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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have and 07 Wee pretty well farkled that I like; but started thinking of a VEE for more power two up. I just rode a VEE for first time today that is an 02 with 40k miles that is well farkled with PCIII, Scorpion exhaust. Original PO from 2002 to current owner about last 2k miles.

My major impressions positively were that the strong locomotive torque pull should really do the trick two up (solo test ride unfortunately) and are considerable plus over the WEE. I also did not feel a difference in nimbleness some talk of compared to WEE (both have reworked suspensions and Vee has lighter slipon and lighter luggage). These have me very interested.

One negative this 02 has chudder and had clutch plates/springs only done in 2009 by original PO at about 32k I am guessing. I am not too concerned as there is a WERKS fix for the chudder.

My major conern-- The original PO until past year had pretty good notebook of service (clutch was only out of ordinary maintenance) but no mention of valve check or adjust. Looking at the valve poll it could be risky to buy a bike with 40k if that was never checked. My own experience with two DL650 was that each needed adjustment of a few of the valves when I checked both about 10k miles (just barely tight). I reset mid-spec.

I am not as worried about a Strom even if only checked at the first interval and adjusted if needed; but thereafter not even checked to the 40k as I figure that initial check after run-in/seating is probably the most important and if they were set mid-spec then probably low risk (or even in spec). Given that PO kept a lot of records I find it odd that valve check or adjust records would not exist at this point if by a shop or even directly by PO. The checks and adjustment notes are very useful.

This has me thinking of maybe backing off on this bike. Maybe I missed them and I’ll ask the current owner check again for notes. The record 3-ring was mainly receipt based and had oil changes (not all I think- no big), the clutch work, tire changes, chain change. I log my work in excel sheet which anyone could just make up but also keep receipts for major service and farkles and it would seem that valve check notes and in particular any adjustments would be kept.

I know some folks think valve adjustments are not that important but I think at very least the first one is. The bike seemed to run pretty good other than chudder; and idle was not rough. I am not sure if there is another way to guess at valve condition. If I had some notes I could be confident in I would not hesitate for make and offer to buy.

I'd be interested to find if others know of ways to guess at or check for signs of valve wear that without wrenching.
 

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Just ask about valve adjustment

Others here can talk more intellegently about how a V would like zero valve adjustments

I however do all my own work and would like to believe usually with more skill and caring then the average stealership (sunshine). I don't record ever, if you asked me about records, I gave all my Vinyl to a collector.
 

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I only adjust mine every 40K. They're fine.

These engines generally tighten up as they age, so, if you can hear the valves ticking away, you should be all set, because that means the valves have clearance.

Ask about it, then, if you buy it, check them out for yourself. Set them to the high spec, and you shouldn't have to touch them again for the next 30k or so.

This has been my experience with Japanese shim-under-bucket engines. I last set mine at 60K after a 33K mile interval. One exhaust valve was a little tight. Set all valves to the high spec, and I'm not pulling the valve covers until at least the century mark. Maybe I'm a little reckless, but I trust the thing.

Stroms are pretty bomb-proof. Be happy with the 1K
 

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The only way to tell if valves are out of spec on a properly running bike is to check them. While polls show tendencies, they can't give definitive information about any one bike. Sounds won't provide definitive info either. "A slappy valve is a happy valve" has some truth to it but what if seven are ticking and one isn't? The first sign of a too tight valve is an engine will lose power when warmed up and maybe be hard to start. If that is not happening, chances are no damage has yet been done.
 

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i didnt do valve adj. untill 65k on the clock. at that point bike was running kind-a sick. as in wouldnt rev pass 7k. at first i thought it was fuel pump but it was ok. 5 out of 8 out of spec's. adjusted and she runs ok ever since. i put 20k on her since last adj.. probably will check this winter.
 
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Pull the lid and check

Either have the seller adjust them as part of the sale or do it afterwards. The bike is running well so they are working even if they are tight, and doing the adjustment is just a few more steps than just checking them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks - probably ok

Thanks for replies guys. Probably not risky the way it seems to have good power (although I am used to WEE). During test ride I did stop engine once and restart and it did blub, stall once and take a few turns to start but that could have been my starting technique. I only took it up to I think about 7.5k and was pulling fine so I am probably ok. I am not at all worried about doing the check (I do my own); just don’t want to buy one that got way tight or closed up that has a poor valve.
 
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You could take a compression tester over there and see. I think you could get to both plugs without too much BS and then you'd know for sure.
 

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Just use the absence of a valve check as a reason to get $250 off the price. Though anecdotal, when I torn my D1K apart due to a broken timing chain at 42k miles, I found the valves were all in good condition, except the ones that were smashed by the piston when the chain broke.:headbang:
 
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