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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off Merry Christmas everyone!

I was out for a ride with my daughter today after running an errand. We took the "scenic route" home. About 15 minutes from the house, at about 40mph the bike just died. Then started sputtering & choking/coughing a bit. Electrical is good. It smells "rich" when it tries to start. I called "The Boss" & she brought the truck with the ramps to pick us up.

I got it home, out of the truck & into the garage & it fired right up. When I blipped the throttle it back fired/choked & then died after less than a minute of running. When I turn the key on I don't hear the fuel pump "whine", but I hear the other ones you normally do when the key is on.

Keep in mind that I got home about 2 hours ago & haven't had time to check anything nor will I for a while. So I'm thinking fuel pump, but I REALLY hope that's not the problem because that things EXPENSIVE!!! I've searched on here & VSRI. Most searches kept coming up with fuel flow test. But if the pump isn't "whining" then how am I supposed to do a fuel flow test?

Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Again, MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!!!
 

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I remember reading a couple years ago that a fuel punp from a Suzuki Swift is the same but has to be mounted on the V-Strom sending unit. IIRC it is about 1/4 the price of a V-Strom unit. Hope that helps.
Good Luck and keep us updated on how you make out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After the holiday weekend & family being in town I haven't had a chance to really dig into it. I can tell you that while I was out in the garage last night trying to get some of the tornadoe straightened up I turned the key & listened. Usual electrical "whine", but I thought I heard the fuel pump TRY to do "something". Nothing happened, though. I checked the schematic & didn't see any fuses & such that leading to it. I'll dig into it as soon as I get a chance because MAN I missed riding to work this morning!!! :headbang:
 

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Just check you didn't jump the kill switch by accident. I've done before on a different bike and had half apart when I realized it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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If the fuel piump is dying, I doubt you would smell a "rich" smell. It sounds vaguely similar to the same issues others have had with the TPS. Just for grins, turn your key on, turn the throttle 4 or 5 times from stop to stop, then try to start your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If the fuel piump is dying, I doubt you would smell a "rich" smell. It sounds vaguely similar to the same issues others have had with the TPS. Just for grins, turn your key on, turn the throttle 4 or 5 times from stop to stop, then try to start your bike.
Hmmm.....I'll have to try that after I (at least) get the tank back on & hooked up. Just out of curiosity what does that do? I thought I tried that while I was stranded on the side of the road on Christmas Eve with my daughter, but I'll try it again.
 

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It resets the TBS...........
 

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turn your key on, turn the throttle 4 or 5 times

This action has been known to help on certain FI German bikes too.
It's magic but it works sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay guys/gals...here's the latest:

After I got some fault codes (C13, C21, C22) I got all the voltages I was supposed to get at the connectors. I also did the component tests stated in the repair manual. On this I didn't get ANYTHING! Both the air pressure & temp sensor. Also the green connector on the bottom right of the air box (can't remember what that one is called).

SO......I did the suggestion here of put it all back together, crank the throttle 4-5 times & try it again. NOTHING! :headbang:

Just for giggles I took fuel line off of the throttle body to see if when I "applied power" (turned the ignition on) would any fuel come out. Well.....NO! :furious:

OH....when I was following what the manual said it stated that if I wasn't getting any voltages to check pins on the ECM coupler. After wrestling that damn thing out of that stupid small hole.....I didn't get any resistance readings.

I put it "back together" & checked for codes again & received "C00". The manual stated that that means that the codes were either cleared or weren't there to begin with.

If anyone has ANY new ideas, other than taking it to the shop & paying a LOT of money for them to do the same stuff I just did, I'm open to them! I thought through this whole process that it was either the fuel pump ($600 because I can't seem to find the "replacement" one that some guys have listed here ANYWHERE), or either one of the pressure sensors ($200 a piece). OH!!! There WAS a new suggestion in the manual of a part to replace!! It said to replace the ECM!!! Uh....no thanks!

In an attempt (quite succesful I might add) to get a pressure sensor tester I went to Advanced Auto. That's where I got the idea of seeing if the fuel pump would even flow fuel hence the reason I tried that. They also suggested to see if the spark plugs were producing a spark. I haven't tried that, nor do I think I want to, because I seem to be getting electrical. The one main thing that I keep coming back to is that when I turn the key on I'm not getting the fuel pump whine at all! :confused:

I'm just completely at a stand still & NOT RIDING!!! :thumbdown:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just for giggles I was researching parts on Bike Bandit & saw the fuel pump relay. After testing it like the manual says, & just turning the key on, it works so that leaves that out as well. The list of things that "work" is growing faster than the list of things that don't! :confused:
 

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A TOS fault will show an FI at the clock position.
 

