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Hey all,

Searched, but wanted exact answers.

I don't want multiple stuff attached directly to battery, so am looking at a fuse block.

I know you can buy a pc-8 etc, centech, etc, but looking for something that's not 70$+...

The west marine 6 block for 30$ looks good, but wondering,from the more tech savy crew, what the difference between switchable and non switchable is?

Going to be running iphone power, heated grips, heated vest, etc...maybe aux lights...



Anyone with any insightful knowledge?
 

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.... heated grips, heated vest, etc...maybe aux lights..

Going to be running iphone power, heated grips, heated vest, etc...maybe aux lights...
Just remember that the Vstrom doesn't put out much power for all your proposed heated gear.
Just my 2 cents. I've no heated gear or extra lights and I just run electronics, phone and camera battery chargers via a dashboard panel. Mine is in-line fused separately, but wired directly right onto the battery.


Hey all,

Searched, but wanted exact answers.

I don't want multiple stuff attached directly to battery, so am looking at a fuse block.

I know you can buy a pc-8 etc, centech, etc, but looking for something that's not 70$+...

The west marine 6 block for 30$ looks good, but wondering,from the more tech savy crew, what the difference between switchable and non switchable is?

Going to be running iphone power, heated grips, heated vest, etc...maybe aux lights...



Anyone with any insightful knowledge?
 

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You can run a lower cost Blue Sea ATC fuse block, its a bit larger than the better options. You can add a relay to anything for switched power, any auto parts store will have a relay. Personally, I prefer a fuse block that's always on. I'm not finished with my set up yet, but I'm using a Blue Sea box just to spread out the connections.

I just run a SAE cord to a 3 way CIG adapter into my tank bag for charging electronics while riding. I run my GPS off the bike's harness, its a Garmin 60 so the AA batteries power it while the bike is off. I run heated gear with the controller on my belt, so it draws nothing when I get off the bike.

For my needs a simple Blue Sea box is fine. I got mine with extra fuses off Ebay for $30 shipped. I have used an always on Centech in the past on other bikes, but I have the room under the seat, so I went cheap on the DL1000. The little fuse blocks that cost more are much more compact, but if you have the room for the bulky Blue Sea...
 

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Switched means that it is energized only when the ignition is on. Non switched means that it is always energized.

Be sure the fuse block is either covered, or invent an insulated cover for it. You want a suitable sized fuse for the positive leg of each circuit, and run the negative side back to the battery negative post, or a negative bus, not back to the frame.
 

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Making sure all you leads go back to the battery is sound advice. Not relying on frame ground will insure proper operation of your accessories.
Some the prices on prepared fuse blocks seem high until you consider the cost of buying the parts and time of assembly.
Getting it right is mo bettah than trouble shooting a hash job on the side of the road.
 

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So what size fuse in between the battery and the fuse block? I have put Blue Sea fuse blocks on a lot of my cars through the years and always used a 100A breaker in between. What size for a motorcycle?

Also, what size wires from the battery to the block? Again for the car I used 2 awg. Thanks.
 

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30A is plenty for the fuse to the fuse block. The main fuse on the bike is 30A.
 

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So what size fuse in between the battery and the fuse block? I have put Blue Sea fuse blocks on a lot of my cars through the years and always used a 100A breaker in between. What size for a motorcycle?

Also, what size wires from the battery to the block? Again for the car I used 2 awg. Thanks.
Look at the rating on the device and NEVER fuse it for higher. As I recall my Blue Seas block is rated for 60 amps total however I only have about 25 amps of maximum load on it so I fused mine for 30 amps.

A 100 amp breaker on a 12 volt system is 1200 watts, or about 9.6 times the amount available on a V-Strom and nearly twice the ampacity of the fuse block. A really, really bad idea.
 

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Thanks Greywolf, any suggestions on what size wire to run from the battery to the fuse block on a motorcycle?
10ga or 12ga is good. It's very short.
 

