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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2007 Vee that doesn't register fuel level. The dash gauge shows empty all the time. I have pulled the pump each time I get a brainstorm on what the culprit might be, but to no avail. I have checked the pump side fuel gauge with an ohm meter both outside of the tank and inside with varying fuel levels. I get resistance readings that match the manual's estimated fuel levels. I have put resistors in the instrument gauge plug and I can change the indicated fuel level with different resistors, and the level/resistor combination matches what the manual states it should be. The float floats. But, after all this testing, when I plug it all in I still get no fuel level indication. :headbang:

Any ideas?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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So you can measure resistances on the wires from the pump and those look right. You can apply resistors to the wires to the gauge and they work. Are you testing both sides of the same connector? If so, it sounds like the connector isn't making good contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have checked it from the mating surface side. I have checked the wires thoroughly, and have tried repositioning the wires in such a way as to uncover any open wire within the insulation. I have been batting this around for months. It started when the original owner parked it for 3 months during the winter. When I bought it, I was sure it was gunk built up on the sending unit, no problem. When I took it apart, the tank was spotless, as was the sending unit, but I used a burnishing tool to clean the unit anyway. No change.
Just a quick stab, but I have been measuring for continuty, but not for power. I don't have the schematics in front of me, but there has to be power going through this. Does the power come from the gauge cluster, or pump circuitry?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The fuel pump has a Black/Light Green wire and a Black/White wire connected to the variable resistor in the tank which is the sender. The B/Lg wire changes to Yellow/Black on the other side of the connector. Disconnect the fuel pump connector and use your resistors on the Y/B and B/W wires. If that shows nothing, the problem is between the connector and the gauge on the Y/B wire or the B/W wire is open to ground.
 

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Don't forget to check for shorts to ground. One wire at a time and check them to the chassis. You are looking for no continuity... A partial short won't blow a fuse and will mess with your readings...
 

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With the tank connector disconnected (and key on) you should have 5 volts at the Y/B wire. If not, there is either an open circuit between the connector and the instrument cluster, or the instrument cluster is bad.

The sender is grounded internally with the pump. If there is a problem with the B/W wire, the pump will not operate.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Persistance may have paid off. I checked everything for the umteenth time, knowing full well the answer has to be somewhere right in front of me. Resistors will get me fuel level readings on the dash. Nearly 100% certain the issue is on the fuel sending unit side. 40 miles on a full tank of gas and I get 36 ohms. Approximately 96 miles and I get 84 ohms. I filled the tank up and I get 184 ohms. WTF? I am beginning to suspect a dodgy wire holding by a single strand or two somewhere inside the insulation on the sending unit side. Enough of a connection for continuity, but not enough for voltage. I never did like how the wire harness was doubled over when stashed under the tank.

Does anyone know where I can acquire a set of oem connectors? I looked at Eastern Beaver and came up a blank. May do better if I contact them. I would like to have a spare in case the wire is broken real close to the connector and I don't have enough wire left to do a good repair.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Contact Jim at EB. I'll bet he knows off the top of his head. Company
There is a $20 minimum order so get a headlight relay kit if you don't already have one.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Contact Jim at EB. I'll bet he knows off the top of his head. Company
There is a $20 minimum order so get a headlight relay kit if you don't already have one.
My plans precisely. I need a headlight relay for both my strom and my TL. I am putting projectors with halos on the TL, and hids on the Strom. :thumbup:

Will keep ya posted.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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HIDs normally come with a relay. The EB relay kit is superfluous with them as well as inappropriate for the Strom because high and low beams are not powered separately with a Bi-Xenon kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, Pat. Just saved me some bucks. :thumbup:
 

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Does anyone know where I can acquire a set of oem connectors? I looked at Eastern Beaver and came up a blank. May do better if I contact them. I would like to have a spare in case the wire is broken real close to the connector and I don't have enough wire left to do a good repair.
You can also get them here:

Corsa Technic Motorsport, Motorcycle Connectors

There's no minimum order.

Ron :mrgreen:
 

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Tiller4me,
Mind me asking which HIDs are appropriate for the Vstrom. Do you know if they run hot inside the headlight housing ? i.e. Is this a concern?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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35W HIDs put out more light and less heat than 55W halogens. You want H4 Bi-Xenon HIDs to use the HID arc as the sole source of light without a tacked on halogen filament yet retain high and low beams. 4300K lamps put out the most light per watt and appear whiter than halogens but not blue like the over 5000K lamps do.
 

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+1 - and look for telescopic H4s, not the ones with those silly butterflies to create a low beam cutoff. The telescopic action of those (telescopics) mimics the shifting focal spot of the halogen twin filament lamps so you'll get a very close approximation of the same beam cast.

I do not have these in my 'strom, but have set my FJR up with them which also uses H4 bulbs. They are very nice.
 

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GW: what is that windscreen on the bike in your avatar? It seems fantastically small (good for summer, I assume?)
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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GW: what is that windscreen on the bike in your avatar? It seems fantastically small (good for summer, I assume?)
It's an 11" MP sport screen. I use it unless it's really cold out or I'm doing a long trip. It really makes the bike feel like a sport bike. Sadly, MP is out of business. Their touring screens seem to have found a new life as Madstad screens, at least they are very much alike.
 
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