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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
FI Light – C65 Error Code

For all you techies out there, here’s a challenge.
Just completed an 8,000 mile West Coast of the USA tour and had to live with the annoyance of the bike constantly going into safety mode. I put the bike into dealer mode and the error code showing is a C65.
As a little background, the bike is a 2014 V-Strom 650 that I bought new, it now has 45,000 mile on the clock. The only electrical issue it has had subsequent to this was a burnt-out ignition switch which an electrical engineer re-wired for me, similar to the Eastern Beaver fix.
I’ve had the tank off and checked the secondary butterflies, doesn’t seem to be any problems with there operation.
I’ve done a bit of testing and thankfully the scenario that triggers the fault is consistent, which I’m hoping should make it easier to diagnose.
SCENARIO
The bike starting from a non-error state.
When in fifth or sixth gear, if I drop the throttle (eg completely release the throttle grip), the error triggers when the revs get down to 4,000 rpm.
When in fourth gear, if I drop the throttle, the error triggers when the revs get down to 4,500 rpm.
When in third gear, if I drop the throttle, the error triggers when the revs get down to 5,000 rpm.
If I’m below any of these rev ranges when I drop the throttle, the error triggers.
HOWEVER, if I have the clutch lever pulled in and drop the throttle, the error will NOT trigger.
ALSO, if I decrease the revs in any of these gears below the critical revs but keep the throttle partly open, the error will NOT trigger. If I then release what throttle I have open, the error will then trigger.
I’m desperately trying to avoid randomly changing sensors, which is probably going to happen, unless I can find a really smart Suzuki mechanic in the Arizona area.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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A C65 is an out of range idle speed. It should only show up if the throttle is closed and the engine idle is outside the 1200-1400rpm range.
 

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Yup, could be TPS or GPS, among other things (according to VSRI).

GPS could be checked by measuring the voltage on the pink wire in different gears, I'm guessing. The voltages are somewhere in the Stromputer thread.
Don't know about the TPS.

***(I'm no expert, however!)***
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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There are a number of reasons why the idle may go out of range. The described circumstances don't fit the idle speed out of range scenario though like showing a C65 when the bike is not idling or not showing it when the bike is idling.
 

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Yup, could be TPS or GPS, among other things (according to VSRI).

GPS could be checked by measuring the voltage on the pink wire in different gears, I'm guessing. The voltages are somewhere in the Stromputer thread.
Don't know about the TPS.

***(I'm no expert, however!)***
OK, I've learned, here, about TPS "Throttle Position Sensor", and I replaced one of those on my '07 Wee, but I'm now seeing FI and I checked the code and it's C65. In this case, the bike starts and runs great and will not throw the FI code even when ridden for maybe a half hour at 70-80 MPH (indicated) constant speed, but then when I hit an off-ramp and decelerate the FI will appear. It bugs me...

Based on the bolded text above I'm guessing GPS, in this instance, stands for Gear Position Sensor. Correct?

Checked today and saw the C65 code. A bit of background - bike was fine when I bought it last fall with ~26K miles on it, but, let's just say the bike endured a fairly significant jolt (drop) since I've had it, and this code business started immediately after that.

From just a bit of reading that I've done just now it appears this could be related to the clutch plug. I've checked it very briefly before but I think I'll have a much closer look. Bike is stock, btw - no fiddling with jumpers at the clutch switch or anything like that. Since the jolt / drop, it seems (and this might just be in my imagination) that the clutch lever doesn't pull all the way to the handle grip, like I think I remember my '07 Wee doing. Should / does the clutch lever on stock Wee2s pull all the way to the grip? Again, I've not investigated much (yet), and I didn't get to ride this "new" Wee enough before the drop to become really familiar with the feel of the clutch.

Again, bike starts and idles fine. Never, ever dies, etc.

Any comments / thoughts / opinions appreciated. :smile2:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The 650 got a different style clutch lever switch in 2010 though the USA got no 2010 models. Before that, the switch was normally closed and the extended clutch lever would open it. After that it was normally open and pulling the the lever back would close it.

The lever should pull all the way back to the grip. I wonder if your switch is broken. See if the engine will start with the lever out.
 

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The 650 got a different style clutch lever switch in 2010 though the USA got no 2010 models. Before that, the switch was normally closed and the extended clutch lever would open it. After that it was normally open and pulling the the lever back would close it.

