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Discussion Starter #1
I’m replacing the stock fork springs with some Wilbers. I read the service manual and have one question.

How much compression is the fork spring under? Should I be worried about flying springs :shock: ?

Mike
Tampa, FL
DL650K5
 

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When you remove the caps, they will pop up a little. It is not that bad though. I had a second set of hands when we did mine. That will help when putting it back together. I have the same springs on mine. Nice improvement. BTW, I went with the recommended 7.5wt oil and 150mm airspace.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just finished replacing the springs and as you said there's very little "pop" went removing the fork cap. Also used 7.5 W oil and 150 mm of air space. Finished at 11 PM so I didn't get a chance to test ride it. Just pushing down on the forks while sitting in the saddle I can tell a BIG difference. The old springs really dived, not these.

Mike
Tampa, FL
DL650K5
 

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Where are you guys buying the Wilbers springs from? Are those a progressive or straight-rate spring? What weight spring?? Probably going to be a winter project for me. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got mine here;

http://wilbersusa.com/

Here's the reply from them when I asked about fork springs for the 650;

thank you for your interest in the Wilbers products.

Yes, we can offer you progressive fork springs for the DL650.

The set is $ 123.00.
The rate is 6.5 / 9.5 Kg/cm
We recommend a 7.5 SEA oil with a 150 mm airspace.
It took me about 3 hours to change the springs. Part of that time was spent putting the kid to bed plus letting the fork oil settle for 30 minutes. Next time when I need to change the fork oil it should only take about 90 minutes. Overall not a bad job, if you have the right tools. Some of the tools you might not have in your toolbox are;

12mm hex socket (front axle, hard to find Craftsman doesn't make one)
24mm socket (for the fork caps)
Torque Wrench

You'll need to use the above sockets so you can use the torque wrench when you put things back together.

A few tips;

Loosen the fork cap before removing the fork. The clamping of the fork in the fork clamp will hold the fork so you can loosen the fork cap.

When putting the fork back in the clamps don’t put the fork in its final position. Stop about 6 inches short and tighten the lower fork clamp bolt temporally. This will hold the fork while you tighten the fork cap. Then loosen the lower fork clamps and put the fork in it final position. If you put the fork in its final position before tightening the fork cap you’ll find out as I did that you can’t get a socket on the fork cap because the handlebar is in the way.

Read this somewhere and it’s a great tip; take a spray bottle like this, http://science.howstuffworks.com/question673.htm, take the bottle off and mark the plastic tube 150mm from the bottom. Fill the fork with oil, work out the air, then fully compress the fork and remove the excess oil with the sprayer, using the mark on the plastic tube as your guide for the 150mm airspace. I pumped the oil into the spray bottle for latter use.

Good luck,

Mike
Tampa, FL
DL650K5
 

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I too plan on making this a Winter project and have what might me a dumb question. Do you need to remove the forks from the triple tree? I looked in the manual and it shows removing the springs as part of the entire fork disassembly.

Wingman
 

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Discussion Starter #8
wingman said:
I too plan on making this a Winter project and have what might me a dumb question. Do you need to remove the forks from the triple tree? I looked in the manual and it shows removing the springs as part of the entire fork disassembly.

Wingman
Yes, the forks need to be removed so you can drain the fork oil. Sounds harder than it really is. Quick version;

Remove calipers.
Remove front wheel.
Remove front fender.
Remove forks.
Remove spring.
Drain oil.
Add new oil.
Insert new spring.
Put forks on.
Put on fender.
Put on wheel.
Put on calipers.

Read the manual for the details.

Mike
Tampa, FL
DL650K5
 
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I wanted to order wilbers for my 650-V here in Europe, and I checked what Wilbers website offers:
http://www.wilbers-products.net/shop/index_shop.html?gabelf_suzuki.htm

And there are two options for 650-Vstroms front springs

1) wilbers 600 = progressiv, order nr. 600-308-00
price 99euros

2) promoto 500 = progressiv, order nr. 500-308-00
price 79euros

Which ones have you installed?
And any knowledge what is difference between those springs?
Any worth spending 20euros more on 600-version springs?
 

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subagon said:
Yes, the forks need to be removed so you can drain the fork oil. Sounds harder than it really is.
Thats great, thx Mike!

What made you go with Wilbers instead of Progressive or Works? At 250lb I'm not what you would call tiny. I plan on riding the bike in Shenandoah 500 next year and trying to decide what would work best.

Wingman
 

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Discussion Starter #11
asteriksi said:
Which ones have you installed?
And any knowledge what is difference between those springs?
Any worth spending 20euros more on 600-version springs?
I have the 600-308-00. I emailed Klaus at http://wilbersusa.com/ and asked what springs they had for the DL650 and that's what they sent. They only offered the one option.

Mike
Tampa, FL
DL650K5
 

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Discussion Starter #12
wingman said:
What made you go with Wilbers instead of Progressive or Works? At 250lb I'm not what you would call tiny. I plan on riding the bike in Shenandoah 500 next year and trying to decide what would work best.
I emailed Wilbers, Progressive, and somebody else (Race something) and asked about their products. Klaus at http://wilbersusa.com/ provided me with the best information about his products. I'd also looked here on the messages forums and felt comfortable going with the Wilbers. I'm no motorcycle expert :roll: , but I feel that anything would be better than the stock springs so I couldn't go wrong. I weigh in at 235# with my gear and most suggested a spring rate of .95 or 1.0.

Mike
Tampa, FL
DL650
 
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