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I took my fender off after work today and was concerned about these fasteners. I sprayed them with PB Blaster and then waited a little bit. I wedged a screw driver along side the square nuts and then used my 3/8" drive impact wrench to remove them. Not much trouble since I was warned! I can't believe that they used what appears to be "permanent" thread locker on these connections.
 

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I really don't understand Suzuki's thought process on this one.
My guess. Someone somewhere had a front fender fall off or almost fall off. Suzuki legal heard about it and their answer was to put thread locker on the bolts. No more fenders falling off. When you screw things up, taking the bolts out, the repair is on you.
 

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Thank you for the tip. For this reason I chose to andd my fenda entender without removing the front wheel. Was a pain but I shied away from the issues you warned about.
 

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Forewarned is forearmed. Thank goodness for this forum and this post. One tip I can add is to reach up in the recess and put a smear of grease on the end of the bolt. I then jammed a screwdriver in-between the square nut and the recess. I could not see what I was doing but could feel when the screwdriver was properly jammed in. Then I was able to crack open the bolt without any problem and as it unscrewed the grease helped to ease it out and I could feel it getting easier and easier. Manufacturers over using locket is a a pain and reminds me of a previous era when Japanese makers used an air gun to do up all the crosshead screws holding a bike together. Without an impact driver it was impossible to get anything undone without mashing the screw head. I hardly ever need the impact driver these days, although still handy for the occasionally seized bolt/screw.
 

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You can't get the front fender off with out removing the front wheel. Somewhere along the way I missed that bit of information. Anyway the orange coated allen bolts came out without incident using a needle nose pliers poked up under the fender & grasping that "V" shaped inside plate. Now I can jiggle the fender for a little more room to put on that fenda extenda I hope.
 

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Glad I read about this. I would have run into it while reworking my forks with the Cogent Dynamics stuff. Now I have a plan for dealing with the fender.
 

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I ran into a different problem with the bolts on the fender. I didn't have much of a problem with the rear bolts with the nut/washer in the plastic fender. But the front bolts that screw into the forks were a problem. They too had some thread locker on them. The recess for the hex bit was so shallow that I had trouble getting enough bite with the bit that it ended up rounding it out. Luckily, there was enough of the mushroom head exposed after a few turns I could get vice grips on them. The bolts ended up with a nice knurling to the edges by the time I was done. Hard to see how they were worth $3.50 at the dealer, but I ordered them. I couldn't use a standard bolt because it has the standoff on the bolt so it doesn't crush the fender.

But I got the fork boots installed. :)
 

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I just removed the front fender on my 2015. It was actually pretty easy.

The key, I believe, was that I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads from the inside (after removing the front wheel). Then I let it sit for about 10 minutes, and used a close fitting Bondhus allen T driver and applied pressure until the bond broke. After that, the PB Blaster penetrated and all four screws came out fairly easily. I did not have to hold the square nut (except with my fingers pressing it back into the recess while spinning the allen wrench), or jam anything in there.

If you are going to do this job, get a can of PB Blaster (it's generally useful stuff to have around anyway, you are not buying it just for this particular job, you'll need it again sometime for something else).

And use high quality straight ended (not ball end) allens like the Bondhus T-handle set I have. Ball ends won't go deep enough into the relatively shallow recess and make it much easier to round out the hex recess.
 

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I removed my fender to install a Fenda Extenda without removing the front wheel. The first rear screw did not come out very well. The second rear bolt removed easier with I figured out I could wedge a screw driver next to the plastic tab holding the nut and remove the bolt.

Thanks for the info on this topic.
 

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Hello,
Yes you are right. I installed a FENDA EXTENDA, on my '13 Wee.
I had to use a 5/8' style wrench to hold the Sheet metal nut, and SOooo muck LOCKTITE, argh. To install I wire wheeled the old LOKWeld stuff off and used the normal stuff. 1,000 miles soon on it and my fender is still tight.
 

