Front Sprocket Lock Washer Stuck

Yup, ^^^ that will work. And the sprocket is about to get tossed anyway and replaced with a new one.

Yet another method: You could get a nice new sharp 1/8" drill bit. Use a center punch and make a good start on the outside edge of the washer so the drill won't wander around, let's say at 2:00 O'clock. Then you make a series of holes straight to the splined shaft. The last hole should end real close to the valley, not the peak of a spline.

Then you go over to the 8:00 O'clock position and do it again. Start at the outer edge, drill a series of holes in a straight line going closer and closer to the splined shaft. You don't have to worry about drilling too deep, the sprocket is sacrificial. It's also a lot harder and tougher than the washer.

This is called chain drilling, and I'm sure there are 100 YT videos showing you how to do it. It's a bit fiddly to get the holes to completely touch or overlap. Don't worry about it. Just get the holes pretty close, and then use the sharp chisel to connect the holes once they are all drilled. Once you connect the holes, it will pop right off with a chisel between the washer and the sprocket.

STCorndog said:

@LunarFirefly

BTW - that washer typically doesn’t spin. The washer should have had 1 or 2 sections that were bent 90 degrees against one of the flats around the nut. That way it prevents the nut from spinning. You need to flatten the bent washer tab first. Did you miss that detail when removing the nut?

Either way, the new washer should be installed with the washer bent up against a flat on the nut, after torquing the nut down tight.

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Hogges said:

Exactly. I used to own a 2017 and changed sprockets once. If I interpret the picture correctly, the washer was chewed up in the center because it rotated with the nut instead of being properly bent back flat first. Just take a large screwdriver against the sprocket on the outside of the washer and pop it out. It’s just sitting in there and the only reason it’s not just falling out is because the teeth are now wedged on top of the drive shaft teeth. But shouldn’t be hard to wedge it out towards you. No need to rotate it, I think. Next time flatten the washer first before removing the sprocket nut.

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Yeah this was my first time removing the front sprocket. I thought I had flattened it enough but maybe not?

I do have an update!

I ended up putting a rag over the sharp edge of a chisel and one tap with a mallet, the washer popped off. It took no effort at all. It's been slow going because I messed my knee up and am on crutches, but I'm getting things back together now.

It's not torqued down yet, and the washer isn't bent up to lock it yet. Hoping to do that a bit earlier tomorrow, get the rear wheel aligned again, and everything torqued down. I'm guessing I need to torque it down before measuring the slack in the chain? Also does anyone know the torque specs for the nut on the front sprocket? Or is that called the counter shaft? Still learning names lol.

Here's the old sprocket, and washer. Old one still had life on it it looks like. Not worried though. I had this front sprocket from when I had my Versys so it didn't cost anything to swap it out.

That is how much I flattened the lock washer before using the impact wrench. Is it possible it could have been wedged by the previous owner/manufacturer? Or maybe the socket I used managed to get enough purchase on the lock washer and spun it.

But regardless. I now have experience with doing this and have learned a lot.

Thank you everyone for all your help!

Yes, torque the countershaft sprocket to 105 ft/lbs before bending the tab onto a facet of the nut. The manual says to use thread locker, but with the torque, and the bent washer I do not consider this necessary.
Then adjust the chain.
Warning. Some people have experienced galling of the rear axle nut and axle thread by tightening to the recommended 72.5 ft/lbs. Far better in our experience to apply a thin smear of grease or coppercote to the thread and only tighten the rear axle nut to 55-58 ft/lbs.
I have a habit of applying a fine smear of either to the whole axle to prevent rust etc and make removal next time so much easier.

It is anyones guess what the PO may have done but you are starting with a clean countershaft and a new washer.
The teeth of a new washer are quite different from your used washer.