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Discussion Starter #1
Yes, I know there are multiple threads but none that I found end with "and this is what worked".

I have a '07 DL650 and a couple of years ago the gas gauge started acting "funny". By which I mean it would all of the sudden drop to 1 bar (with 100 miles on the tank) and then the gas pump emblem and bar would start flashing. I'd panic, thinking there was a leak and nope, the tank is still half full. No problems. I didn't think it was funny, but the gauge probably did.

So I assumed that the gas gauge was faulty and had the local shop install a used dash unit. Primarily because it was a cheaper route than a new fuel pump (with integral sending unit) or a new dash unit. A couple of tanks later I knew that the problem wasn't fixed. Even though my bike is now 6k "younger".

BTW, I can stop and slosh the tank side to side and then it will read what I think close to correct. And then a bit down the road we're back to the normal shenanigans.

That leaves me with, I think, two potential culprits. The wiring to the tank and the sending unit. I've recently found out, in looking at Bike Bandit's OEM parts diagrams, that the sending unit is separate from the fuel pump. It's attached to it but it appears it can be separated.

Has anyone solved the bouncing gauge issue? How? Can you replace just the sending unit? Or am I now into replacing the fuel pump/sending unit as a whole?

I'm kind of surprised that Suzuki hasn't issued some sort of TSB on this. According to the shop they have not.

Thanks,
Brian
 

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That's sucks. Mine only looses the top bar...most of the time. GW has written up some remedies so it's not unusual
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yep, with a potential trip to Alaska next summer I don't really want to just use the ODO as the fuel gauge.
 

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I always fill the tank and always use Trip A as my fuel gauge. It is far more accurate and far more helpful.

I have heard that the issue is usually oxidation of the tank sender unit giving a faulty indication and that a cure is to use a fuel system cleaner to establish a better contact between the components but I have never bothered to try it. My fuel gauge gives me an indication but Trip A is what I always rely on.
 

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Inside the tank, gauge assembly 34810-27G00, $115.

My V2 had a sticky sender this spring. A few fast rides over good sized bumps knocked it loose...this time.
 

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My 011 tank has never been off since a valve check at 30,000 and now has 56,000. Had a few of many bikes that had a fuel gauge act up but usually so old just used the miles rolled up for a guage. On carb bikes with a reserve lever just got to know how far I could go. One of my RoadStars just works when it wants to.Guess its retired like me? Both of them are carb bikes so no worry. Post if you get it fixed for cheap as I have way too many old bikes and too cheap to pay for parts that do not help to keep it running...Good luck.
 

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I had a similar issue for several months. I should have search more on the forum.
I ended up replacing the fuel filter. That didn't work, so I replaced the fuel pump
It works great now!! No more spratic cutting out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Reinstalled the original instrument panel/gauge cluster. Still read the same (incorrectly). Just ordered a new fuel gauge sending unit and will be having the shop install it.
 

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Have you tried fuel cleaner? I had a similar problem (top bar on the fuel gauge disappearing 10-15 miles after fillup) with a used Strom I had just bought and it was gum/varnish buildup (from the previous owner's lack of use) on the fuel level gizmo in the tank. Apparently, it sends a reading to the gauge based on voltage/resistance at the contact. If it's coated with "varnish" from old fuel, it will send an incorrect signal. I poured in a bottle of Techron (whole bottle meant for 15 gallons) into a pretty full tank, let it set a few days, then rode it for a week and refilled. Gas gauge worked fine after that.

It's a cheap try, and good maintenance even if that doesn't fix the gauge problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yep. Tried seafoam and injector cleaner. Tried aiming the gas nozzle from the pump in the general direction of the sending unit. I think the start of it is when I left the tank half-full to nearly empty during a 3-4 month break from riding. My theory is that the exposure to the air in the tank caused corrosion in either the float pivot or on whatever the sending unit uses for sensing the float level.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A quick update. The local shop was able to replace the sending unit _without_ replacing the fuel pump too. I asked if there was anything they saw that was wrong with the unit and they shrugged and said they end up changing them from time to time. Kind of a "yeah, some of them do that" response. No recall or even Technical Service Bulletins.

Anyway, I now have more confidence in my fuel gauge. I'll see where we are after a few tankfulls.

My one thought is that I had let the bike sit for 3 months over a winter with a half-full tank. My guilt tells me that I let the sending unit set in the air and that let the contacts get a layer of corrosion on them. But I have no real evidence to support that.

Brian
 

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Brian, did you perhaps ask for the replaced / old sender unit? There is a a fuel gauge resistance reading test / process in the service manual. It would be interesting (for the record) to see the difference in the readings obtained on a faulty unit vs what the manual indicates.
 

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The problem could be with the wiper in the sending unit or with a wiring connection anywhere between the sender and the display. An increased resistance in any connection will cause such a problem.
 

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I need to revive this thread. My gas gauge was reading all over the place like it would get down to two bars then start reading full. Then it would read empty when it was full. I had my shop replace the sensor did a two hundred mile ride today and it's still screwed up! Never got below three bars and then it went back up to four and then five. I should have kept the old sensor to do a resistance test. Sure wish Greywolf was still here to chime in. If anyone knows a fix please by all means let me know.
 

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I think you're going to need the factory service manual schematic to trace the wires to the display. Start with looking at the connectors they go thru.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #17
After suffering with "range anxiety" for a few years I had the shop replace the sending unit with the original fuel pump remaining. Worked for me! No issues on my Alaska trip last summer. This solution worked for me. I had previously replaced the dash and that didn't work. Might be worth cleaning the dash contacts and connector on your bike. Good luck finding the right solution.
 
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