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Discussion Starter #1
While my L2 Wee is not horrible, it does have more front end dive when braking fairly hard than I wish it had. Will tightening the preload a little help out? Or does this require more extensive mods?

I currently have the fork preload set at the factory #3 setting. Also, if it helps with recommendations, I an 5'10" 225lbs.
 

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Nothing you can do about the dive, the weight gets transferred to the forks when you grab a handful of front break, preload will not do anything, it just changes the sag. I think that why BMW went to the design with the control arm.
I use the rear break first and use the front to modulate the breaking.
 

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I've heard people comment that the dive is lessened quite a bit when they upgrade to stiffer springs. Sonic springs would resist dive better than their counter part Progressive's.

Preload only adjusts the initial sag of the suspension. Not the stiffness of the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That is what I thought, preload is only for sag. The dive is not bad enough that I need to do anything about it soon, so it is pretty low on the upgrade list.
 

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Wow, I thought the front end was too tight and harsh, so I backed off the pre-load a bit and the rear shock pre-load a click or two.

I hadn't noticed any real dive when braking, but haven't had to brake too hard either.

I only weigh about 165lbs fully geared, so maybe I'm not as heavy on the suspension.
 

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I didn't think the dive was particularly bad, but when I installed a Superbrace it went away completely.
 

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A slightly stiffer straight-rate (not progressively wound) will do wonders for dive.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow, I thought the front end was too tight and harsh, so I backed off the pre-load a bit and the rear shock pre-load a click or two.

I hadn't noticed any real dive when braking, but haven't had to brake too hard either.

I only weigh about 165lbs fully geared, so maybe I'm not as heavy on the suspension.
Fron end is tight when riding. Like I said the dive is not that bad, just a little more than I would like to have. My fat a$$ probably doesn't help :mrgreen:

I didn't think the dive was particularly bad, but when I installed a Superbrace it went away completely.
A fork brace is on the farkle list, maybe it will help me out.
 

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Like I said the dive is not that bad, just a little more than I would like to have. My fat a$$ probably doesn't help
I wasn't going to say anything about your weight, but since you did.....:mod_biggrin:
 

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A spring that better matches the loaded riding weight is a help. Improving the damping is a big help. Either the RaceTech cartridge emulators or the Ricor Intiminator damping valves work well. The need was much more in the pre-L2 wees.
 

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I rode a stock 650, then a modified 650. I decided if I bought a stock one, the first thing I'd do is the front forks. Stiffer forks (and a brace) will elimiate the dive :)
 

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lower preload?

this might get some flak from troopers but:

won't bottoming out stop the dive? if you lower the preload so that you're riding on the lower portion on the suspension travel, your brake dive will stop with a CLUNK, but it will stop
 

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Of course everyone's perception what's acceptable dive varies. Brake dive is an inherent function of the fork designs. How does the rest of bike feel to you - is it tight or bounces all over the place - firmer spring as well as compression damping will reduce the rate of dive, but may reduce the amount of bump absorption of capability.

Preload deals with fork's initial position in the travel range - more preload means more available dive before bottoming out, but it does not change the rate of dive.

if you are happy with all other aspects of the front, perhaps try reducing the air space in the fork by topping up with a little more fork oil.- this give u the same initial damping but firming up as you go towards the last 1/3 of travel.

While fork brace is very nice to have and i recommend it for other reasons, it wont solve much of your dive complaint.
 

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For what it is worth, on the recommendation of a fellow rider and engineer to test the ABS brakes and understand how they may work if really needed. I guess some would question of the sanity of it.....
I was on a country rode with absolutely no traffic and got my speed to about 40 mph and layed on the brakes. Granted I did it twice, the first not quite so hard and the second was as hard as I could. First of all, I was absolutely amazed at how fast the bike actually came to a stop. Second, was no skidding and "almost" absolute control. Third, didn't notice any excessive dive of the front end. I am 200 lbs and 5'11", 32" inseam, etc.
 

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The brake dive can actually be useful in that it reduces the rake of the fork and helps with "turn-in." Then on the acceleration out of the turn, the rake increases adding stability. It's not necessarily a completely bad thing... Racers and race tuners utilize the brake dive as part of suspension setup.
 

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For what it is worth, on the recommendation of a fellow rider and engineer to test the ABS brakes and understand how they may work if really needed. I guess some would question of the sanity of it.....
I was on a country rode with absolutely no traffic and got my speed to about 40 mph and layed on the brakes. Granted I did it twice, the first not quite so hard and the second was as hard as I could. First of all, I was absolutely amazed at how fast the bike actually came to a stop. Second, was no skidding and "almost" absolute control. Third, didn't notice any excessive dive of the front end. I am 200 lbs and 5'11", 32" inseam, etc.
Well, I don't think it is a bad idea at all to do a controlled test of your ABS. I personally would recommend that everyone try it out and learn the dynamics for when they really need it. Just as you want to test your brakes without ABS to help understand where lock-up might come into play.
Also I don't feel there is excessive dive to the front forks....I came over from the KLR side where you really do have excessive dive unless you install some progressive style springs. I think Suzuki has engineered a pretty good compromise with the new suspension which I understand is an improvement over the older DL's.
Also, can someone explain to me why a fork brace on the new DL would change the dive characteristics.....
 

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While my L2 Wee is not horrible, it does have more front end dive when braking fairly hard than I wish it had. Will tightening the preload a little help out? Or does this require more extensive mods?

I currently have the fork preload set at the factory #3 setting. Also, if it helps with recommendations, I an 5'10" 225lbs.
How much do you weigh?


this might get some flak from troopers but:

won't bottoming out stop the dive? if you lower the preload so that you're riding on the lower portion on the suspension travel, your brake dive will stop with a CLUNK, but it will stop
Correct. And then all additional input forces will be transmitted straight to the bike. And you.

Very few motorcycles, even expensive ones, have a suspension that is properly set up for larger riders. changing the front springs is one of the cheapest and easiest improvements you can do. And we have guys like Rich Desmond (who answered a question for me about the right spring rate from Alaska) to help you get it right.
 

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Check out this spring rate calculator.

Not sure what the stock rate is but the GenI was grossly undersprung for most North Americans. New ones are $80 from Sonic or others.
 

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I'm quite happy with the suspension on the Gen2 Glee. When I sell my old bike, the Traxxion forks and Elka shock are staying on it.
 
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