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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Went for a rally ride on my new to me DL1000 K3. The sun had set and I plugged in my jacket (fused connection directly to battery) and intermittently the engine would sputter when I had my gerbings jacket on over 20%. One time, with the jacket at 100%, while going 50+mph, all electric went out- headlight and the engine died. Nothing like bump starting your bike while coasting, at night, on Wisconsin rural roads.

There are no other electric farkles. Connector is direct wired and fused to battery.

Come to think of it, I have encountered some hiccups while cruising but didn't think much of it, now thinking they are related.

I am going to start with testing the battery and charging system with a multimeter.

Bike starts great every time, battery is two years old. I don't think it is the battery though.

Thoughts or other areas to check?

I will be adding heated grips as well for an October trip to the black hills and commuting into December in Minnesota.

Thanks in advance, looking forward to lots of adventures on the Vee... just need to figure this out.


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You may have the dreaded loose magnet syndrome.

Normally that load should not be too much. First fix is to unplug one of the headlights so you can get home.

Next install directly to the battery temporarily a digital V-meter with a switch or on switched power, if there is relay box. Monitor the voltage and see if its in the normal range >14V or not. If not search for charging system problems. There are many threads about it here. Just one recent one:
http://www.stromtrooper.com/4819234-post10.html
Common problem on early VEE's is that the magnets are not glued down well and move together.

Other potential issue is a shortened stator. Again many threads about that.

First measure to know if your system voltage is normal or not while riding!
 

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A permanent voltmeter is a must have on these bikes.

I too would guess your magnets in the rotor have migrated together. Which can lead to a failed stator.

These bikes have plenty of power to run the accessories you mentioned, but only if the charging system is up to par. These bikes run like crap when the voltage drops!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update: I ordered a digital volt meter to display when riding. Should be here in two days. I just borrowed a volt meter and the batter cold is registering 13.04 volts on the terminals. It is too late in the evening to do a running test. Will try it tomorrow. Thanks again!


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On my 2002 DL1000 with a 3 y/o battery: 12.50V. key OFF; 12.04V. key ON; 14.4V. cold, fast idle with engine running at 2000rpm and charging. Readings were taken with a digital VoltOhmMeter at the battery terminals.

14.4 V. showing on installed volt meter while riding. Usually. Drops into the high 13's for a while sometimes on very hot days.
 

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Common problem on early VEE's is that the magnets are not glued down well and move together.
I've been wondering when these problems really started. All the pictures I've seen of loose magnets were pictures with SIX magnets in the rotor. When I recently opened up my 2002 DL1000, the rotor only had FOUR (bigger) magnets.

Does anybody know when the output of the system was increased and when Suzuki moved to six-magnet rotors? Does anybody know of any reports of problems with older (2002-2003?) four-rotor magnets?

Edited: 'been doing some digging on MSP.
2002 DL1000 Rotor P/N 3210206G00, 4 magnets
2003-2010 DL1000 Rotor P/N 3210206G10, drawn in the fiche as 4 magnets but I suspect it's really 6 magnets
I could not find a parts fiche for 2011-2013 DL1000s
2014+ DL1000A Rotor P/N 3210231J00, no # of magnets drawn
 

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2002 DL 1000 had a unique charging system. Rotor and stator were different. I want to think they were rated at 350, maybe 375 watts of output. Later models were 400 watts. I don't know that I have seen any of the 2002 magnets loose, but I assume they could act the same as later models.
 

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The 2002 DL1000 had a 350W charging system. It went up to 400W in 2003 and 490W in 2014.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@Austin44 - thanks for the numbers! I'll get to dig into it this weekend. It is getting cooler here in MN and I really need to get this sorted sooner than later. The riding season for me typically goes until they start laying down salt...
 

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I hear ya. I attended school in St. Paul in the early 60's. Lord Amighty, I learned what COLD IS those days.

My winter riding ends when it takes longer to put on all the necessary "keep warm" gear than it takes to get where I want to go in a car. Or below 35° F. Whichever comes first.

Digital VOM is the way to go for usable, accurate enough readings. The push connectors, on the older V-Stroms anyway, are very susceptible to oxidation. Especially the connectors under the left side cowling plastic and those under the tank. I heartily "second" Greywolf's recommended use of DeoxIT or ACF-50 on all connectors and handlebar switches. So many posts about poor safety connections too - clutch, sidestand switch, kill switch...

The electronic control module ( ECM) is responsible for spark timing, fueling, etc. Everything important. ECM decision making is based on some sensor readings in millivolts. The aluminum frame of the V-Strom isn't used for grounding like the steel body of an automobile. The ground wire connections are as critical as the positive voltage connections. Wire sizes are barely adequate. Good connections are vital.

