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Discussion Starter #1
I own a DL-1000 and also a company that makes motorcycle parts. I got an e-mail asking if we made peg lowering brackets for the Vstrom like we did for Honda's. Turns out the Honda lowers also fit both Vstrom's 650 and 1000.

If you are looking to gain 1 1/2" of leg room check these out.

www.motorcyclelarry.com/dl1000fp.aspx

Use this coupon code (vstrom) lower case until June-1-2006 and save 10%


Larry
 

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motorcyclelarry said:
I own a DL-1000 and also a company that makes motorcycle parts. I got an e-mail asking if we made peg lowering brackets for the Vstrom like we did for Honda's. Turns out the Honda lowers also fit both Vstrom's 650 and 1000.

If you are looking to gain 1 1/2" of leg room check these out.

www.motorcyclelarry.com/dl1000fp.aspx

Use this coupon code (vstrom) lower case until June-1-2006 and save 10%


Larry
Not bad! Thanks for the info......got it added to the farkle list in my palm pilot....
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The site says they also work on the 650. They had better, mine are on the way.
 
J

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Discussion Starter #7
My son has lowered pegs on his 2002 DL1000 ... All I can say is WOW!

While doing the Yosh tuning I had the chance to spend a LOT of time on his bike.. Then back to mine.. The stock peg height for me was not as comfortable. 31.5" inseam. He has a 34" inseam.

Going back to my bike it was the 1st thing I noticed and did not like.

A set is in my future! His look similar but are not these. (custom job back a few years ago)

It may not help off road and it may reduce cornering clearance till the pegs touch down... but is well worth the comport factor increase.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Okay. I'll follow up after the installation.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Okay folks, they are on my 650. There may be some differences with the 1K. First let me mention what I don't like because I prefer to finish on a positive note.

The brackets machined from billet aluminum and are designed from a Honda ST1300 part. The shift side bracket is a direct copy and the the brake side is a mirror image. This probably saved a bit of money rather than going for a complete new program on a CNC machine. However, this makes the pegs stand farther out than they need to. The Honda has a spring under the peg that needs to be cleared. The Wee does not and a dedicated bracket set could mount the pegs closer in. The pegs also droop toward the ends very slightly. It really does not have a negative effect but it makes it obvious once more that the brackets were not designed for my bike. Also on that note, the stock spring does not quite contact the frame an the bracket. That will have no functional effect other than the pegs vibrating a bit more when the rider's feet are on the ground. Unlike it says in the ad, shift and brake levers do need to be adjusted. The shift lever has a lot of built in adjustment and can be dialed in nicely. The brake runs out of adjustment room before I can get it low enough to fit my usual style. I'll change my style to fit since it will take some non trivial work to change the linkage.

As far as installation goes, I bent the springs outward a bit just because I'm anal. The brake light needed to be adjusted or be on constantly. One flat washer on one side and one wavy washer on the other side of the stock peg was the combination I chose between ease of installation and solidity of connection. I did grind a little off the end of the brake adjusting rod to get the pedal as low as possible with the stock parts.

I'm going on 61 with 2 knee operations in my past and arthritis in my present. I'm at the point where I need to lift my left leg with my hand to cross my legs unless I choose to deal with the pain. Every morning I get up limping until I can get my joints warmed up. Now for the good part. The new brackets put my feet right where I want them, a little farther forward and lower. I can flatfoot the bike with my legs behind the pegs now. Before, the pegs were in the way. My knee joints are much closer to the right angle that they need. Other than getting used to lifting my foot before braking, the only difference I notice when riding is the additional comfort. Peg draggers and those on lowered bikes may have difficulty with cornering clearance but I didn't have a problem. If the pegs hit pavement in a corner, they will fold up just about as far as the stockers. The brackets are staying on.

Dedicated brackets to get the pegs closer in, get the spring seats and stops right plus eliminate the washers are the only improvements I can think of for the brackets themselves. A replacement brake rod would be a welcome addition.
 

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Greywolf

Good write up on the lowering brackets. Maybe the manufacturer should consult you for updating their product line directed at Stroms.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I've pretty much decided to alter the pushrod on the brake. I just don't want to live with the high pedal.
 

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I managed to shorten the stock brake push rod. Taking something out of the middle and adding a sleeve to the outside seemed the best way to go. Now it's just a matter of getting used to the controls being a bit farther in than before. That's felt a lot more natural after just a couple of rides. The brake light actuator spring had to be bent differently too. I've dragged a boot a couple of times now and it's actually kinda fun. Whatever time it took will be paid back by the savings on painkillers.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
LOL... Pain Killers only work for so long... The peg lowering kit will benefit much longer w/o tolerance ... but the V-strom is still addictive!
 

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I took my first fairly long ride with the lowered pegs today. My legs were in much better condition than they would have been before. :D

I'll need to take longer trips to tell for sure but I think my body may be better positioned on the seat too, causing my weight to be carried over a larger area.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I've been asked to detail how I shortened the rear brake pushrod. The procedure is to take cotter pin out of the pivot at the bottom of the rod and remove the pivot pin and washer. Then put the brake lever at the desired position. The manual specifies 1 inch below the level of the footpeg top but I like mine a little higher. Then measure the distance between the pivot hole at the end of the rod and the pivot hole at the end of the lever. That is the amount to cut out of the center of the rod.

I took the master cylinder off the bike to remove the rubber boot and take out the circlip to release the rod. That may not be necessary if a sleeve is just epoxied to the rod. Removing the rod will release a little brake fluid so be prepared if you do this. I have a metric tap and die set so, after cutting the section out of the rod. I selected the closest die to thread both rod halves. It was a 7mmx1 die. It didn't cut to full depth but a 6mm was too small.

I drilled the center of a 3/8" aluminum rod by chucking it into a drill press and feeding it onto a drill bit. This allowed me to tap the through hole and create a sleeve. I drilled and tapped a pair of nuts to use as jam nuts against the sleeve. It turned out the soft aluminum and the shallow threads on the rod wouldn't hold properly so I just used JB-Weld epoxy to hold everything together. The brake force pushes the cut rod ends together so the altered rod is very strong in that direction. The epoxy is just needed to keep the return spring from pulling the rod apart.

If I had it to do again, I'd leave the rod in place, cut the section out, and epoxy the sleeve in place.
 

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Center stand clearance?

Do these pegs have any effect on center stand clearance? I was thinking about ordering one of the SW Motech stands but want to make sure these won't interfere before I do.

-T
 

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Not a problem. I had both on my old bike.
 
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