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So... like Day 4 with my first motorcycle. Gave her a really good bath (once I got over the fact that I could spray water all over it), then blew off with blower, sprayed the chain down with kerosene (walking it, b/c my center stand isn't here yet), then rubbing some gear oil all over it. Once all dried up, put some polish on the paint. Holy moly, didn't realize she could look so much better, and the chain is night and day - I didn't realize how effective kerosene was. So good I didn't even want to ride tonight.., dirt and/or flinging potentially too much gear oil.

I really need to do my first oil change. Tired of waiting on the OEM filter to arrive, and read on here earlier today that the manual suggests skipping the filer replacement. I'm none the wiser and am frugal, so seems I could go ahead and do the oil change (this is a 3,400 mile 2015 I just bought used) and hold on to the arriving filter and just do it again after 3-4k miles or so. Seem wise/okay?

All I would need to do is warm up the engine...
Remove the drain plug / have a filter route it around the sw-motech skid plate...
Tilt it up off side stand....
Then replace the drain plug....
I ordered a torque wrench... believe I read 12lbs? I have never used one.
Will be recycling the washer...
Then just pour in my oil.... went with 10W-40 Castrol Actevo X-TRA Semi-Synthetic 4T
Run engine a bit... then make sure its landing kinda in the upper/middle of the view window

That's all there is too it right, since not dealing with the oil filter. That sounds crazy simple.

My next concern is the chain feels too loose. I don't know what the manual says we should be at for slack. This chain feels loose, but I have no clue how to deal with that one yet.

Thanks for all the guidance. Really loving all that comes with a motorcycle.
 

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Get a Fram PH6018 oil filter instead. It's what I use. Fleet Farm is sold out so I hate driving around. May have to Amazon it. Hotter oil gets the sludge out better. And DON'T strip out the drain plug. If no T wrench, snug it down.

Rocky Mountain ATV is my go to for all the stuff online.
 

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chain slack according to the manual is between .8 --> 1.2 in of defection under the bottom side of the swing arm mid point

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You don't want your chain too loose or too tight, both can cause failures, but it's better to be a little loose than any amount tight.
 

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If this is its first ever oil change, I wouldn't skip the filter. Engines wear down their rough edges during the break-in period, which means higher than normal amounts of metal in the oil and hence in your filter. Probably not a huge deal but worth waiting a few days IMHO.
 

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You might consider a K&N filter. It has nut on the end of it so you can remove it with a normal socket, no need to mess with a filter wrench. If you have a skid plate, maneuvering a filter wrench can be a pain.
 

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+1 on changing the oil filter. Not changing the filter is like taking a shower and putting your old sweaty underwear back on. Eww..

I used the Fram 6018 filters on all 3 of the V-Stroms I owned over a 12-year period with no problems. One had 50K miles and still ran like new, the other two had around 30K on them.
Sold at WalMart.

BTW - since you don't have a centerstand, I would recommend working from the right-hand side (opposite the kick stand) in case the bike gets rocked taking off the drain plug. Sometimes, you have to give them a tug if they've been on a while. If the bike falls (and they do that, sometimes o_O), you would probably rather it fall away from you than on top. Ouch!

Double check the drain plug torque value. My DL-1000 manual says 16.5, but they are two different animals.



THE FOLLOWING IS FOR THE FIRST-GEN V-STROM 1000

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Will be recycling the washer...
The crush washers that go under the oil drain plug are intended to be crushed - this mates them to the respective surfaces and ensures an oil tight fit. Then, due to the crushing and the heat cycle of the engine, they "work harden". Which means they become harder and more brittle, instead of pliable. If you reuse them without properly heat treating them, they won't mate as well anymore, which might lead to oil leaks. Therefore the official advice is to always replace the crush washers. They're cheap anyway, if buy them from the nearest auto parts store in bulk. And yes, I know there's cheapskates out there that reuse them (and I have done so as well when I didn't have any spares to hand). This will probably work OK a few times. But especially as a beginning mechanic I would not start out with bad habits like that.

