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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I thought I'd ask if anyone would have an idea what might be causing an engine vibration that comes on at 4.8K RPM. Now this is not a wheel vibration thing as I can recreate it in 1st gear.

I bought the bike with about 9K miles on it and I know has about 13.5K. The air filter is likely original, the valves haven't been adjusted yet. I do have a ruff spot at 3K when I transition through that but as far as I can tell that is normal until I put a PCIII in it.

Would a PCIII help with this 5K and up vibration?

The throttle bodies have been synchronized at the 1200 rpm range and it is much smoother at the lower rpm's. This was done six months ago so I don't remember if the high rpm vibrations where there originally or not. I remember it being a bit ruff across the entire rpm band before it was synchronized. I guess I could try to tweak it at a higher rpm if it doesn't try to suck up the fluid in the manometer.

This vibration isn't severe but it is definitely noticeable and I don't like running the engine in this range if I don't have to.
I would like to get rid of this vibration as it limits my desire to use half the RPM range. As you know this engine just starts pulling hard at 5k so it is killing some of my fun. Now my VTR1000F engine (Honda V-twin) is a smooth all over. Maybe that is due to the superior technology used, carburetors (just kidding).

Anyone ever have some similar vibration issue and have an ideas of what to try to get rid of it?

Thanks in advance.

Bdudemon
 

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Would help to know what model you own? And........are there any crashbars installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2003 DL1000,
SW-MOTECH Crashbars/Engine Guards are intalled and no panniers.
I have foam grips on the bars and the vibration is mostly sensed through the handle bars.
 
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The 2002/03 DL1000 have a faulty clutch basket design causing vibrations between 4K and 5K rpm. It sounds like that's your problem. Suzuki replaced some when bikes were out of warranty a few years ago but I replaced it myself on my 2002. I think it was a few $100 for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I took the bike out for a short trip around the neighborhood running 5-6K rpm in first gear and those crash bars really vibrate at about 5.2K to about 6K. I looked at taking off the crash bars as a test until I realized that my SW-Motech skid plate would have to come off and I really dig that as it is powder coated black on my yellow DL1000 and looks really good. I bought the bike with the skid plate and bars on it so I'm not as familiar with them as I would be if I had initially installed them. I did notice that the largest cross engine bolt wasn't really as tight as it could be so I tightened that up and the 3 of the 4 smaller bolts a bit and the vibes seem a lot less on the 2nd test drive. The vibes that were there where of a higher frequency but much lower amplitude. If that is what I end up with I can live with it, my foam grips (a must have) will filter that out. I have to take a rare 40 mile ride tomorrow morning on the highway instead of going to work at 30 mph, ahh that just sucks :) so I'll see if if this helped the vibes in the 5K-6K range and report back. I wonder why they didn't design the mounting solution with hard rubber donuts in where the bars mount and cut those spacers in there in half. It would be hard enough to take the impact of the bike falling over and possibly cut down on the vibrations getting to those bars and then being amplified. I notice they do have rubber grommets attaching the skid plate to the bike and to the crash bars, now how about to the bike?

Now after taking that highway ride this morinng it seems about 1/2 the amplitude of the vibes is now gone at 5K and well as across the lower rpms. And it can be felt by grabbing the crash bar when at the rpms. The bars begin to buzz again with a higher frequency at 6K rpm. So tightening the bars helped quite a bit. Especially the main bolt that runs across the span of the engine. So the rest of the vibration is the engine IMO. Has anyone successfully dialed out higher RPM vibration with a PCIII? I believe you can adjust the fuel rate to each cylinder with it so I'm wondering if a little experimentation with the air fuel mix would work. First dial both of them in a basic air fuel mix then try to tweak one cylinder at a time a bit to see if it helps at high rpm. Basically the bike is a joy to ride below 5K which is easy to do but above that it looses that smoothness. My V-twin on my Superhawk with just carbs is smooth all over the rpm range. I would think this engine could do the same if tweaked right. Anyone have a VStrom that is as smooth or very close to it running the engine at 6K rpm as they do at 3K rpm? I haven't rode any others so I have no basis of comparison. I also have to do the clutch modification on this bike next spring and maybe to get rid of the idle clatter or chudder they call it and maybe that is contributing to the vibrations. I also need to get a PCIII for it around Xmas. I have done more of my fair share in supporting the economy lately with spending on my three bikes so I'll have to wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Latest, well I broke down and bout a PCIII for this bike, rather pricey but you can't argue with results. With the stock map, the PCIII took out the lean snarl at around 2.5K to 3.5K that the bike had. The PCIII made the bike fun to ride down in the lower RPM ranges. I always tried to get to 4K and stay there as much as possible to avoid the snarl and lag experienced with transitioning through the lower RPM ranges. This fixed that. I can detect a very slight snarl once in awhile but it doesn't impact the bikes power or throttle responsiveness. So I'm now a believer that a PCIII is a requirement for this bike.

