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Discussion Starter #1
I finally competed the mod to bypass the clogged fuel filter and splice in an automotive size remote fuel filter on my 2003 DL1K with 24000 miles.

Most problems have been solved but one remains which surprizes me.

Before mod:
chugging, lurching and sputtering while under load, below 3000 rpm.
coughing and crapping out between 3700 and 3900 rpm under part throttle, light load cruising.
poor throttle response, coughs when cruising below 3500 and cracking throttle open.
general feeling of unhappy motor below 4000 rpm.
During full throttle run-to-redline test, engine craps out BAD at 7500-8000. Ain't going over that!

After mod:
Overall, the exhaust tone is smoother, quieter, but...bigger?
the whine from the fuel pump is now not discernable during cruise.
Engine is not unhappy under 3000, no sputtering or lurching at all.:hurray:
Under NO load, in neutral, revving the engine now sounds like a Desmo. :yesnod:
Cruising between 3700 and 3900, it feels lots better, not amazing, but better.
BUT...:confused: during full throttle run-to-redline test, still falls flat on its face at 7500 rpm. :thumbdown:

Incidentally, it has new spark plugs, new air filter, perfect valve gap, etc.
Just had its 17000 mile service. ( I know, I know...at 24000 miles. sosoomee.)

So, maybe...throttle cable-linkage issues? Not opening butterflys fully?
Uhhh...still some air in the new remote fuel filter canister?

Honestly, if I was not purposely trying to test the fuel flow fix, I might NEVER see the top side of 8000 rpm. I ride like an old lady, mostly between 3k and 6.
 

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I would see if you can find a dealer with the ability to flash the 16 bit ECU. It sounds like that is the problem. On a 2006 1k I had stumbling and all the effects of fuel starvation and fixed it with a Power Commander, as I had added an aftermarket system from Holeshot
 

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Lean fuel problems usually occur at lower rpms. Things that come to mind include fuel. Did you check the output volume after the mod? Another thing is air. Did you check the air filter? After that, the valves come to mind. Since it has always been a problem, it could be a setup mistake like the valve timing being a tooth off or a bad sensor for the fuel injection. I had a similar problem on a CB500 Honda that turned out to be a charred inside on the air filter from a backfire.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Greywolf. No, I did not visually check the flow after the mod. Should have - life distracted me...just needed to quickly get it running again.
:new_shitsmiley: < (MoDaddy's life last week)


Question, though -what is the preferred method of keeping voltage to the fuel pump to get a constant flow long enough to measure it? When I turn the run switch to ON, the pump only runs for about four to five seconds. :confused:

And now for some reason, I have a mental picture of the air filter being in upside down in the airbox when I closed it up.
 

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Connect the Y/R wire on the fuel pump to the battery+ and the B/W wire to the battery- for 30 seconds. The spec for a new pump is 1200ml and problems begin at about half that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Questions:

The high-pressure fuel pump flow rate should be 1200ml (per hour?), that's only 1.2 liters per hour or 0.3 gallons per hour. Seems low.

What should the pressure be in the lines? Most FI systems run 50 to 65 psi.

Has anyone ever tried to replace the actual pump itself with one from a manufacturer, like Walbro or Bosch?

Has anyone successfully converted to an out-of-tank, in-line pump?

Last weekend I changed the fuel pump on my super-cage (7.4 ltr C2500 Suburban) by pulling out the entire in-tank assembly to R&R the pump with one from Delphi for about $100. There are three or four manufacturers that supply pumps that would fit, ( for less money and less life).
 

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The new pump flow rate is 1200ml in 30 seconds. One manual says 60 seconds in error, but that still is not 60 minutes. 43psi is the spec. I've read of a couple of replacements using Mitsubishi pumps, which is the manufacturer. That's only the pump section, not the mounting plate or fuel gauge sender apparatus. I've never heard of a external pump being used, only an external filter.
 

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Did she have the running problems before she went for her valve job?

