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Discussion Starter #1
With a Garmin 2730, MP3 and Escort radar detector running, the voltmeter (on the Escort) shows a consistent 14.1 volts at highway speeds (5,000-6,000 rpm).
Riding in CO this last week, it was cold enough in the am to run the HotGrips and WarmNSafe liner; these are controlled by HeatTrollers.
With both full on, the Escort voltmeter was mainly reading 12.1-12.5 but occasionally dropped to 11.9. Backing the liner HeatTroller to about 2/3 had the voltmeter in the high 12s to the low 13s. Grips didn't seem to make much difference.
This has made me wonder if I have enough spare juice to run the Rostra CC? Am ready to order and want to make sure before I do. TIA. Ian, Iowa
 

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I don't think we know how much power the Rostra electric cruise control draws, and it'll draw more momentarily when it is pulling the throttles open. It comes with a 20 amp fuse, but we don't know the actual draw. The Rostra vacuum cruise control draws much less power, fits under the side panels, is cheaper, and works well up to an actual 75 mph. murphskits.com has the vacuum unit as well as the electric unit.
 

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I run the CCS-100 instead of the Rostra but am told the Rostra really doesn't make much difference. The motor only runs when the throttle position is changed and not for long. Keeping an eye on the voltmeter is a good idea.
 

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I can't imagine running the Warm n Safe at full power. Do you have some thick garment under it that is insulating you from the heat?

I run Oxford grips, Gerbing heated gloves, a Warm n Safe jacket and a Rostra Global Cruise (the electronic one) with all on at the same time. I have a Chargalert on the bike, so I monitor the charging continuously. I have never had a problem with capacity.

That being said, I do not run the grips and jacket at full power. The gloves are generally turned up pretty high, though.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can't imagine running the Warm n Safe at full power. Do you have some thick garment under it that is insulating you from the heat?
I run Oxford grips, Gerbing heated gloves, a Warm n Safe jacket and a Rostra Global Cruise (the electronic one) with all on at the same time. I have a Chargalert on the bike, so I monitor the charging continuously. I have never had a problem with capacity.
That being said, I do not run the grips and jacket at full power. The gloves are generally turned up pretty high, though.
Ron
I ran the liner on full just to observe the current draw, but I wasn't uncomfortably hot; 2/3 full worked well in the rainy 39 degree weather over Rabbit Ears Pass.
I only had a polyester T-shirt on underneath the liner and wore a MotoPort Kevlar Mesh jacket over it all. If it's really cold, I wear a windshirt on top of the liner.
BTW, I'm a geezer and get colder than I used to! Thanks for the replies, good info. Looks like I'll be OK with the Rostra CC. Ian, Iowa
 

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The general rule when I went to Pitts Inst. of Aeronautics was that it took approx 1.2 volts charge voltage (voltage can be viewed as PRESSURE much like water pressure) to push into each volt of battery. The rule of thumb provided in school was 13.8v-14.2v required for proper charging. Unless the rules of electricity have changed in the last 20 years, I'd say your sucking more than your blowing :green_lol:
 

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12.6-12.8V is all it takes to keep the battery charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just to be on the safe side, I’m thinking of installing a headlight relay/cutout setup from Eastern Beaver; not sure which kit I need.

The H4 dual headlight kit has no switching, only spares the starter switch-right?
Then there are kits that switch one or both headlights. I would like to have at least one headlight on for safety reasons. Will that spare enough juice?

Suggestions appreciated, TIA. Ian, Iowa
 

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EB has a relay kit with one headlight cut out built in. See Suzuki VStrom Electrics and scroll down a tad. You'll need a switch too. You'll get another 55W to play with if you don't need the second headlight.
 

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I got the one headlight cut-off from Easten Beaver. Simple install. Got it because I run; oxford grips, Gerbling jacket, GPS, XM radio, Escort Radar Detector and at times Autocomm, with CB radio had wired. Works well in conserving enough juice to run it all and also keep enough juice to battery. I did this before I knew about the MOSFET upgrade, which I probably would have attempted first. I got the MOSFET and intend to installl it on a rainy cool day. If it works as I think it might, I perhaps will sell the Eastern Beaver headlight cut off.
 

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I got the MOSFET plus 35W HID headlights. I still need the cut off switch when I run grips, gloves, jacket liner and socks hot enough to be comfy in near freezing temp long trips.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Geez, you guys are costing me a fortune! :thumbup:
I assume after searching and Googling that MOSFET is a replacement voltage regulator/rectifier. What's the advantage?

Reading the Wee sites, I can only remember one failure (@106,000 miles). What other advantages are there. TIA Ian, Iowa

Also, is bypassing the starter switch, only having it powering a relay to the headlights better than a simple (and much cheaper) cutout switch.
 

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Headlight relays are better because they take the load off switches and connectors, both of which are marginal in size. Folks have lost headlights due to the starter switch, fairing connector, connector behind the radiator and hi/lo switch. Relays prevent all that and get more power to the lights. A cutout switch lets you turn off a headlight to save power for heated gear. They serve two different purposes and can be used together.

I like HID replacement headlights when using heated gear because they provide more light, draw less power and provide a steady brightness even with a heat controller cycling. The HID kit includes a headlight relay.

A MOSFET R/R is more efficient, provides more power at idle and can lower output when not needed instead of always putting out the maximum and dumping excess as heat.
 

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Nice to know that I did not my waste money on the headlight cutout switch. I guess I will keep it even after installing my MOSFET replacement.
 
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