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I just removed the front fender on my 2015. It was actually pretty easy.

The key, I believe, was that I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads from the inside (after removing the front wheel). Then I let it sit for about 10 minutes, and used a close fitting Bondhus allen T driver and applied pressure until the bond broke. After that, the PB Blaster penetrated and all four screws came out fairly easily. I did not have to hold the square nut (except with my fingers pressing it back into the recess while spinning the allen wrench), or jam anything in there.

If you are going to do this job, get a can of PB Blaster (it's generally useful stuff to have around anyway, you are not buying it just for this particular job, you'll need it again sometime for something else).

And use high quality straight ended (not ball end) allens like the Bondhus T-handle set I have. Ball ends won't go deep enough into the relatively shallow recess and make it much easier to round out the hex recess.
Kroil is even better. Every home mechanic should have or mix your own!

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=pd_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=416kxyRAYML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1RG9RS577KN1D7C0XTJN

"Machinists Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all popular penetrates with control being the torque required to remove a nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

WD40...................238 LBS
PB Blaster ............214 LBS
Liquid Wrench.......127 LBS
Kano Kroil.............106 LBS
ATF -Acetone 50/50 mix ...53 lbs (Home brew)"
 

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Should have read this before attempting to remove the damn screws.

Solution to mount fender extenda: Add glue to it, put in place, fix it with paper clips. Worked like a charm.
 

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Hey all,
When I started my Fenda Extenda journey. I of course removed the EASY screws first, the ones that screw into the forks, The FRONT do those LAST.!, !.,
On those infamous REAR screws, after a good 50 revolutions I realized the base nut was SPINNING, under the fender.. So I took a big Screwdriver or 3/8 extension, or was it the 14mm open end wrench.?.? , and then I used the tire as a fulcrum and pushed The Nut in TIGHT in its Square holder, from the back. THEN I had to contend with the TOTAL Locktiteing of the Threads.! I regret not buying an Allen socket set.,.,.
Before re-installed the assembly, I wire wheeled the screws to clean that glue off. A little dab of Blue Loctite and 1,000 miles later, and it's still on. I also bought 3 Stainless screws 6/32 thread and Locknuts to fasten the Extenda, to the fender for ever. $40 for 3 plastic clips is not very comforting to me.,.
If I've missed something just ask.,. So, greasy side down, people.
 

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... and what seems to be a simple job turns into a marathon.
My life's story summed up in so few words. I didn't know that could be done. :furious:
 

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Fenda Extenda install on the 013 wee

Finally got around to getting the extender on with no real issues. All the fender screws came out with no problems, I didn't need to R & R the tire/wheel. Most of the time was eaten up with waiting for the glue to set up....:laugh2: I was in no hurry so we let it set up overnight with the clamps in place even though it was JB clear-weld abs epoxy. The only mounting issue I had was those rascal threaded metal plates (rear screws) so I taped them in place with black duck tape. All went together smoooooooth:thumbup:

I should add I did use a non-shrink black atv inside between the extender & the fender to keep out built up road junk
 

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no issues with fend-extenda install on my '13 Wee

I had same experience to senoje. After reading through this thread (thanks to all of you who provided prior warning on this issue) I was especially careful with those two back bolts, but with slow constant pressure they came undone without any issues with the backing nut (yes there was blue OEM thread lock on both back bolts, as well as the two front ones). I used ABS glue to bond the extenda onto the fender (I removed the adhesive strips first), clamped it and let it set up overnight. For added measure, I also installed two of the plastic expanding rivets at each side near the top joint, and I also applied black silicone caulk along the inside joint to keep water/gunk out of it. Its solid and looks good. Help up very well on initial 100 mile ride today.
 

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Just changed fork oil. If you do manage to get those fender bolts out, just toss them into the trash, they're worthless. The metal is just too soft. I nearly stripped the heads just removing them. Just go to the store and get the right size replacement hardware.
 
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