The lever should pull all the way back to the grip. I wonder if your switch is broken. See if the engine will start with the lever out.
I'll go check now. Be right back... (Thanks for the thought).
 

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It it starts with the lever out, that's probably your problem. A non working switch tends to cause the idle to drop below spec. A bad switch or a bent or broken lever tang can be the cause.
 

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It it starts with the lever out, that's probably your problem. A non working switch tends to cause the idle to drop below spec.
Just checked it. Starts right up with me not even touching the clutch lever.

I assume removal and replacement of the clutch lever switch is a simple task. True? I really appreciate the very relevant input!

:smile2:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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If the lever is okay, the switch replacement is straight forward.
 

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If the lever is okay, the switch replacement is straight forward.
From what I've noticed I think the lever is fine. No obvious bends, etc., though that's not out of the question. The bike and I took a heck of a jolt during the drop. I guess I'm surprised the switch could have been damaged without the lever being obviously bent, but I'm certainly not doubting the possibility. I'll probably dig deeper tomorrow. Many thanks, again. You are a very valuable resource to many of us!
 

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Glad to help. The usual causes for a failure to idle at the proper speed are the idle speed setting on pre 2007 Wees and all Vees, the TPS on any model and the clutch lever switch for 2007 and later 650s and Vee2s.
 

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For possible future reference, Wee2 clutch switch part number appears to be 57560-05A00 and associated screw(s) P/N 02122-0320A.

Roughly $10 for the switch and $1.50 for the screw.

Numbers should be confirmed before ordering...
 

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I just had this happen to me on trip to the Black Hills. I had the exact same symptoms as you. I found the clutch switch had become skewed and was not being activated when the lever was released. Had to take off hand guard, loosen the nuts holding the lever, then moved the switch back into place. When I did this it kinda snapped into position. Put everything back together. 10 minute job and can be done on the road. Just don't lose any of the washers or nuts.

In any case. Good news...it did not effect the performance of the bike at all. Enjoy your trip!
 

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Finally got this clutch switch thing fixed.

On some thread here someone mentioned that the single tiny screw that holds the switch in place is hard to remove. I think they ground-away part of the switch and screw head then removed the remainder of the screw with Vice-grips. Mine broke off flush with the lever fitting - nothing left to get ahold of :furious:.

Had to order a complete clutch lever assembly (with another new switch to match the one I'd just received as a stand-alone item :mod2_no: ) to get everything back together. Fixed the problem though. Runs fine now. :smile2:

I appreciate the help I got here along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, back in America after a 4 month break down-under and still trying to deal with the C65 error. I took the bike into a Suzuki dealer in San Francisco and they have told me their diagnostics don't show any problems. They confirmed that the range the bike idles in is correct, no issues there. From reading others posts the possible culprits are the clutch switch gear position sensor (GPS) or the throttle position sensor. I find it hard to believe it would be the clutch switch as I described in the original scenario. If I pull the clutch in when decelerating it does not throw the error. This makes me think the ECU is getting a message from the switch. With Suzuki scratching their heads I'm now starting to think about having to throw money at new sensors. Probably the GPS first. I would have thought that if it was the GPS playing up I would have seen incorrect gears being displayed; this has not happened. Any words of wisdom from the techies out there?
PS I head for Uruguay next week, so I really need to get this fixed.
 

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Does the bike start with the clutch lever out? If it does, the clutch switch is your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I tested the clutch switch by pulling the lever back to the handlebar and then gently pushing the switch plunger in and out. You can feel the actual plunger click as it triggers the switch. So I have discounted the clutch switch as a problem.
As I said earlier, the bike is running and idling perfectly, there are no mis-reads of note in the gear position indicator, so I'm not suspicious of the GPS or TPS.
I'm wondering if it can have anything to do with manifold pressure? (I'm no mechanic) as the error only triggers when the bike is decelerating with a completely closed throttle.
If the clutch is pulled in while the bike is decelerating, eg no load on the motor and the revs have dropped to idling, the error does not occur. Once the clutch lever is released and there is load on the motor, the error occurs.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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A C65 is an idle out of range fault. Yet you say the problem occurs when the engine is not idling. Are you running in too high a gear when the bike is decelerating so the engine speed is forced below 1300rpm?
 
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