StromTrooper banner

121 - 136 of 136 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Hmm... much appreciate for the pics. I really cant tell because of the angle. But i tried re-seating them and even tapping with a plastic mallet but they seem to be at an angle still.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
Discussion Starter #123
Hmm... much appreciate for the pics. I really cant tell because of the angle. But i tried re-seating them and even tapping with a plastic mallet but they seem to be at an angle still.
I assume you've cleaned out the port of any corrosion/gunk that might keep the union from seating?
Do they fit differently without the O-ring installed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
They are cleared of debris, etc. You can bolt it down without the washer just fine, but neither sides are straight in their bore and unless you are looking from the top I do not think you can see this. So yours may be cocked towards the bolt but you cant see it from the angle the pics were taken. This is my guess.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
Discussion Starter #125
They are cleared of debris, etc. You can bolt it down without the washer just fine, but neither sides are straight in their bore and unless you are looking from the top I do not think you can see this. So yours may be cocked towards the bolt but you cant see it from the angle the pics were taken. This is my guess.
Maybe, but nothing looked untoward to me when I assembled it. Hard to say without removing the throttle bodies, which is something I may have to do sooner than I would like. See next post...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
Discussion Starter #126 (Edited)
I got the second of two FI codes today when I went to fire it up to leave work. Almost exactly two weeks ago it did the same thing. I'm glad it did it back then so I know I can rule out the new TPS which I have installed in the meantime.

I fear I may have to have the injectors cleaned or replaced. Or maybe the ECU or an oxygen sensor, or possibly the fuel pump (though I doubt that because it red-lines just fine). I guess I have to get a code reader on it or catch it in dealer mode when it happens.

Here's what happens:

Both times, hot afternoons after the bike had been sitting in the sun after being ridden in the morning. Turn on the key, red light on dash and FI on the dash. Fuel pump does not cycle. Nothing else strange. Not sure if the gauges swept or not. Have to watch for that next time.

Turn off the key, turn back on, all is well. For now, at least. No FI code, pump primes normally.

I'm pretty sure this must be related to the surging issue which has definitely not gone away. In fact, I'm thinking it may be worsening. This could be related to increased temperatures. Both times were on the hottest days of the year so far, and the surging seems worse when hot. The only other thing I can think of is a plugged fuel vent. Sometimes on a hot day I think I catch a whiff of gasoline but that could just be from the old hardened cap seal which would mean it's not a vent issue anyhow.

Anyway, tomorrow is supposed to be stinking hot, so I'll put it in dealer mode for tomorrow's commute and see what I see. Already dumped in new fuel and injector cleaner.

Anyone have any other ideas?

...Further investigation reveals the following thread which suggests an electrical connection problem (a bit of vintage Greywolf): https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-2002-2012/68797-fi-light-comes-bike-wont-start-4.html
 

·
Official Stromtrooper.com Sponsor
Joined
·
5,264 Posts
Get the code out of it before you worry what it is.

Would not be surprised to see a C42!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Larolco:

As you know, all of those connectors except the fuel pump are attached to the radiator shroud. I have mine disconnected right now and they are mostly all oxidized. I am going to use a electrical contact scraper on them. The fuel pump harness I believe is in the general area where the tank mounts, will have to go look.

On a side note, I took the water outlets apart again and fitted with and without an o-ring in the bore, measuring depth. With no o-ring, the outlet sits flush with the mount surface. With the o-ring on there, well you know the story. I am convinced at this point that they are just like that, tilted off center. I just don't understand why they would engineer it this way.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
Discussion Starter #129
Larolco:

As you know, all of those connectors except the fuel pump are attached to the radiator shroud. I have mine disconnected right now and they are mostly all oxidized. I am going to use a electrical contact scraper on them. The fuel pump harness I believe is in the general area where the tank mounts, will have to go look.

On a side note, I took the water outlets apart again and fitted with and without an o-ring in the bore, measuring depth. With no o-ring, the outlet sits flush with the mount surface. With the o-ring on there, well you know the story. I am convinced at this point that they are just like that, tilted off center. I just don't understand why they would engineer it this way.
Something isn't going together correctly. Have you tried lubing the O-rings? They should sit flush I think, esp if they do without the rings installed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
Discussion Starter #131
Two days later, maybe 30 cycles of the ignition switch, cannot repeat it.

One thing to note, however, is that the temperature is significantly cooler today than it has been for a couple of weeks and the surging phenomenon is drastically reduced. So, the surging seems to be temperature related.

I expect once it hots up this afternoon, the surging will once again become more pronounced. It's most noticeable between 3000-4000 rpm.

Going to do another TBS this weekend since it was set with the old TPS which is now replaced. I expect that will make some difference. I will report back with results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Man, I just had the airbox off Friday. It would have been so easy to see. I'll try to get a look for you tomorrow.

Today's project was the windshield. After 13 years it was pretty yellowed and beaten up. A couple weeks back, I crossed the border to ride up Mt. Baker; the border guard's first comment was, "I bet you can buff that right out." That's how bad it was.

Anyhow, for kicks, I put a buffing pad on a drill and used some glass polishing compound.

Here are before and after pics.

I also gave it its seasonal bath.

I’m curious, what polish did you use? And was it really plastic polish, or did you use actual glass polish? I thought the only thing that could really polish glass (get scratches out) was cerium oxide, though I could be wrong on that. Just wondering...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
Discussion Starter #133
It was 3M glass polish, not plastic.

Just what I had access to, kind of on a whim.

It had some interesting ingredients, for sure.

I think I need to finish it with some plastic polish because it is swirly in the sun. I'll probably give it another going over as well since I did it pretty quick, just to see if the windshield had any hope.

I don't think I mentioned, I did the headlights too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
I wouldn't be surprised either, after reading that thread. No codes yet today.
Get the code out of it before you worry what it is.

Would not be surprised to see a C42!
Well, no code for two months....

Until today!

I've been on a multi-day two-up road trip with my wife and, after a hike at Smuggler Cove this morning, I went to fire it up and no fuel pump prime and the dash showed the expected C-42.

So, that's that.

Still has the uneven throttle/surge issue though. Some days it is more prevalent than others.

And, on the odd occasion, the pump will prime for twice its normal duration. Dunno if that's related to the ignition switch or not.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
Discussion Starter #135
Update on C-42 code. It's done it a few more times since. Always goes away when the key is turned off and back on again.

Also, regarding the surging, I have ruled out the fuel pump I think. While the bike is down with charging issues (there's a separate thread on that saga), I performed a fuel flow test. Three repetitions of the prime cycle produces over 300 ml of fuel, which seems to be the benchmark according to an old post by John of Char.

Had the pump not been up to snuff, I think I would have thrown in the towel and called it a day.
 

·
Official Stromtrooper.com Sponsor
Joined
·
5,264 Posts
I dealt with the C42 code the whole time I owned my 2003 DL 1000. Always started....after some intervention.

BTW, cycling the kill switch works the same way as turning the ignition key on/off and is easier/quicker to do.
 
121 - 136 of 136 Posts
Top