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I am posting here to answer a couple of questions on this topic.
I just installed the Denali fuse block. The installation was easy after Greywolf told me what color wire to look for in order to tap into a switched wire. I found the license plate wire right in the rear of my Vee2 just sitting there waiting to be tapped.

Now that the fuse block is installed, I am starting to connect my electronics. I have read that double fuses in a circuit are are not a good thing. The cable from my Zumo 550 already has a fuse. Should I cut out the fuse, as there will already be a fuse in the fuse block?

Second question- I want to install one connector wire to an unswitched circuit on the fuse block to handle my battery tender and Gerbing gear. Is that possible, and if so, what to do? I do currently have one connector wire for my battery tender and one for my heated gear.
Thanks for any help:confused::thumbup:
 

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It's up to you whether to double fuse or not. It will work, but it's probably best to remove the inline fuse or replace it with a large value fuse so the smaller fuse in the fuse block will be the one that blows in case of a short and you'll know where to look.

The Denali allows two fuse positions for each circuit. You just put the fuse on the two posts closer to the output wires to create an unswitched connection or the two outer posts for a switched connection. You can connect the heated gear wire and the battery tender wire to the wire coming out of the Denali fuse block or you can use an unswitched connection for each on the fuse block if you have room.
 

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Second question- I want to install one connector wire to an unswitched circuit on the fuse block to handle my battery tender and Gerbing gear. Is that possible, and if so, what to do? I do currently have one connector wire for my battery tender and one for my heated gear.
Thanks for any help:confused::thumbup:

I run the fused pigtails for heated gear and battery tender directly to the battery and not thru my auxiliary fuse block,

1. I believe the proper way to charge a battery is to connect directly to the battery

2. heated gear is unplugged when you get off the bike, one does not take the heated gear off and leave it plugged in accidently and drain the battery like what happens with other accessories when left on an unswitched circuit

I have my auxiliary fuse block wired with 2 unswitched circuits and 6 switched circuits, one of the unswitched circuits is unused at this time so it is more or less just a spare fuse holder, the unswitched circuit that I have set up goes to a 12 power socket, primarily so that if I need to use my 12v compressor I don't need the bike turned on

my gps, v-1, autocom, each have their own switched circuit, my other 3 switched circuits will be used for auxiliary lighting and auxiliary horn



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Randy,
Thanks for some "real world" info on how I should set up my fuse block.
Hope yor bike is ready for some great weekends in 2015.:thumbup:
 

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Calling Grey Wolf

I noticed that the positive terminal on my EB PC8 fuse block has burnt out. It was the circuit that my EB HP4 headlight was connected to. I had a 20 A fuse inserted in that circuit on the fuse block. The fuse was intact and the headlights still functioned ( on all the time as required in OZ) .

Someone has suggested that it may just have been a loose terminal screw that caused the arcing. If it was a short circuit, would not the fuse blow rather than this?
 

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A loose connection can cause heat. Which model bike was it? Were stock bulbs used? Do you use the flash to pass switch a lot? That puts the draw very close to 20A with stock bulbs. The PC8 is rated for 15A continuous or 20A intermittently.
 

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Friends,
Two last questions regarding setting up my fuse block.
1. I am not seeing a fuse on my Denali fuse block? I see the relay inside, but no fuse. I was under the impression that there should be a 30 amp fuse somewhere. Sorry if this is an ignorant ?
2. I installed 10 amp flood lights from Richland Rick directly to an unswitched circuit on my fuse block. I am not sure what size fuse I should use.
Thanks for educating me.:yesnod:
P.s. I just searched Denali fuse block. Am I correct that the enclosed 30 amp relay is the safety fuse? If so, I still do not know what size fuse to install in the switched circuit for the lights. Richland Ricks harness comes with a 30 amp fuse for the on off switch, which I decided not to use. Thanks in advance.
 
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