I still get vibrations starting at 5200 rpm on the bike. Now I if I remember right I don't ever get there if I'm in 6th gear going down the highway so that isn't as big of a deal overall as I don't need to cruise at that RPM. However I will still work on trying to figure that one out since I'm an engineer and I can't help myself. It almost smacks of some resonance based vibration. It is too damn hot here in FL right now to take on any extra garage work so I'll save that for November. I'll pull off the SW-MOTECH Crashbars/Engine Guards then and see what happens.

Why am I posting this? Just in case it helps out one other person with a VStrom DL1000 enjoy their bike more. I'm sure there are many others out there that are new to the Vee out there all the time that have the same issues.
 

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Latest, well I broke down and bout a PCIII for this bike, rather pricey but you can't argue with results. With the stock map, the PCIII took out the lean snarl at around 2.5K to 3.5K that the bike had.
Ok, but ... I still do not understand why so many DL650 owners seem to want to run this bike at potato-potato-potato like a big-bore cruiser (swapping sprockets and whatnot). Why not just run at higher engine speed, ferpetesake, like it's designed to do??

I fail to be convinced that any actual problem is being solved here. This is all subjective silliness. Just my humble opinion, of course.
 

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My K2 just developed a similar vibe at 5 thousand rpm, I assumed it was in need of a slight TBS tweak, as it ran fine after a TBS earlier this season. Threw my Carbtune on it and sync was off slightly, but didn't take the time(due to the heat) to try and syncronize it. Cooler temps are arriving now, maybe this weekend I'll get to TBS it and post results.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
LOL, not sure what DL650 owners do but this a DL1000 and this bike should be able to run at 3K rpm at 30mph without protesting so badly like it did before. The engine wouldn't lug it just would snarl, fart, and hesitate with throttle movements. My Honda 1K V twin sportbike can do this all day long and be silky smooth doing it. And with the PCIII the DL1000 now it does it well. Not Honda V-twin well but well enough to be an enjoyable bike to ride. I don't know about you but I can't maneuver through a parking lot at 4K+ rpm very easily, that is a hell of a lot of clutch work and a bad way to ride. Expecting a 1000cc bike to run when needed below 4K, say 2500 to 3500 in the low gears is not asking much.

There was really two problems the typical 3K lean mapping problem and the 5200 rpm vibration issue. The PCIII definately fixed the bike so it can be ran below or transition to 4K+ nicely but the 5200 rpm vibration issue is still there and I'll persue that one when I can stand to be in the hot garage again. Anyhow I'm just happy my Strom runs so much better now. I don't walk past it now to ride my other bikes it gets it fair time being ridden now.

One other note for all of those that put a PCIII on their bikes they probably realized this too. The bike with the stock PCIII map runs leaner over most of the range and richer in it's 3K band. The bike revs up so much better now for it. Not sure about the later bikes but this 2003 DL1000 had such a bad fuel map (now I know) that I'm amazed that Suzuki got away with selling them like that.

Take it for what is worth, everything is subjective, right, everybike runs a bit different and it's ok I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything. Just sharing my experiences with my Vstrom (DL1000) and hoping others that rode before me down this path can jump in and help me from time to time.
 

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Any more insight on this? I have a DL650K7 that has most unpleasant engine raggedness that starts at +-5,400 and remains all the way to the top.

I have the Pat Walsh bar/plate setup and temporarily removed it to eliminate a possible culprit but no change.

I did a homemade TBS without any computer and made it somewhat better but guess I should take it to a dealer and spend some $$$.

