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Hi, I just did a fork seal service / cleaning on my 2013 650 with a Seal Master tool. What happened was I increased the pre-load on both sides of my forks a few weeks ago, shortly after I noticed I had leaking on one side an I'm thinking it was just a coincidence that I saw it shortly after the adjustment.
The cleaning appears to have done the trick as it should. I backed the pre-load screws way out before doing some static pumping to test it and all seems fine.
A couple of questions??? Does adjusting the two screws on the tops of the triple tree increase or decrease the pressure exerted on the fork seal at all? Should I test it with the pre-load adjusted down before putting things back together?

Any thoughts. Thanks
 

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The preload knob only effects how much or little "preload" is on the spring. It does not add pressure to the interior of the fork leg or exert pressure again the seal.
 

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Fork seals are a very hard working part. If you can revive 7+ yr old seals, that's fine, but it would be a good time to order up a new set to have on hand for when the old seals give up the fight.
 

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For gaiters or skins go a long way in protecting fork seal allowing them to last longer in a lot of instances.
 

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I'm doing my first fork seal replacement on my '12 DL650.

Any recommended brands for fork gaiters or skins? Any potential downsides?
 

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There have been a few recommendations for "Rancho" brand RS1927 - I believe Greywolf had used them with success.

Downside would be that if a seal starts leaking, is damaged or a stanchion starts rusting, you might not notice it for a long time.

If you don't use boots, wiping the shiny part down with a damp rag to remove bugs and dirt will go a very long way towards preventing seal failure. I have 80,000 miles on my current fork build with no leaks.
 

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Google "Dirt Skins" they are neoprene fork covers that install with a hoop and loop material. Easy on easy off to wash and inspect whats underneath.

If you use traditional plastic bellows type gaiters they will have weep holes at the bottom so if there is a leak you'll notice it. They do not provide a hermetic seal they only keep dirt and debris from hitting the fork leg.
 

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'13 dl650 44000 miles with Rancho 1952 shock covers. No seal issues, fork oil is in good condition when I changed it at 20k and 35k.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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How hard you beat them off road seems to matter. I kept my forks clean, but my right seal started leaking around 37k miles, so I replaced both. (2015 650xt)

I had never replaced the fork oil prior to the leak.
 

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When one of mine started leaking around 30,000 miles I could smell the oil at speed. Seal master fixed the leak and both have been dry for past 20,000 miles. I normally keep them clean but likely picked up a bug on the highway.
 

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There have been a few recommendations for "Rancho" brand RS1927 - I believe Greywolf had used them with success.

Downside would be that if a seal starts leaking, is damaged or a stanchion starts rusting, you might not notice it for a long time.

If you don't use boots, wiping the shiny part down with a damp rag to remove bugs and dirt will go a very long way towards preventing seal failure. I have 80,000 miles on my current fork build with no leaks.
I've used Seal Mates to clean the gunk between the fork seal and fork tube. You can make one out of any old photo negative too.
 

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Well, my right side seal started leaking. Wheelies have a bad side. :)

Going with Tusk again through RM ATV. Got the fork off and draining the old oil as we speak.

Wondering if there is a way to get the seal out with out taking the tube out too. :unsure:
 

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You can get the seal out with 2, 3 or 4 self tapping screws drilled into the seal but you are at risk of damaging the inner tube.

Put heaps of tape around the tube to protect it.

It is only one extra bolt to remove the outer tube and you get to clean everything while it is apart, your choice.

If your forks are clean and in good condition wheelies should have no affect.

Often the problem is if you land hard you are going to use the dirty less used part of the fork thus collecting dirt in the seal.

Sometimes it can damage the seal other times it just needs to be cleaned out.
 

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Well, my right side seal started leaking. Wheelies have a bad side. :)

Going with Tusk again through RM ATV. Got the fork off and draining the old oil as we speak.

Wondering if there is a way to get the seal out with out taking the tube out too. :unsure:
If you are careful you can use compressed air. Won't take much of a blow, aim the tube away from you with a rag wrapped around the open end of the tube. Blow it through the drain hole. Be careful though!
 

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Yeah, I gave up and just removed the drain plug. Need to clean out the old oil. It was pretty bad.

Took it completely apart and cleaned. :)
 

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Well, I got er done! Went pretty well.

I DIY'ed a seal seater because it would not go in with out me messing it up. Stopped at ACE hardware store and picked up a $1.79 PVC schedule 40 1.5" slip fit coupler. It is large enough to slide over the upper tube. But it's too big to fit into the seal area on top of the lower part of the fork.

275170


So I improvised and cut 3/8" out of the coupler length wise and slid it down over and into the seal. Just used my hand to clamp it smaller. A hose clamp would work too. Used the hammer along the upper tube not to damage it.

All together and done. Used 530mL of Bel Ray 10W fork oil. (y)
 

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A hose clamp would work too. Used the hammer along the upper tube not to damage it.
(y)
I use a hose clamp or a cable tie to get the pipe down to the required size.

So as not to damage the inner tube with a hammer get some PVC pipe longer than the inner fork tube,

That way you are hitting it from directly above the seal and not near the fork tube.
 
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