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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 2004 1k Bought bike used from an individual on FB couple months ago. A week after had to put a new fuel pump on. Went with $800 OEM. Ran great for 1 day. Then it throws a f1 code with red light in center on and doesn't idle or run right. Took to the dealer and now 4 weeks later dealer calls me down to show me the problem. Claims its the coil on the throttle body and it's all 1 part at about $1200. He showed me when I got there today what it was doing. Says when turn the key on it moves the butterflies. In video I turn key on and flaps move but makes an extra move at the end. Dealer says it is the coil has gone bad and causing it to move more than it should. Coil has 6 ohms of resistance in any position the butterfly is in. Any insight would be greatly appreciated
 

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Welcome Suzi2. First thing, GET AWAY FROM THAT DEALER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did the dealer show you a video of what YOUR bike's butterflies were doing? Those would be the Secondary butterflies. When you turn on the ignition they should cycle open, then set themselves to a position that is just about closed.

The coil on the throttle body will be the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). They wear out over years and mileage. That is normal. They can be replaced. You could probably buy a dozen for $1200. It sounds to me like the dealer is trying to sell you a throttle body with the TPS.

The TPS may have been the original problem or just wasn't obvious with the fuel pump problem. Speaking of which, there is a common fuel pump problem, but in reality it is a high pressure fuel filter problem. The filter gets plugged, but can't be replaced by itself - hence dealers replacing the entire fuel pump assembly. Folks here have figured out a mod to bypass that filter and use an external filter instead. You're good now, though. The new assembly will last at least as long as the original did.

Tell us where you are. There may be a knowledgeable member close to you who can guide you though these things.

Get away from that dealer!!!!!!!!

Cheers,
Glenn
 
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I tried to post a video I took earlier. I will try it again with this post
 

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I don't know if you can actually post a video until you get 10 posts done. Maybe if it was uploaded to Youtube you might be able to post a link. If that doesn't work maybe you can send me the link by PM (called Conversations here).
 

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Appears it won't allow me to post a video. I am in Kingsport TN.
The dealer allowed that the coil is bound up and not allowing the butterflies to close all the way. I put 0-4.6 volts which is all three voltage my current limiting power supply would allow to it and it had limited movement and will not close all the way with 0 volts on it.
 

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There was another person here with similar Secondary Throttle Body (butterflies) problems just in the past few days. I'm sure some much experienced person will jump in here soon with more detail for you before long. Just don't spend any more money, yet.
 
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I don't know. I think that looks OK.
 

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I think that's OK. It's not a choke. The Secondaries are meant to close a bit to improve low RPM performance. A lot of guys remove them completely and say the bike still works great. Popular mod.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
I appreciate the help. I am an electrical and instrumentation mechanic so I have an understanding of how it works but I've never done any troubleshooting on a motorcycle. If I knew how its supposed to work, I would understand the problem more but I'm definitely leaning lol
 

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I think it was right before you reversed polarity. I don't think they are supposed to be virtually shut when in operation. Their job would be to speed up the airflow a bit at low RPM by creating a "venturi" effect.

There isn't a choke. Cold start mixture is controlled by the FI via the ECU.

Someone else will chime in.

BTW, what exactly are your symptoms before the fuel pump change and now? Also, how many miles on her?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It was VERY sluggish below 4k rpm. Replaced the fuel pump and that problem was solved and ran great. The next day it throwed the f1 code and had very low idle with limited power during riding like it was put in limp mode
 

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There is a TPS adjustment that should be tried, just in case. There are instructions on here for how to do that. The best way seems to be to start with it turned fully clockwise, then rotating back counterclockwise a tiny bit at a time waiting a minute between movements to let the adjustment take effect and give the reading (-00). It can be a finicky adjustment.
 
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