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Discussion Starter #1
I assume from searching that a 16T is good for the highway, if this is true what is the best to get, I don;t want a cheap one. Thanks
 

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i'm not sure what the other more experienced troopers will say, but i know i am coming up on needing to change my chain and sprockets and i am planning on buying a set from Blair at SV Racing Parts. he has an amazing track record for service and parts.

sounds like you've done your research, and already made your decision:mrgreen:
i'm sticking with the stock 15 tooth for my bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
16T

Thanks, but still want to verify that a 16T is for highway travel, I have a 250 mile commute to Western and West Virginia for riding pleasure, so want something that will travel well on the highway, I just want to confirm that going higher 16T will equal less RPM's is this correct?
 

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Thanks, but still want to verify that a 16T is for highway travel, I have a 250 mile commute to Western and West Virginia for riding pleasure, so want something that will travel well on the highway, I just want to confirm that going higher 16T will equal less RPM's is this correct?
That is correct, but it also means less torque. Why do you want a larger sprocket? The only real advantage may be slightly better gas mileage at cruising speeds. I think a lot of people switch to the 16T thinking it will result in less engine wear, but that is not true. Don't be afraid of running the wee at higher RPM's, it is happy to do so.
 

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Whether or not a person prefers a different sprocket is an individual choice. A 16T sprocket will lower the rpms by about 500 in 6th gear. Some people think that's great and report greater comfort. I didn't notice significantly more comfort. It may be because I have large diameter grips covered with foam Grip Puppies.

I found no difference in fuel economy when I tried it. Others reported to same experience. The lower rpms will drop put the bike lower on the power curve, produce less horsepower and require more throttle to hold the same speed as the stock 15T so make fuel economy a wash.

I did find torque significantly reduced by the lower mechanical advantage. After one long trip to the West rally in Colorado, I went back to stock.
 

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Ratio's

Theoretically, a larger front sprocket will reduce chain wear.......again, theoretically. You might do some searching to see if you can purchase a new rear sprocket with only +1 tooth less than stock. I believe I remember some members saying "1 tooth added in front is the same as deleting 2-3 teeth in the rear"?? I did this with my 2006 KLR650 (except the opposite......I added 1 tooth to the rear to help with "launches") and liked it.......made the bike a tiny bit easier to start from a redlight, but I could still run interstate speeds with no problems (vibrations) and it did not change the "character" of the bike that much.....just enough to notice it. I think I ordered my rear sprocket from Sprocket Specialists......they offered multiple ratios for my KLR at the time.

Just food for thought.............:confused:
 

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I forgot. Often the 16T sprocket of choice is from the GSX-R600, part #27510-20A10.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I really appreciate all the info, I think I'll stick with the 15T, I'm not one that likes to change things unless there really is a proven bebefit. I have a trip coming up next weekend to Natural Bridge, VA, will probably take the Wee, unless the weather turns bad, then I'll have to take the big girl
(03 Concours)
 

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I forgot. Often the 16T sprocket of choice is from the GSX-R600, part #27510-20A10.
I have the GSXR600 16T on the front. It lowers the rpms for a more relaxed ride on the highway at 70. But I am still getting used to shifting on the back roads. Gas mileage is a little better on the highway but lower at speeds between 40 and 55. I end up in 5th most of the time. I may switch back to stock 15T. I have a 17T from Blair K want to try before going back. Maybe.

The chain and rear sprocket from are working great after 1,000 miles needing no initial adjustment. And I have a 1 inch lift in the rear.
 

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me too, this is why I went to a 14 tooth. though I'm a back road rider (not slab)

I use the stock 15 tooth. I don't at all mind revving the Wee's engine, and only use less than 5000 rpm at lower speeds when it doesn't look like I'll be in need of what hard acceleration the Wee has. I just find it's much more responsive above 5000 rpm, especially when I'm riding the twisties hard. I still get 53 mpg riding like this. I will try the 14 tooth at some point, and might just like it.