Here's hoping you found a magic solution!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Latest, well I broke down and bout a PCIII for this bike, rather pricey but you can't argue with results. With the stock map, the PCIII took out the lean snarl at around 2.5K to 3.5K that the bike had. The PCIII made the bike fun to ride down in the lower RPM ranges. I always tried to get to 4K and stay there as much as possible to avoid the snarl and lag experienced with transitioning through the lower RPM ranges. This fixed that. I can detect a very slight snarl once in awhile but it doesn't impact the bikes power or throttle responsiveness. So I'm now a believer that a PCIII is a requirement for this bike.

I still get vibrations starting at 5200 rpm on the bike. Now I if I remember right I don't ever get there if I'm in 6th gear going down the highway so that isn't as big of a deal overall as I don't need to cruise at that RPM. However I will still work on trying to figure that one out since I'm an engineer and I can't help myself. It almost smacks of some resonance based vibration. It is too damn hot here in FL right now to take on any extra garage work so I'll save that for November. I'll pull off the SW-MOTECH Crashbars/Engine Guards then and see what happens.

Why am I posting this? Just in case it helps out one other person with a VStrom DL1000 enjoy their bike more. I'm sure there are many others out there that are new to the Vee out there all the time that have the same issues.
I guess I can reply to my own message here. Basically I want to close out this issue as maybe this will help someone doing a search in the future.
As far as the vibration issues on this bike goes, first I got a PCIII and it reduced the cough/vibe issue at 3K by about 90%. But the bike still had a noticeable vibe at 5200 rpm. Well I bought the parts to do the clutch basket replacement on this bike a few months back and now with some time off it is done and what a huge improvement it made. The vibes are gone at 5200 rpm. Their is no issue at 3200 rpm or in fact anywhere in the rpm band. The engine is smooth everywhere. It sounds better idling and it is easier to shift and the bike is happy running at any rpm.

So suffice it to say if you have any vibration problem that comes in at certain rpm's take a serious look at replacing the clutch basket if it hasn't been done yet. Well worth the money as the bike runs as good as my Honda Superhawk's V twin engine which I never possible considering what I started with when I bought this bike. Funny thing was was that my initial impression with this bike was that there was a clutch issue which was ok with because I figured I could fix it. That was long before I found out that this was common problem with this bike. I want to say thanks to Daniel M. O'Brien and all the others out there for doing some a nice job with the power point slides and documenting the clutch basket changing procedure it sure made it easy for the first timer taking the clutch apart. Damn this bike runs sweet :mrgreen:
 

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Most Suzuki dealers will do the clutch basket on any year if you persist politely. Mine certainly will as I'm having mine done next week. It sure as hell helped my 02.
SOF
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Most Suzuki dealers will do the clutch basket on any year if you persist politely. Mine certainly will as I'm having mine done next week. It sure as hell helped my 02.
SOF
Not around here, the closest dealer is new with Suzuki and it is 25 miles away and I'm not sure they even have any Suzuki's in there yet on the floor. I'm heading up there for a fun ride tomorrow. The local dealer that is 4 miles away is such a POS, that everyone hates them and they now only carry Honda as they dropped or were dropped by Kawasaki, Triumph, Suzuki and Yamaha. Next closet dealer to the 25 mile place is 60 miles or so. Yeah it might have been a option with a good dealer but we don't have any unfortunately. Pretty sad as there is year around riding here in FL. Saving some bucks would be nice but you also learn a lot by working on your own bikes. I like to do my own work as much as I can as I don't trust dealers very much whether it is my bikes or my truck.
 

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Not around here, the closest dealer is new with Suzuki and it is 25 miles away and I'm not sure they even have any Suzuki's in there yet on the floor. I'm heading up there for a fun ride tomorrow. The local dealer that is 4 miles away is such a POS, that everyone hates them and they now only carry Honda as they dropped or were dropped by Kawasaki, Triumph, Suzuki and Yamaha. Next closet dealer to the 25 mile place is 60 miles or so. Yeah it might have been a option with a good dealer but we don't have any unfortunately. Pretty sad as there is year around riding here in FL. Saving some bucks would be nice but you also learn a lot by working on your own bikes. I like to do my own work as much as I can as I don't trust dealers very much whether it is my bikes or my truck.
Im sorry to hear that. It only takes one or two to make the rest of us look bad...
 
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