Many threads of people putting cams back 1 tooth off

More SEAFOAM to clean injectors
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fuel issue update

Finally got some time alone with my bike and toolbox.

Already completed by the mechanic at Bikers Bay was the valve check, which was spot on, along with a spark plug replacement.
And supposedly, a throttle body sych was done but I have my doubts.

Afterwards, still running poorly, won't rev past 7500 rpm and the cough is still there.

Next I performed the fuel-filter bypass and addition of the in-line canister type automotive fuel filter. Also wrapped the filter and lines in heavy aluminum tape to guard against vapor-lock.

After that, there was a noticable difference, but the low-speed stumble and high-speed strangulation had not been remedied.

On the back porch this Saturday, I set to work on doing everything I could find listed in the posts here on StromTroopers, ADV and any links I could find about DL1000 fueling issues. (Note: I am determined to not buy a PC3 if I don't have to.)

I set up the tank on a small table on the left side of the bike, still connected to the fuel and electric.

First, I lubed every pivot, spindle, roller and spring of the throttle bodies with a dry-film lithium grease. Got all the moving parts to move with less tension.

Second, I checked for slack in the return cable. There was just a little at fully cllosed as it should be. Left it alone.

Third, I used a good quality Vernier Caliper micrometer to check the Secondary Throttle Plate balance. They were one milllimeter off at fully closed. That's a mile in any carburetor. Got them to within six-one hundreths of a millimeter (06/100). Triple checked, worked them back and forth, quadruple checked them; steady at 06/100 from zero. Close enough. Clear nail polish on the screw to make it stay.

Fourth, a Throttle Body Synch using clear plastic tubing and water for a poor man's manometer. It was so far off, when I fired up the bike, it sucked the water right up into the front TB before I could switch it off. Awesome...not.
With the engine off I adjusted the front TB screw to open it up a bit before trying this again. Filled up my manometer and clamped a couple of foreceps on the tubing to stem the flow if it was still way out. This time, it was close enough that I could at least start turning the screw before the water level made it up to the TB. Anyway, I successfully balanced the TBs to stay within an inch of tube at any rev. I'm getting happier now. Again, clear nail polish on the screw to make it stay.

Fifth, the black rubber caps that should have been on the TBS balance pitots had at one time been replaced with short lengths of vacuum line with machine screws in the ends. BAD BAD BAD. Screws don't hold air. I replaced those with proper plugs.

Sixth, I inspected and reset the Throttle Position Sensor.

Lastly, I tested the fuel pump for flow rate. Jumpered the leads over to the battery and placed the output from the auto filter into a two-liter bottle marked at 1200 ml. Wife was on the stop watch. (She keeps one in the nightstand.) Thirty seconds after clipping onto the battery, we had EXACTLY 1200 ml of gas in the bottle. The fuel pump should be good. THANK YOU JESUS!!

Oh, and btw GreyWolf, I DID find the air filter in upside down! :headbang:
As stated previously, I was having a bad week that day.

SO? SO? How does it run now?

It runs much, much better, thank you. Rode to work this morning (26 miles) and not a single stutter, stumble, cough, lurch or complaint. Low speed throttle control is as good as I could expect from any motorcycle. Roll-on from 2000 rpm is smooth and pulls strongly. Overall, it runs very smooth and you can feel the vacuum in the motor asking for more throttle.
I only had one opportunity to wring it out. Made it to 8500 rpm and the only gasp came from inside my helmet. :hurray:
 

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A bunch of little things can add up to big problems. Good work on getting everything to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It runs much, much better, thank you. Rode to work this morning (26 miles) and not a single stutter, stumble, cough, lurch or complaint. Low speed throttle control is as good as I could expect from any motorcycle. Roll-on from 2000 rpm is smooth and pulls strongly. Overall, it runs very smooth and you can feel the vacuum in the motor asking for more throttle.
I only had one opportunity to wring it out. Made it to 8500 rpm and the only gasp came from inside my helmet. :hurray:
Well...about a hundred miles later, and a few more opportunities to reach for redline...there's work yet to be done. ugh. C'mon Suzuki. Geez, the pos Harley was less trouble. :furious:

The weak spot between 3500 and 4000 is lurking beneith the surface of a smooth ride to work.
And we are still hitting a wall at 8000 rpm.