I may try the 16 at some point as well. If I do it will just be for the fun of trying something different, I think. I honestly find for the few times I'm cruising at 130 KPH (80 MPH) for a half-hour or so I'm not running the engine too fast. Actually, I get so beat up by wind at that speed that what the engine is doing is of little concern, as long as it's not blowing up. Really, this accounts to so small a percentage of my riding time (and a much smaller percentage of my riding pleasure) that I'm in no hurry to change the gearing to slow the engine a bit. If I was commuting at those speeds daily, a change in gearing, windshield or bike might be in order. But I'm not.

I created a gearing spreadsheet for the 650, showing every combination between 14 and 17 at the front and 41, 43, 45, 47, 50 and 52 at the rear, and how they compare to stock gearing (15 and 47), and also showing different rpm at a few select speeds, and resulting speed at 5000rpm. The stock DL1000 comes in at one of the extremes on my chart (17 and 41), a full 30% difference in gearing, btw, from a stock DL650.

I did this so I could better follow the informed and uninformed debates on this site, and cut the crap from the real. But then I have an engineering degree and can be just a bit anal.

My spreadsheet shows that at about (a gps corrected) 120 KPH (75 MPH), I am running about 6000 rpm with stock gearing, and would run 6429 and 5625 with 14 and 16 tooth front sprockets, respectively. There are sites on the internet that will also give you this information. Or slap something on because someone says it's the cat's meow, it might just work for you. That's one of the beauties of chain drive.
 

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Using less oil at high speed with 16T?

I recall reading that the Wee will tend to blow a little oil when cruising at 85mph for a considerable amount of time, and was wondering if lowering the RPMs by 600 or so in sixth would help that problem? Any idea?
 

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Nope. When I had a 16T on or a 15T, I lost oil at 75mph and 5500rpm or 6000rpm. It seems to be a combination of rpm and air velocity through the ram air scoop in the air box that does it.
 

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My spreadsheet shows that at about (a gps corrected) 120 KPH (75 MPH), I am running about 6000 rpm with stock gearing, and would run 6429 and 5625 with 14 and 16 tooth front sprockets, respectively.
My real life experience with 14 & 15 tooth front sprockets almost coincides with your numbers. I register 1 mph less.
stock 15/47 sprockets @ 6000 rpm 6th gear
74 mph GPS
81 mph speedometer
14/47 sprockets @ 6430 rpm 6th gear
74 mph GPS
81 mph speedometer
Overall, close enough.
Thanks. Good site.
But then I have an engineering degree and can be just a bit anal.
Now put your engineering degree to work and show your anal-ysis abilities.
Tell us what's wrong with the site GW posted.
 

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My real life experience with 14 & 15 tooth front sprockets almost coincides with your numbers. I register 1 mph less.
stock 15/47 sprockets @ 6000 rpm 6th gear
74 mph GPS
81 mph speedometer
14/47 sprockets @ 6430 rpm 6th gear
74 mph GPS
81 mph speedometer
Overall, close enough.



Now put your engineering degree to work and show your anal-ysis abilities.
Tell us what's wrong with the site GW posted.
Close enough is, er, close enough.

Le site n'est qu'en englais? OK, I'll play a bit more with the site when I have time, and report back to you, sir.
 

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I just put on a 16 tooth because of my 76 mi commute. I use the diamond lane the entire trip which means 5500-6000 rpms or 80-85 mph indicated. Drivers here get irritated if someone bottlenecks the lane. So far, I am happy that I switched to a 16t. It suits my driving style. I will definately check the oil in the airbox more often.
 

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I will definately check the oil in the airbox more often.
The oil lost doesn't gather there. It atomizes and gets drawn through the throttle bodies. Check the air filter. While most of the oil vapor stays in the air flow, some will get deposited on the filter. Oil in the airbox normally means the bike has been on its left side.
 
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