake bolting tab on the fork slightly out of alignment?
 
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