I have made an appointment with the local Ride Now dealership :eek:ut:, to give this thing a Yosh Box treatment. For $45 bucks, it's worth a shot. And I believe it will help, because...

The previous owner had performed the infamous Muffler Mod, where he drank a lot of coffee and went after the muffler ends with a 3/8" drill bit and somehow punched a gaping hole through the end of the internal pipe. This has done two things - 1) produced a hissing growl from the motor-anus (anii?) and B) likely weakened the tuned pressure wave that is meant to pull the exhaust past the valve to make room for the incoming intake charge. Hence the factory lean condition becomes owner induced fuel starvation.

As I researched the Yosh R-421, and how it 'writes' to the fuel map, it would appear that there are three partitions in the rev range - low medium and high. I wonder if the low range is from off-idle to 3999 rpm, where the map applies one specific algorithm, then at 4000 switches to one appropriate for the mid-range. And yet another at maybe 7 or 8k? Could that explain why there are 'lean zones' at the north end of each range?

Perhaps I should not wonder about such things.
But like that poor bedeviled cretin, looking up into the snarled face of Harry Callahan, "I gots to know."
 

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But like that poor bedeviled cretin, looking up into the snarled face of Harry Callahan, "I gots to know."
It's too bad it isn't Tuesday or I'd put some energy into a punny reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Went to pick up the DL1k from the Ride Now service separtment.

They had used the Yosh box to increase the idle/cruise circuit by +3.
And the accelleration circuit by +5 at all three stages.
Sounds like a lot. Hopefully my gas mileage won't suffer too much.

Test ride, the low speed torque is considerably improved.
Where before when rolling the throttle on from a gentle launch, the shocks would straighten out; now it would appear that the front tire is lofting for as long as I keep twisting the grip. Seat of the pants dyno says it goes from here to there sooner than it used to. There is no hesitation or surging at low revs. Performed a 180 degree turn in first gear at 1500 rpm, clutch out, smooth and easy. Very nice. Never could do that without something ugly happening.

but...

if I want to drag race, I'd be hard pressed to drive around a MeatBall Five.
At WOT 8500 rpm, it's like somone just shuts of the gas. [email protected]

Back at the shop, the mechanic believes that it's the fuel pump losing pressure. "All the injected bikes have problems with the pumps failing. I change them out constantly - especially the Suzuki's." In fact he just changed the pump on a Kawasaki KLV1000 (V-Strom clone). Well, ain't that just pee in my soup.

My confidence in this bike as a touring platform just took a dump.
 

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fuel bypass mod

Hi could you be so kind to direct me to the bypass fuel filter mod ??? I just replaced mine at 60K+ miles and should be good for a while but at $100+ next time may go with a bypass setup
 

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MoDaddy hasn't logged on here since 3/3/2015.
 

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Well...about a hundred miles later, and a few more opportunities to reach for redline...there's work yet to be done. ugh. C'mon Suzuki. Geez, the pos Harley was less trouble. :furious:

The weak spot between 3500 and 4000 is lurking beneith the surface of a smooth ride to work.


"
That's weak spot typical of all modern bikes. The emissions check is usually done at that range and they run extra lean there to make sure they pass. The Yosh box should fix that.

The high end no idea. I know my 2014 runs right out to the redline with no hesitation so it's not intrinsic to the type of engine. They are however restricted in 5th and 6th, try winding it out in 4th - somewhere there aren't police - that's still 'too fast' even in 4th. If that fails, see if you can find someone who services injectors locally, even better, see if they can find you a set of the Bosch injectors used on the later model bike - they are fairly generic.
 

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Since the OP hasn't been here in well over two years. I'm closing this thread.
 
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