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After reading both threads twice I'm still missing the basics on what you have found :confused: but here goes...
1.) Put the bike in neutral, on the side stand, key off, engine STOP switch off.
Turn on key and wait 3 to 4 seconds then flip the engine STOP switch to the RUN position.
Did the fuel pump do its familiar pressure-up cycle?

2.) If the answer is NO...
Take a voltmeter and check for the presence of battery voltage (about 12VDC) at the fuel pump connector.
The positive (+) feed to the pump is the yellow wire with the red tracer.
The negative (-) is the black wire with the white tracer.

NOTES:
a.) I'd advise to back-stab the fuel pump connector while it's still attached to the pump during this test, (use two sewing pins if you don't have the proper test-tool).

b.) The only time you can do the test is immediately after performing step #1 above.
That's because the ECM will shut down the Fi system within three seconds of a "no run" engine condition, hence you only have a very short window to work with. If your using a digital meter, I would take it out of "AutoRange" mode before doing the test. (Just my 2 cents worth).

c.) If the fuel pump blows a fuse, the entire ignition system goes down, i.e. you would know immediately if it was a bad fuse, so no need to actually check the physical fuse.

d.) If you do NOT have battery voltage (about 12VDC) at the fuel pump connector, I would re-run the test with the negative lead of your voltmeter connected directly to the negative terminal of the battery (as these bike are notorious for having a piss-poor return path from the tank/connector assembly.

e.) This only tests for the presence of B+ at the pump. It does not test the pump control logic.
No need to get that involved yet.

Question: How many miles on the bike?

Sorry this post was so wordy. I should have posted a video.
Good luck & be sure to report back to us,
-Ej-
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
After reading both threads twice I'm still missing the basics on what you have found :confused: but here goes...
1.) Put the bike in neutral, on the side stand, key off, engine STOP switch off.
Turn on key and wait 3 to 4 seconds then flip the engine STOP switch to the RUN position.
Did the fuel pump do its familiar pressure-up cycle?

2.) If the answer is NO...
Take a voltmeter and check for the presence of battery voltage (about 12VDC) at the fuel pump connector.
The positive (+) feed to the pump is the yellow wire with the red tracer.
The negative (-) is the black wire with the white tracer.

NOTES:
a.) I'd advise to back-stab the fuel pump connector while it's still attached to the pump during this test, (use two sewing pins if you don't have the proper test-tool).

b.) The only time you can do the test is immediately after performing step #1 above.
That's because the ECM will shut down the Fi system within three seconds of a "no run" engine condition, hence you only have a very short window to work with. If your using a digital meter, I would take it out of "AutoRange" mode before doing the test. (Just my 2 cents worth).

c.) If the fuel pump blows a fuse, the entire ignition system goes down, i.e. you would know immediately if it was a bad fuse, so no need to actually check the physical fuse.

d.) If you do NOT have battery voltage (about 12VDC) at the fuel pump connector, I would re-run the test with the negative lead of your voltmeter connected directly to the negative terminal of the battery (as these bike are notorious for having a piss-poor return path from the tank/connector assembly.

e.) This only tests for the presence of B+ at the pump. It does not test the pump control logic.
No need to get that involved yet.

Question: How many miles on the bike?

Sorry this post was so wordy. I should have posted a video.
Good luck & be sure to report back to us,
-Ej-
Thanks for the idea/input! As soon as I get another day I can devote to this I'll try it.

To answer your first question....what I've found is that everything I test comes up good, but when everything is back together I get nothing. No fuel pump whine, no start/run. Nothing. I DO get "electrical" meaning everything else seems to be working. Every voltage I'm supposed to get with connectors on the bike "by the book" are correct. When I do the testing/troubleshooting on parts taken off of the bike I get nothing which, by the book, states that they're bad. Those are $200 a piece! :yikes:

I'm curious, though, about your test. Could it not be done with the bike on the center stand & just put the side stand down? Same principle the way I see it.
 

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I'm curious, though, about your test. Could it not be done with the bike on the center stand & just put the side stand down?
Same principle the way I see it.
Side stand can be up or down, as long as bike is in neutral, (your are correct).

So then, with everything together and the bike fully assembled, you do hear the fuel pump pressure-up soon as you flip the engine stop switch to the RUN position?
Thanks,
-Ej-
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Side stand can be up or down, as long as bike is in neutral, (your are correct).

So then, with everything together and the bike fully assembled, you do hear the fuel pump pressure-up soon as you flip the engine stop switch to the RUN position?
Thanks,
-Ej-
Haven't tried it as it's wind down time for my son. I'll try it tomorrow (if I can).

To answer your question with the bike together & I flip the kill switch to "on" I DO NOT hear anything from the fuel pump. Only other electrical components. Does that make sense?

Thanks for your suggestions!!!
 
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