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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
06 Wee 17K, changed fluid when purchased 2 years ago.

(not sure how to describe it) When stopping, the front brake does not evenly or smoothly stop, but is more of an uneven clunk towards the end of stopping and the front end dives down. Its an intermittent problem

No leaks, pads still good. I looked in the manual, nothing about regular maintenance for taking apart the brakes. I'm guessing something is binding? I'll guess brake caliper sliding pin?

I read one old post with a reply for a similar problem("bet its the end of the brake lever, where it pushes on the master cylinder. That spot is dry, and it is chattering as you squeeze the lever, resulting in the exact non-linear brake feel you are describing")

not sure what that means, didn't say how to fix it, if that's what the problem is....
 

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I've been experiencing the same thing, and my answer, once I get the time to do the work, is to install the new brake lines and pads sitting in the box in the garage.

My wee is two years older than yours, but with similar mileage. With the low usage I'm never surprised when things like brakes don't perform as nicely as they should. The lines get mushy, the fluid breaks down and absorbs water, and the pads harden with age.

Once I get the new brakes on all around, then I'll assess whether my other suspicion is correct, that there is some fork stiction going on, contributing to the same feeling.
 

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The dive will relate to the brake grab. You can try removing the brake pads and lightly dressing the surface with fine sandpaper. Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pad friction material across that to remove a very small amount of the friction material. Keep it flat. Clean everything, lube the caliper pins with brake caliper lube, and reinstall. Pump the brake levers to place the pads against the discs, and test ride.

If they are still grabby, try sanding the discs very lightly. There should be no movement between the two parts of each disc.

The brake fluid should be renewed every two years.

Brake hoses rarely weaken and bulge. It can happen, but it isn't common. KZDon, how about changing one thing at a time on your brakes and take a test ride before you change the next thing. This way you'll know just what fixed what.
 

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I read one old post with a reply for a similar problem("bet its the end of the brake lever, where it pushes on the master cylinder. That spot is dry, and it is chattering as you squeeze the lever, resulting in the exact non-linear brake feel you are describing")

not sure what that means, didn't say how to fix it, if that's what the problem is....
This one is simple, and you might as well try it... just get a dab of grease in there. I use a tiny glob of waterproof grease on the end of a small screwdriver. Or, remove the lever, clean everything up, then grease the pivot as well as the contact point mentioned.
 

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... lube the caliper pins
^^This^^ and more.
I've found dirty and/or corroded pins are the single most cause of deteriorating brake performance on MY bike. Unfortunately, the cure only lasts ~1K miles before I notice them sticking again. It does get increasingly worse.

Before lubing, clean and polish the pins.
 

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Brake hoses rarely weaken and bulge. It can happen, but it isn't common. KZDon, how about changing one thing at a time on your brakes and take a test ride before you change the next thing. This way you'll know just what fixed what.
Great idea, but the amount of spare time for wrenching I have can be counted with an egg timer.

I ordered up a full set of Galfer lines and pads. I have fresh fluid sitting there and a can of brake cleaner. I'll pull everything apart one night this week and get it all replaced, including cleaning the calipers. In the grander scheme of things I want good and reliable brakes. How I get there isn't a big issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I removed the lever, cleaned and lubed it, then put water proof silicon grease on the stationary receptacle where the lever attaches to , I am amazed but that solved the problem..
The brake lever is not OEM, maybe that contributed to the issue

Thanks for that suggestion BW.
 
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