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Discussion Starter #1
I am still having an intermittent fuel leak. I've not had the bike out for about two weeks. Started it yesterday and it leaked fuel again from up under the tank. I took a flashlight light and it is coming from near the throttle bodies. Shut the bike off and let it sit while I did something else. When I started it back up, it didn't leak. I went to the dealer and talked to a guy in the service department. He said to lift up the tank and start it. Look around the fuel pump at the fuel line. Maybe a leak there but he would have to look at it. He said to trailer it in and didn't recommend riding it.

When I started it this morning, no leak. I have removed the tank. It was definitely not coming from the fuel pump area. It seemed to be coming from where the fuel line goes into the throttle body. Unfortunetly, gas doesn't leave much residue so I can't tell where it is coming from.

It seems to only leak after it has sat for a week or more. Does anyone have any bright ideas? It's a beautiful day in Nashville after weeks of rain. I might slit my wrists if I can't ride. Please help. Thanks.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The usual culprit is the hose between the throttle bodies shown in blue below. Sometimes it may be the O-ring connecting the fuel rail to the throttle body. The near one is in green and the far one is un-colored.

 

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Get rid of all of those lousy factory crimp on fuel line clamps and replace them with some automotive fuel injection fuel line clamps. I started my Vee one night and everything was fine, nest time I started it fuel was showering everywhere. New clamps, one the piece of fule line between the throttle bodies, problem fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Greywolf, I have the tank and air box removed. Is the o-ring in the hose that connects the fuel pump with the throttle body? Or, is the o-ring in the aluminum tube colored in green?

While I am here, I am going to replace the hose that goes between them. I can't tell if it has a hole or not. There are two clamps that I am not familiar with on each end.

Thanks, Bill
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It's usually the clamps that cause the problem. They are crimp type and this type works better.

Don't use the following as they don't work with fuel injector pressures.

An O-ring is at the connection of each fuel rail to each throttle body for a total of two, not at the hose. O-rings connect solid parts, not flexible ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Problem looks like it is fixed. I replaced the hose and the o-ring.

If you ever have to replace the hose, it can be tricky to get it on. You only have about a 1/4" room between the two tubes. After messing with it for more than an hour, my brother came over and did it in 1 minute. Here's how. Take the hose and bend it in half with a pair of pliers. Put each open end on each tube at the same time. Give it a little wiggle and there you go. One 2" new tube is on.

The real test will be over the next few weeks. Since this problem only happened every now and then, I won't know if it fixed the problem. We'll see.
 

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This has happened to me twice now in the 2 1/2 years I have owned this bike. Each time it was only after not being ran for two weeks or so. Actually last time it was a month. The only time my bike sees this kind of downtime is during my annual vacation. Usually it's never down for more than 2 or 3 days at a time. Both times I turned it off restarted it and it went away like majic! Mine seems to be leaking at the Tee item # 11 in the above pic. Since it is only a once a year thing I have never pursued it any further.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Makes me wonder if there is a type of o-ring that needs gas sitting on it to stay lubricated. When it dries out, it leaks a little. Once it is started (and leaking) and then shut off, it seals itself.

Anyway, I replaced the little hose between the two. I also replaced the hose and two fittings that go from the tank to the green pipe colored above. I thought it could be the little gaskets in that tube. I will watch it.
 

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It's usually the clamps that cause the problem. They are crimp type and this type works better.

Don't use the following as they don't work with fuel injector pressures.

An O-ring is at the connection of each fuel rail to each throttle body for a total of two, not at the hose. O-rings connect solid parts, not flexible ones.
Hey Greywolf,

Wonder if you can tell me the size of this type of clamp that you recommend (or the size of the fuel pipe they go on to) per chance? How many should I buy to do a complete job?

Also how do I remove the lower part of the air box? I can see the 2 x clamps on the throttle bodies although the front looks more difficult to get to than the rear. Are they all I need to undo?

I'll then hopefully have the clamps in hand when I remove the lower part of the air box.

Thanks in advance!

Nordkapper
Cheers,
Nordkapper
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I don't know the hose size. A long screwdriver can be used to reach the throttle body clamps. With the clamps loosened, the air box can be lifted. There are a number of hoses and wiring connectors that have to be separated from the air box to finish the access.
 

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I don't know the hose size. A long screwdriver can be used to reach the throttle body clamps. With the clamps loosened, the air box can be lifted. There are a number of hoses and wiring connectors that have to be separated from the air box to finish the access.
Thanks Greywolf!
 

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Here in the metrically retarded US of A, you use 5/16 fuel injection hose.

5/16" = 7.94mm

Close enough...

Make VERY sure you're using fuel injection hose and clamps -- do NOT depend on the Autoclownz parts monkeys to have any idea what you're talking about. It's not their crotch that's going to be on fire...
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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So 8mm inside diameter would be the original size and 5/16" will work fine. Thanks for the info.
 

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Air box removal the easier way. Do not try to remove the band clamp from the front TB boot with a long screw driver. You are working blind which is fine dissassembling but bad when putting it back.

Leave the front TB clamp alone and just compress the rubber boot for the front body with your hands and push it down and out of the air box when pulling the box up. The rear TB clamp is removed with a screw driver as normal.

Then when reassembling, verify the front clamp is on correct and tight (even though you didn't mess with it) and squeeze the front boot until it pops back into its hole in the air box, then tighten the rear band clamp back up. Be sure the boot in front has its groove capturing the airbox plastic correctly, its easy to see. The band clamps for the boots have a specific orientation which the manual shows to prevent interference with the throttle linkage.

Its harder to explain than do.

As well as beiing easier to do...a big plus for me, you will know the front clamp is tight and on correct.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I like it Scott. Good idea.
 

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I dont know how I missed this thread. Must be because Ive never had a fuel leak. (that i knew of :jawdrop:)

I replaced my coolant on my 06 wee and had started it and was looking around making sure I didn't leave something loose. I see what I thought was coolant dripping onto the back of the front cylinder. I thought that was strange because I didn't do any work or tinkering there. When I let some drip on my finger I found it was gas !!! Then I was frantically trying to track down the source. Using a flashlight I found it. The very hose described above. It was just seeping out from the end of the hose that faces front, then down the injector and off the injector plug onto the motor! You know I sometimes smelt fuel when I first started the bike over the past year and I thought it was the bike running rich or something when cold. Now I'm thinking it was this leak! I didn't always smell it, just randomly and only during the warm up period. How in the freak are you supposed to get those clamps off!! Do you HAVE to remove the airbox? Removing it seems like allot of effort. I cant even see the clamp that attaches to the front intake. I don't know how I would get to it.
Oh, and used needle nose pliers to clamp down a tad on the clamp and now it does leak at all. But given what everyone else has said that's because it will stop itself and start again at a later time and stop again.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The air box needs to come off to get at the hose.
 

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Ok, so I unplug the little plugs, hoses etc from the air box. I loosen the clamp on the rear throttle body but where and how do I get to the clamp on the front throttle body? I cant even see that clamp but I know there has to be a matching one on the front throttle body also.
Let's just say I got both of those clamps loosened, does the air box just lift right off at that point? Then how hard is it to get those little boots back over the throttle body openings? I know on my old Bandit 600 those suckers required a bit of effort and thought to get them back on. My concern is if I could get it off, how do I know if the front is even back on? The way the frame runs, you can't even see the front one with the air box in place.
 
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