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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Once the somewhat difficult installation is accomplished, it's a great addition for not much money.
 

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I have installed the AudioVox CCS100 on several cars, and 2 bikes without any major difficulties.

You can order one through pretty much most auto part stores in Canada. If I recall, they sell for around 120 loons or so.

Most places dont stock them anymore, because pretty much every car built for the last many years have cruise.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys,
I understand it's a lengthy installation. Provided I can find all the right wires, I don't see why it shouldn't work.
So no problems with the throttle hook-up or anything?
 

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I recently read about another cruise control that doesn't require all the vacuum hookup. I thought it was on this site, but of course now I can't find it.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #7
Hmmm. The plot thickens.
I hadn't seen this Rostra system.
I must investigate further.
A bit pricier, but avoiding creating potential vacuum leaks on this bike seems like a good idea. Rbertalotto's comparative review between the two systems is quite positive in the Rostra's favour.
 

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Summit Racing stocks the audiovox and its $90! :cool:

FYI: It won't work with LED taillights without a relay. I just read that tonight.
 

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The audiovox is for cars, so I don't think the switch is waterproof... am I wrong, or what do you do about that?
You're right the switch is not waterproof and although I read about several people ignoring that and mounting it anyway with no problems I suspect they have garages and do not ride in the rain on purpose.

I have no garage so my bike lives outside and I like to ride in the rain so I thought it would be a good idea to waterproof the switch.

I took it apart and siliconed the rubber switch pad to the inside of the front half of the case then reassembled it and siliconed the joint and the wire egress slot on the back. I don't know if it will take a dunking but I'm confident it will hold up to anything I'm going to give it.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The audiovox is for cars, so I don't think the switch is waterproof... am I wrong, or what do you do about that?
It's easy to waterproof the switch. I ran a bead of silicone around the edge of the flexible plastic button casting. That prevents water from getting in the front. Sealing the case connection and the wire entry hole takes care of the back. I just painted the back with liquid vinyl electrical "tape" and made sure to fill the mating surfaces and wire entry hole. I've ridden through some frog choking rains and never had a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The audiovox is for cars, so I don't think the switch is waterproof... am I wrong, or what do you do about that?
You can seal it up with silicone, or the like. There are a few threads/photos on the topic. I haven't heard anyone complain about water problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I bought this one:



From NAPA (part# 730-1607) and stuck in behind the tool kit under the luggage rack.
Did you consider putting it anywhere else?
I use that spot for my air compressor.
I was thinking maybe up behind the headlights, mounted to a bracket of some sort. Hard to tell, though, until you have the canister in hand.
I was just going to get the cannister Audiovox supplies. I hadn't even thought of looking for an alternative. That's unless I go with the Rostra non-vacuum system.
I'm absorbing the cost of new Anakees at the moment, so the cruise has to wait for a bit.
 

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Did you consider putting it anywhere else?
I use that spot for my air compressor.
I was thinking maybe up behind the headlights, mounted to a bracket of some sort. Hard to tell, though, until you have the canister in hand.
I was just going to get the cannister Audiovox supplies. I hadn't even thought of looking for an alternative. That's unless I go with the Rostra non-vacuum system.
I'm absorbing the cost of new Anakees at the moment, so the cruise has to wait for a bit.
I bought three different reservoirs from napa and will return the other two. I wanted options durring the install to help minimize down time. I keep my compressor under the seat too but not all the way in the back.

I couldn't find a place that would be less obtrusive and the only thing I keep back there is my plug kit- I didn't want anything to show except the switch. The canister is not mounted. I can pull it out and hang it over the side by the hoses so I can get to my plug kit which is still back there. With side bags and a top case mounted all the time and a tank bag added for trips that space is not premium for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I bought three different reservoirs from napa and will return the other two. I wanted options durring the install to help minimize down time. I keep my compressor under the seat too but not all the way in the back.

I couldn't find a place that would be less obtrusive and the only thing I keep back there is my plug kit- I didn't want anything to show except the switch. The canister is not mounted. I can pull it out and hang it over the side by the hoses so I can get to my plug kit which is still back there. With side bags and a top case mounted all the time and a tank bag added for trips that space is not premium for me.
If I go the Audiovox route I guess it's off to Napa to see what they have.
I carry my compressor, plug kit and tool kit back there, so I'd like to keep that spot as is. That way the stuff is always on the bike. You just know, the day you don't take your plug kit with you, you'll need it. I always have a top case on, but it gets used for other stuff. I only use the side cases when I have to.
 

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In a lot of the install write-ups they are drilling beside the fuel tank mounting bracket and cutting away part of the seat.

This is not neccesary.

I got 10X1.25x20mm bolt and attached the long bracket that comes in the kit to the right side of the rear cylinder head in what I assume is a lift or sling mounting hole. I slanted it back toward the seat and flipped the cable mount forward and inboard so it lines up with the throttle linkage on the rear throttle body. The directions said leave a minimum of 5 chain links between the cable and the throttle and this position leaves room for 6 links.

I also noticed people drilling holes in their throttle linkage and using clevis pins from hobby shops etc. This too is unneccesary.

One of the attachment methods included in the kit is made to go over the stud where the throttle rod attaches to the linkage on the rear throttle body. Just pop the rod off, loop the c/c linkage over the post and pop the rod back on.

The Wee linkage may be different enough from the Vee that drilling a hole is required but the kit was almost made for the Vee. I didn't have to drill one hole durring the install. Of course my actuator is zip tied to the frame under the right rear plastic behind the rear master cylinder reservoir but even if it comes loose it can't go anywhere. It won't affect the operation of the unit and I can reattach it if/when I need to.
 
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