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Its time for my 30k service,gonna change antifreeze and fork oil as well.Can someone tell me the most popular wght of oil and about how much it will take per side? Thanx in advance ya'll!
 

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Fork oil weight is widely debated, and can be influenced by riders weight and other factors.

I just went with BelRay 10W. The book says 505.0ml (17.07 oz) capacity for each fork, so that's just over a quart needed.

I bought 2 qts and used some of it to flush out each fork after I drained and pumped them...a lot a crap comes out! I made sure that I had enough left to properly service each fork when done.

By the way, servicing is most accurately measured 133.0mm (5.24 ") from the top of the tube to the fluid level (with damper rod installed and strut cycled at least 10x to eliminate air)..not so much by the quantity of oil added.

Good luck!
 

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Hey thanx alot,since it calls for 10 wt. I'll use atf @ 17.18 oz a side
It's much, much better to measure the level. Unless you disassemble the forks you never know if you got all the old oil out, so the volume method is just a guess.
 

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flush out each fork after I drained and pumped them...a lot a crap comes out!
With each fork off, I put some paint thinner in each one and pumped it---gray mud came out--and did it again. Then I put in some cheap light hydraulic oil (I bought a quart of hydraulic jack oil), flushed & pumped until that came out clean. Drained very well, then filled with fork oil.
 

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It's much, much better to measure the level. Unless you disassemble the forks you never know if you got all the old oil out, so the volume method is just a guess.
Oh mine are apart,new bushings as well as seals,thats the only way I do it
 

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Why?

Hey thanx alot,since it calls for 10 wt. I'll use atf @ 17.18 oz a side
Why ATF? Fork ol is cheap enough, easy enough to find, and particularly designed for the application. ATF might work OK. But I'm not sure it has enough film strength to keep the various sliding parts from wearing each other. Nor is it clear what SAE weight equivalent you end up with. Of course, your bike, your choice. But a lot of work to go through for a maybe sub-optimal result.
 

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ATF is a wonderful lubricant with excellent film strength not needed on forks.

It was the go to stuff for decades. I spent the money for Red Line Medium but thats just me.

I am spreading the word that Progressive Springs are stiffer than stock even the soft end.
 

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I probably overspent on Amsoil fork oil, but I'm still a cheap bastard at heart so I flushed the forks with the cheapest ATF I could find at Wal-Mart. The flush was worthwhile, the ATF definitely carried out a lot of dirt with it.
 

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I've been reading up on fork oil lately, wwhile on a mission to improve handling on my zrx. ATF is reported to be okay in damper rod forks, but not viscous enough for cartridge forks like those in our vees. I'll be changing out the atf in my vee as soon as I finish the zrx.
 

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AHH NO

viscosity is a measure of the flow (internal friction) characteristics of a fluid. I think the wt (weight) is really some cold weather pour test.

There are other characteristic lubricity, film strength, anti foam, heat stability but flow am flow.

automatic transmissions are brutal enviroments for an oil. Even though ATF is cheap and available it really is good stuff.

Yes the good fishing is on the other side of the pond
 

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I use a baby bottle to measure the oil volume precisely for new fork rebuilds. They are pretty cheap for a two or three pack. I cut the nipple so the hole is bigger for the oil to flow out. Works good for any small amount of liquid that needs to be measured relatively accurately.
 

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According to my manual that I downloaded as a KLV1000, at the back it lists specs for forkoil height and volume which is;
K2, 133mm down and 505ml for each leg. Spring length= not spec'd, limit 442mm
K3, 140mm down and 496ml for each leg. Spring length= 433.6mm, limit 424mm

Just so you know! That means I have to buy only one 1l bottle of fork oil!
 
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