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On Fork Oil:
The service manual states the level should be 133mm from the top of the fork tube.
I used my digital Vernier Caliper (Harbor Freight has these) to measure: set at 133mm, and used the depth rod like a dip stick.

When reinstalling the forks, the service manual states torque on all the fork clamps to be 16.5 pounds (198 inch pounds).
When I torqued the lower bolts, I did upper of the two, then lower and rechecked. They both took a little more the second time.
Moral: Don't just be certain, be twice certain.
 

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On Fork Oil:
The service manual states the level should be 133mm from the top of the fork tube.
I used my digital Vernier Caliper (Harbor Freight has these) to measure: set at 133mm, and used the depth rod like a dip stick.

When reinstalling the forks, the service manual states torque on all the fork clamps to be 16.5 pounds (198 inch pounds).
When I torqued the lower bolts, I did upper of the two, then lower and rechecked. They both took a little more the second time.
Moral: Don't just be certain, be twice certain.
Whenever you have double (or triple) pinch bolts, like we do on the lower triples, you have to go back and forth between them to get the torque correct. When you tighten one, it's providing all the clamping force. When you tighten the second one it takes up some of that force and releases some of the tension on the first bolt. Usually three iterations is enough.

This also means that when loosening those bolts you should not completely loosen one, and then the other. If you do that the clamping force that was split between the two bols is now borne by just one, which may overstress it.
I give them about half a turn before switching to the other one, and again, three or so iterations before I can just do one at a time.
 

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On Fork Oil:
The service manual states the level should be 133mm from the top of the fork tube.
I used my digital Vernier Caliper (Harbor Freight has these) to measure: set at 133mm, and used the depth rod like a dip stick.
Moral: Don't just be certain, be twice certain.
Saur, I used to use a verier caliper or a 6" machinist rule to measure fork oil level. Sometimes it was a bit difficult to read depending on which fork oil I was using.
I bought a Motion-Pro Fork Oil Level Gauge. A graduated stainless-steel "straw", a locating disc,a hose and a syringe and in 20 seconds. Worked very well, a real accurate and quick time-saver. And the tool is inexpensive.
But from doing dozens of forks through the years, the seal in the syringe wore out and wouldnt vacuum the excess oil. So....I hooked up the syringe's straw to my air-powered brake bleeder. 3 seconds, and a perfect result every time. No mess. Here ya GO!
https://www.denniskirk.com/motion-pro/pro-fork-oil-level-kit-08-0121.p284159.prd/284159.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-uiJpvKe3AIVgcDACh2FfAgWEAQYAiABEgJD7_D_BwE&ad=45713335837

Your moral is a statement to live by. I just impressed when riders even check these things, let alone do their own repairs.
 

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I made a really simple tool to both measure and adjust the level of fork oil. It's just a piece of brass tubing, some vinyl hose, and a syringe. You measure out the air gap at the top of the fork tube specified in the manual, and mark that on the brass tube (starting at the end that you're going to you stick into the fork tube). You attach the syringe and the vinyl tubing to the brass tube. You stick the brass tube into the fork tube, and line up the mark on the brass tube that you made for the air gap measurement with the top of the fork tube (or with whatever point the manual tells you to measure the air gap from). Then you just draw on the syringe. The vacuum will suck out any fork oil that's above the level of the air gap, so the proper air gap will be created. You don't need to read any measurements, or even be able to see the fork oil, as long as you can line up the reference point on the brass tube with the proper point on the fork tube. If you draw air when you pull on the syringe, then you know the fork oil level is too low, and you add more. If you add too much, you'll draw the excess oil off when you pull on the syringe, and it will automatically set the oil level at the right spot.

Sorry MAZ4ME, I didn't mean to steal your thunder. I typed my response before I read yours.
 

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RC, that's what the Motion-Pro tool does. You just set the tube to the level you want and vacuum away. Dont have to line up a thing. Set the disc on the top of the fork tube-in 10mm increments- and vacuum til the tube runs clear.
 

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Yep, the only difference is that mine was about 3 bucks for the vinyl tube and syringe (I already had the brass).

If I can make a tool for less than it costs to buy it, then I'll give it a whirl. Hence, the development of my homemade fork spring compressor, made out of a trigger clamp, scrap aluminum, and some threaded rod....

 

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RC, you didnt "steal my thunder". I have no thunder to steal, I just do what I do and try to contribute where I can.
This is a forum, and to me, a great one at that!
 

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How long does it take you guys to do this job? I blew a seal and this will be my first go at doing shocks. Is this a half day project?

Other than that measuring tool (syringe thing) and a torque wrench are there and other specialty tools needed?
 
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