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Discussion Starter #1

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Blair at svracingparts.com has RaceTech gold valves for both compression and rebound.
SVRacingParts.com

Ricor Intiminators are for damper rod forks like the 650, not for cartridge forks like the 1000.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
when I say bouncy, I prolly coulda used a better description, no problem with high speed damping, goes over washboard nice, its the speedbump kinda bump, feels like I'm gonna wheelie

I'm still getting use to the new suspension, back to stock dogbones and put fork back to stock position, since 600 mile service to now 60k, its been lowered

even though the front is not perfect, it's still waay better than before



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when I say bouncy, I prolly coulda used a better description, no problem with high speed damping, goes over washboard nice, its the speedbump kinda bump, feels like I'm gonna wheelie

I'm still getting use to the new suspension, back to stock dogbones and put fork back to stock position, since 600 mile service to now 60k, its been lowered

even though the front is not perfect, it's still waay better than before
Straight rate springs? The reason I ask is because my K75 *is* bouncy and I attribute it to the progressive rate springs.

On the Vstrom, I went from stock springs to 1.0 springs for a few years and then I started experimenting. Went up to 1.1, too hard. Tried .95, better, but on panic braking with full luggage, it would bottom the forks. Back to 1.0 now, but still experimenting with Racetech emulator settings and oil weights.
 

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I did the race tech gold comp and rebound valves last year when i put in the .95kg racetech springs. The paperwork that came with the vales is confusing as all hell. Once i figured it all out, no big deal. The valves are very adjustable, but you have to take it all apart and change shims to do it.



I am happy with the setup i have now, might mess around with it sometime to make it better but no time for that anytime soon.
 

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1.2kg

:blush:

Randy,

1.2 is a little stiff for you, and the 15w is too much also. Try going down to 10w first and see how that is.

There is an imbalance in the compression and rebound, too much of the former. The Gold Valves will help with that.
But try just 10w first.
 

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350lb payload minimum solo :confused:
Look at it this way...on the old Kawasaki Concours for a 200 lbs guy we put in 1.1 springs. That bike is about 150 lbs heavier than the Vee. And bike weight counts just a little more than rider weight in loading the front end, since the rider's weight is more rearward biased than the bike's weight is. So 350 + 530 would take a slightly softer spring than 200 + 680 does.

All that aside, IMO in your situation the compression damping is a bigger issue than the spring rate is. Get that sorted out and then evaluate the springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Look at it this way...on the old Kawasaki Concours for a 200 lbs guy we put in 1.1 springs. That bike is about 150 lbs heavier than the Vee. And bike weight counts just a little more than rider weight in loading the front end, since the rider's weight is more rearward biased than the bike's weight is. So 350 + 530 would take a slightly softer spring than 200 + 680 does.

All that aside, IMO in your situation the compression damping is a bigger issue than the spring rate is. Get that sorted out and then evaluate the springs.

I notice that on yer sonic springs website, the heaviest spring you sell for the Vee is a 1.1

when I use your rate calculator, it says 1.2, when I go to race tech site, it also calcs to 1.2, the guys in Austria at WP Suspension also came up with 1.2
as I said, high speed compression/rebound is right on, I can tear ass up a washboard gravel road like crazy, even the bigger potholes aren't that bad

the feel of the fork is great compared to stock, just not quite up to par with the ride coming from the rear, and I really didn't expect it to be, just trying to figure out if its possible to improve the oem fork a little more



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I've got 1.2 racetechs in my forks too with a sasquatch rebuilt shock. At his recommendation I put Sythetic ATF in the forks (mobil 1 is what I used) which should be around 7wt. Personally I really like the feel of the combo so may be something you want to try before doing the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just went to the racetech site and went thru the spring rate calculator routine, I noticed this comment

Comments: Rebound Gold Valve recommended with a 1.3mm (#55) bleed.
my thought in the ride is that the compression rate is off, but maybe rebound

symptom is when going over a speed bump (hump up) type bump, the front feels loose right after the bump, like yer on the verge of lofting the wheel

washboards, rides and handles great, as well as hitting dips and holes



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...symptom is when going over a speed bump (hump up) type bump, the front feels loose right after the bump, like yer on the verge of lofting the wheel...
That's too much compression damping. Instead of the wheel moving freely up and leaving the chassis (relatively) undisturbed the excess compression is forcing the whole front of the bike up. That upward motion has inertia obviously, and so continues even after the wheel has passed the crest of the bump. That makes it difficult for the fork to extend quickly enough to track the bump. You solve that specific issue by reducing rebound, but that causes other problems. Reducing compression gets things back in balance.
 

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travel

Might try an old dirt bike trick, which is to put a ziptie in the front fork just above the seal, just tightly enough that it will stay put, but can be pushed by the slider. Go hit your local speed bump. The ziptie will show you how much travel you are using. If the spring or compression damping is too stiff, probably won't be using the entire stroke. Clearly a lighter spring or lighter fork oil is needed in that case. Try light oil (5 wt?), retry, see if travel improved. If you are getting nearly full travel, outside chance your rebound damping is excessive, not allowing the suspension to extend fast enough to follow the paving, leaving the wheel floating in the air for a bit.
 
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