I ordered a torque wrench... believe I read 12lbs? I have never used one.
Regarding the torque wrench, two things: First, torque can be measured in two different ways: Foot-pounds (lb-ft) which is US, and Newtonmeters (Nm) for the rest of the world. Your manual specifies both values and they are not anywhere close together so using the wrong one is normally pretty disastrous. Your torque wrench itself will probably also have scales for both, and you need to make sure you're using the right scale.

Once you've setup your torque wrench correctly, put the square bit in a bench vise and get a feel for how much - or actually, how little - force is required for it to "click". It's much easier to do this in a bench vise than to get that feel when you're sideways underneath the bike. And the force required is actually surprisingly low for such a hefty bolt. (Reason is that the bolt sits in a thin-walled aluminium oil sump, so it only has a handful of effective threads. Too much force will strip these threads easily. It's the most common maintenance mistake on here, and there are numerous threads here from people asking how to fix it. Don't be one of those.)

Oh, and once you're done, always return the torque wrench setting to zero. Otherwise the constant tension on the spring brings it out of calibration.
 

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Wix 51359 is the filter I've been using. I get it at O'Rilley auto parts. I would never skip changing the filter when changing the oil. More info here:What are my oil filter options for 650 V-Strom?
I set my chain about 1 1/2 inches of slack on the side stand. Then I have a friend check to see if there is still a small amount of slack when I sit on the bike.
 

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How far out is your stock filter? Days, weeks, months?

If the oil was changed or around the 600 service you good to at least 5,000 miles. Changing sooner might give peace of mind but it will not nothing to protect the engine better than what in there. I'm really not certain the 600 mile change is necessary I think it just a throw back from days gone by and a way for dealers to make a little extra. money. Gone are the days of "break in" oils Now you buy a new car and come back in 10,000 miles for the 1st oil change.

As a side not to warm up the engine does not mean to idle the motor on the stand for a few minutes. Go ride the bike for 10 or 20 miles come home let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes while you gather up what you need to do the oil change. This will allow the exhaust to cool then change he oil while it is still warm/hot.
 

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How far out is your stock filter? Days, weeks, months?

If the oil was changed or around the 600 service you good to at least 5,000 miles. Changing sooner might give peace of mind but it will not nothing to protect the engine better than what in there. I'm really not certain the 600 mile change is necessary I think it just a throw back from days gone by and a way for dealers to make a little extra. money. Gone are the days of "break in" oils Now you buy a new car and come back in 10,000 miles for the 1st oil change.

As a side not to warm up the engine does not mean to idle the motor on the stand for a few minutes. Go ride the bike for 10 or 20 miles come home let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes while you gather up what you need to do the oil change. This will allow the exhaust to cool then change he oil while it is still warm/hot.
Isn't the idea of the 600 mile change to flush out all the startup clutch debris?
 

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Yeah reckon I'm a cheapskate, I swap the oil filter every other change and NEVER replace the oil pan drain screw crush washer......never so much as a drip on any bike I've owned, imagine that.
 

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Used to re-use the washers all the time, then I did develop small leak on 2 different vehicles. New crush washer fixed both, so now I always change them. I didn't believe the hype either till it happened to me.

Oh and Subaru has special ones of course.
 

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So goes the rumor. When one replaces a wet clutch in their bike is protocol to change the engine oil and filter 600 miles later?
I personally would. When I rebuild an auto trans in a car I typically drain out a quart or 2 a few hundred miles afterwards to get all the break in junk out - as well as to check for any metal.
 

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My SV1000S had a TON of clutch stuff in the oil when I bought it new. I brought it back for warranty work and they said it was normal to have all that AL in the oil.

I'd still stick with what the manual says. 600 mile change. I don't do the 25 mile oil and filter change.
 

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I personally would. When I rebuild an auto trans in a car I typically drain out a quart or 2 a few hundred miles afterwards to get all the break in junk out - as well as to check for any metal.
I'm not asking if you would I'm asking is it normal protocol to change the oil 600 miles after replacing clutch?

Like transmission of yesteryear I also remember rebuilding engines in the barn and you used "break In" oils that had a quick drain interval. Of course this was using the local machine shop boring out old cast iron blocks to tolerances no manufacturer would find accetable today.
 
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