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I guess I am looking to purchase an aftermarket engine tuner for my D L 1000.
Not anything crazy, I just want a little more responsive throttle.
Reliable,plug and play not something I have to download data from my laptop.
Thank you.
I look forward to hearing from you.
Be safe riding.
 

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Probably the most common would be the Power Commander V (5). It will come loaded with a map. That may or may not be better than what you have. ANY "tuner" is going to be that way. There are maps you can download and try ( requires a computer ), or you can have a shop dyno tune the bike. That is the ONLY way to maximize the tuning.
The 2002-2012 DL 1000 has some fueling issues, and a Super Tune to get the TPS right, Throttle body boots properly seated, Iridium plugs, and proper TBS balance along with setting idle to 1300 rpm can make the a lot more responsive and happy in the lower rpm range.
 

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I recently bought the Holeshot/Dobeck EFI Supertune, I couldn't believe previous owner(s) of the '07 DL1000 I just picked up had rode the thing to 40,000 miles with the horrifically bad stock fueling below 4k RPM. It was maddening, that area around 2800 to 4000 RPM was a constant bike hiccup waiting to happen. I wasn't aware of this issue beforehand, I didn't think an OEM bike could have such bad fueling, but hey those emissions test get more difficult to pass all the time. Reading up on it here, I realized about 10,000 other owners mentioned it as well.

The Holeshot EFI thingie is plug-and-play, just plug it in and go play. No dyno needed. Smooth as silk now, and based on Dale Walker's dyno charts looks like the bike picks up nearly 10 ft-lbs of torque right down there in the low-RPM area where you need it.

 

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Probably the most common would be the Power Commander V (5). It will come loaded with a map. That may or may not be better than what you have.
I got a PCV for my '02 DL1000 a few months ago. It did come with a default loaded map that improved the bike, especially low RPM issues, but it did hurt my fuel economy and the bike started smelling more. About a week ago I finally got around to hooking up my laptop, to look at the map loaded, and the maps available. I found out that the PCV came loaded by default with a map for the US spec '04-'09 DL1000. Loads of enrichments all over the place, no wonder the bike started smelling and I got about a 10% worse mileage. Apparently US spec bikes are delivered with a leaner mixture than EU spec bikes. (*)

I then went to the Power Commander website and found two maps for the '02 DL1000: A US one with loads of enrichments all over the map again, and an EU one with just a few enrichments for low end torque and to solve the 3000-3250 RPM lean stumble, and it even leans the mixture a bit at high RPM/power combos. I loaded that map and the bike now performs flawlessly, although it's too early to tell if my fuel economy is back.

I might do a larger write-up "for dummies" in the future, but for now I can say that you definitely will want to take a look at the map on any PCV that you bought new, even if the sticker on the packaging says it's for your bike. There are plenty additional maps to download from the Power Commander website and trying out a few of these can help. And of course there's maps you can download from the stromtrooper site, and you can get a custom tune for your bike at a tuner. But just plugging in a Power Commander V and hoping that it solves any problem.... It's not that kind of product.

If you want to get the absolute best performance out of the PCV but don't want to go to a tuner, you need to know this: You can wire a remote (handlebar) switch into the PCV, and this switch then lets you choose between two different stored maps. That allows you to test and compare different maps under identical driving conditions, with just a toggle of a handlebar switch. No need to shut down the bike, fire up the laptop and load a new map just to test a few settings.

The only thing I wish that would be available is some sort of remote PCV readout where you can see RPM and %PWR on the handlebar. So while driving and experiencing a lean stumble or rich condition, you can see immediately which value on the map to adjust. Heck, if you could then combine this with some sort of clip-in-the-exhaust sensor that tells you whether you're running rich or lean, and maybe add a bit of recording equipment somehow, you could do a pretty good job without going to the tuner.

(*) Just compared Partzilla (US-centric) to MSP (EU-centric). Partzilla lists the control unit for the K2 model year as 32920-06G21, while MSP lists it as 32920-06G01. Partzilla lists this as for country codes E3 (USA), E28 (Canada), E33 (California), while MSP lists country codes E02 (UK), E19 (Europe). I guess you could advise that people in the US with lean issues could also try an EU-spec ECU but at about 1200 euros plus shipping it's a lot cheaper to get a Power Commander and the right map.
 

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Definitely, but you will then need to rig up a permanent sensor somehow, which probably is going to require some welding to the exhaust system. AFAIK at least the earliest models DL1000 did not have an O2 sensor anywhere that you can tap into for the PCV.
 

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There is a PC5 for sale over on ADV for 150. You could speak with the seller and see what exhaust, air cleaner setup he had to see if it is like yours. Might be plug and play.
 

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If you can find somebody knowledgeable about tuning a DL they can re-flash your ECU with a laptop and using a dyno. This is a one step correction that requires no extraneous hardware. But, if you say change exhausts or air filters, you likely will need another re-flash.

The power commander solution is fine too, but is an extra device that modifies the sensor signals going to the ECU. It "fools" the ECU into adding more fuel where you want it to. A fuel controller can be used to retune for modifications but it will need to go back on a dyno. Some use their "butt-dyno" and spark plug observations and tune it themselves or the internet is full of free maps.

Which ever way you choose to go, YOU WILL LOOSE MPG. What you are doing is adding fuel at the lower revs where the bike is ridiculously lean. My DL went from around 40 mpg running shitty to 34-35 mpg running correctly. Pick your poison. I also picked up a few horsepower from the dyno work, but that was not my goal.
 

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I have a K&N filter and Two Brothers pipes and a PC5 and get between 41 and 43 mpg. My bike pulls smoothly from 2000 RPM with light throttle. Plugs looked perfect at 28K miles. I rarely see 5500 RPM and am usually running between 3000 and 4000 RPM. On any down hills I am upshifting and keeping the RPMs and the noise down. Guess my hooligan days are past me.
 

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I have a K&N filter and Two Brothers pipes and a PC5 and get between 41 and 43 mpg. My bike pulls smoothly from 2000 RPM with light throttle. Plugs looked perfect at 28K miles. I rarely see 5500 RPM and am usually running between 3000 and 4000 RPM. On any down hills I am upshifting and keeping the RPMs and the noise down. Guess my hooligan days are past me.
Same. Torque at 4500 RPM is exactly like torque at 7000 RPM so it's pointless to rev it high. These are not the cams you are looking for. Surf the sub-5000k RPM torque wave and enjoy.
 

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When mine was mapped like I like it, with good off throttle response, it was getting mid 30's mpg. I did not care. The bike was plain nasty to ride at partial throttle with stock settings.
 

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View attachment 294820
I recently installed this tuner very straight forward, only hard time is getting my hands in to disconnect the plugs towards the front of the bike. Any questions please ask.
Another suggestion, if you haven’t done it already, would be that you do the external fuel filter modification. Seems like quite a few of these first-generation models ends up with the built-in fuel filter clogged, requiring a bypass or else replacement of the entire fuel pump assembly. Would at least ensure that you have normal (if not better than OEM) fuel flow...
K7 DL1000 fuel filter bypass modification
 

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I just wanted to add - further to Backpacker's post near the top - the 2002-2003 Vee has a 16 bit ECU whereas the 2004+ Vee uses a 32 bit ECU. You must make sure you are using a fuel map in your Power Commander specifically for the 2002-2003.

Here's the one I have in my 2002 after a lot of tweaking. When I did this I had Delkevic 18" cans on it with the DB Killers in. I suspect I'd have to get it dyno tuned to improve on this. It gives good starting, idling, smoothness, power and response in all rev ranges. AND gets decent gas mileage - 38-40 or so MPG US.

 
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