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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
if i'm rocking the .95 now, i think really my question is how should i decide between .90 and .85?
how much difference does .05 make on fork springs? is it much noticeable?

I've been on the sonicsprings site and based on my weight the calculator gives me
.95 for [sport bike - normal street]
.90 for [sport touring - aggressive street]
.85 for [sport touring - normal street]


I'm running a set of Racetech .95 springs with gold valve emulators (whatever that is) in my fork right now. bought the bike this way from the PO who had a few inches and maybe 20 lbs on me.

the front end feels pretty stiff. i have the adjuster knobs on the top of the forks dialed all the way out to get enough sag on the bike. i'd like to get a lighter weight spring.

i'm wondering if i should step down to a .90 or .85 spring, and how much difference i'm going to feel from each one respectively. i've only had progressive springs before and i don't really know much about this. thoughts or advice?



odd thing is, racetech site recommends a .95 spring for my weight. i have heard some say their advice is more geared towards aggressive street and track riding though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
A lot of us use Sonic springs. Here is the sizing chart.
SonicSprings.com
Thanks there,

edit:
I've been on their site as well and the calculator gives me
.95 for [sport bike - normal street]
.90 for [sport touring - aggressive street]
.85 for [sport touring - normal street]

if i'm rocking the .95 now, i think really my question is how should i decide between .90 and .85?
 

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springs

maybe open up at least one fork and see what you have before ordering anything?
 

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Email or PM Rich Desmond at Sonic for his recommendation. He's a strom rider and really knows bike suspension.

Check your sag. 40mm both front and rear is a good target. Take the weight off the front and wrap a cable tie around an upper strut tube snug against the dust seal. Wearing riding gear, sit on the bike, maybe with a helper, and note how much the cable tie is pushed up fork tube. Get off, raise the front again, and measure the distance. Adjust with the preload adjuster or the length of the spacer inside the fork tube to get close to 40mm. Do the same for the rear with your helper measuring the sag.
 

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how much difference does .05 make on fork springs? is it much noticeable?

I'm running a set of Racetech .95 springs with gold valve emulators (whatever that is) in my fork right now. bought the bike this way from the PO who had a few inches and maybe 20 lbs on me.

the front end feels pretty stiff. i have the adjuster knobs on the top of the forks dialed all the way out to get enough sag on the bike. i'd like to get a lighter weight spring.

i'm wondering if i should step down to a .90 or .85 spring, and how much difference i'm going to feel from each one respectively. i've only had progressive springs before and i don't really know much about this. thoughts or advice?



odd thing is, racetech site recommends a .95 spring for my weight. i have heard some say their advice is more geared towards aggressive street and track riding though.
I'm pretty sure you'll find a short aluminum spacer inside your fork - Racetech springts are shorter in physical length then stockers, and if you're close to the correct preload with the current spring then you can fine-tune somewhat with that.

Sag is sag is sag, and there is only one correct setting for sag - roughly 1/3 of your total travel. Did you measure it? Or are you going by feel?

If you have that set correctly and the fork is too stiff for your liking, then you must look elsewhere to tune it. You can do that by decreasing the level of oil in the fork (increasing the 'air spring' within), or by going to a lighter weight suspension fluid. I'd probably try them in reverse order - drain the fork and refill with 5 wt, especially if you don't know what's in there now. Then try decreasing the oil level 25mm at a time. Not sure how far you can take that though, I'd hesitate to do any more than 50mm. If you still want it plusher then you're going to have to go into that cartridge and get someone to swap shims within it.

Last: Don't rule out stiction as the source of roughness. If the fork is not carefully aligned it could be binding a bit and that will affect its ability to respond to smaller road imperfections most noticeably.

N.
 
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