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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced my air filter yesterday and when I got on my bike today, the warning indicator light (center of console) is on (steady red) with the clock alternating between the time and "FI". I made sure the airbox was sealed properly when I reassembled and the bike runs perfectly (I only have 5500 mi on it). Any ideas what the problem could be?
 
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Discussion Starter #2
One thing I forgot, be careful with the screws that hold the fairings/cowls. I stripped out the hole where it screws in on the cowl right below the tank. There is a welded on bracket where it screws in and apparently the metal is softer than the screw (bad combination). Now I'm screwed (pun intended). :x How does one go about fixing this?

Great forum BTW! :D
 

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The FI issue, the only thing that immediately comes to mind is the electrical connector for the fuel pump and or the fuel line isn't fully seated and the ecm is reading a fault.

The stripped screw, I haven't really looked but I'm betting there isn't enough material to use a heli-coil insert. If there is this would be the best, cleanest and strongest repair. Another option is to completely fill the stripped area with JB Weld, then when set drill and tap, again will be very strong and last quite long. A third option would be to drill out the hole completely and then after getting a longer screw, JB Weld a nut to the bottom side of the brakect if that is possible, like I said I haven't looked at the mounting point.
 
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Thanks, I guess I'll tear it back apart and double check my assembly before I drag it in to the dealer. :(
 
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I found out that I neglected to connect one of the wire harnesses :oops:. While I was in there, I tried to remove the secondaries and the damn bolts stripped put on me!?!? What's the secret?
 

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Glad the FI issue isn't a problem anymore.

On the secondaries I am assuming by bolts you mean the the two small screws securing the throttle plates to the shaft. If these are damaged to the point where another screwdriver won't fit or turn them you might be out of luck unless you are willing to dismantle the throttle bodies, as the usual techniques for stripped screwheads would be problematic in the confined space and the fact using an impact driver in there would likely damage the shafts or more.

Fasteners on bikes are different animals than on cars or trucks. Most manufacturers of bikes are using nuts, bolts, and screws out of an alloy that seems to consist of compressed oatmeal and Elmer's glue. They are soft but ironically the screws and bolts are harder than the nut or mounting point they screw into.

For screws on a bike it is imperative to use a driver that fits exactly in the screw head, there are three basic phillips head sizes and a tool box should have each because a screw will allow at least two or even three of them to "fit" but only one is just right. And then of course it must be perdenicular to the screwhead before any force is applied or because it is soft, it will strip the head.

Many bolts on a bike, which are steel, are screwing into an aluminum engine component, and because aluminum is softer than steel the bolt can pull the threads right out of the case. And then there is if a bolt is threaded slighlty off center, it's threads are stronger than the case threads or the captured nuts threads and will cut them or pull them out.

Many people who are accomplished mechanics on cars and trucks can find that they run into problems with bikes because they are used to tightening things until they are "tight". At which point the threads pull out or bolt head breaks off on a bike. It is the steel v. aluminum on bikes instead of the common steel v. steel on cages.

Torque values found in the service or owners manuals on bikes aren't just an engineers way to fill some pages, a torque wrench and those values must be used to prevent fastener or component damage. Extremely expensive repairs can reuslt from not using a torque wrench, like the snapping of a cam cap in half or pulling the threads out of a head pointing point.

In the tech sessions I've had for over 60 different bikes owners of the KLR 650, most were shocked that the torque levels required to seal their engine cases was so low (69 inch/pounds). A torque wrench or two in the appropriate ranges is a must for one working on bikes.

The above is probably not a lot of help for you in the short term but maybe a novice bike mechanic can pick up a tip or two.
 
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Hey, that's great info. I think I'm stuck with the secondaries in there unless someone has a miracle tool to get 'em out. There's no way I'm going to try to cut a groove with a dremel tool way down in there and I'm not about to mess with disassembling the throttle bodies. Oh well, it's a great bike just the same.
 
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Torque wrenches

Great advice Brad! I learned this the hard way quite a long time ago and now look up the torque value for everything and use it.

Randy
 

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I did a similar trick trying to mount my Givi luggage racks. I cross threaded one of the bolts that holds the top rack on and made a mess of the mounting point. I got an 8mm x 1.25mm tap (original thread pitch) and re-threaded the mounting point on the bike. The new threads aren't as good as original, of course, but they worked well enough for this particular bolt. I would probably take the same approach for one of the fairing screws then progress to a larger tap or JB-Weld as a second option.

I haven't seen the secondary screws first hand so I don't have much to offer there. I have removed stripped screws in the past by clamping the screw head with vice grips. This may be a little too brutal for the throttle bodies, though. I think Sears has some screw extractors that don't require an impact driver.
 
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