My 2002 DL1000 seemed to get a second lease on life after I DeoxIT'ed every connector/handlebar switch I could access. Snappy gauge swings on start-up, brighter head and tail lamps, crisp starter and throttle response, battery charger during the winter months only. 15 years old, 70K miles, and it's running reliably and very strong.

Worth the effort for sure. Best of luck with your V-Strom.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ha, yeah, St. Paul in winter is no easy task.

Just in hooked all the accessories from the battery. Here are my results:

13.08- cold, not running
14.4 to 14.8- running - 2k - 5k RPMs




Yeah, St. Paul in Winter is a totally different animal.

Looking at my voltages: (at the battery)

13.08- cold, not running
14.5-14.8 - running, 2-6k RPM.

This seems about right, I will check the grounds and wait for the volt meter I can mount to try and see when it happens.

Thinking I'll check grounds next...


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13.08V. is surprising. I never got more than 12.8V cold, not fresh off charger, with a new battery. 14.4 is my max charge riding or idling. Whatever. I have the lowly 350W system.

Based on an experience of headlight cutting out while riding at night in the past, I strongly recommend your next move would be to check out those pesky, fail prone connectors under the left (drivers?) side cowling plastic. 2 multi-pronged plugs, especially the big one, are liable to corrosion - oxidation - burned contacts.

Re-juving the contacts only accessible under the gas tank is a good idea too. You will see the wire sizes are barely up to the vital jobs they do. Good contacts ( especially those white striped black ground wires ) are critical to V-strom performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just ordered some DetoxIT - any recommendations on use- sounds like you just spray all the connectors after taking them apart and then plug them back together.

The volt meter did not come today, will have to wait until next week to install it and give it a try.

Oh man, electrical issues are my least favorite.
 

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If you bought the DeoxIT spray can, it's only 5% DeoxIT. I believe the major content is a good electronic contact cleaner ( versus de-oxidizer ). Instructions on can but I'd suspect a spray, followed by a drip off, followed by a re-spray and then plug together. The effect on the male prongs, visible, is likely what you get inside the female connector ports.

I have the tiny, ridiculously expensive bottle with the tiny painting brush in the cap. All DeoxIT. I spray clean with CRC electronic contact cleaner ( safe for plastic ), treat with DeoxIT, spray clean after a few minutes, re-apply DeoxIT and plug 'er in.

Thanks to Greywolf, realshelby and so many capable others, on this forum and over at VSRI, my electrical troubleshooting has advanced beyond what I came with. It has paid dividends when dealing with automobiles and home appliances as well. Present and future DIY is about electro-magnetic diagnosis.

Electronic control modules to show you what's wrong? Minimum trial and error, minimum flogging about with greasy tools, nifty Digital stuff to play with? Makes it all more of a "Gentleman's" activity really.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looks like I found the culprit(s) - what do you think?
@Austin44 - I did find some corrosion on the plug on the left side, big plug. See before and after photos of cleaning with just the DetoxIT spray.
Before
IMG_6817 by Isaac Wander, on Flickr

After
IMG_6972 by Isaac Wander, on Flickr

But I think this might be the actual culprit- this one I had to drop the radiator to see. It connects to the ignition.
Look at the red wire- notice how it looks burned, swollen and deformed? That can't be good.

IMG_6967 by Isaac Wander, on Flickr


And look at the other side of the plug- I don't think exposed wire will help my cause any...

IMG_6969 by Isaac Wander, on Flickr

IMG_6970 by Isaac Wander, on Flickr


All the other connectors I found seemed ok, even the start/kill switch looked almost new inside.

I think next step for me is to replace these plugs and see what happens. Unless this would not cause the intermittent electrical issues I was having.

Any suggestions- do I need to buy the whole wiring harness set or can I find just the plugs with soldering new pigtails?

What wires are the red ones? Can I just run a relay for that wire/splice in a new section of wire and bypass the existing plug with a new plug for just the red wire?
 

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@WanderWill you have likely diagnosed and found your problem. Well done.

That red wire carries AMPS. It is inside an important power and ground connector to the ignition switch. DL1000 2002 service manual shows ignition switch connects wire colors: R to O O/Y to B/W Gray to Brown in the ON position.

Red is fused 15AMP going to the switch from the starter relay and R/R, Orange is fused 15AMP en route to power other stuff. I think. Never very good at reading wire diagrams.

A new connector pair is probably difficult to find and expensive. Since the wires are intact, try cleaning the connector pair well, apply dielectric grease and re-connect. Electrical tape over the bare or swollen sections could be enough once you've eliminated resistance due to corrosion.
 

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A corrosion fighting grease like ACF-50 or DeoxIT are even better than dielectric grease, which is more for prevention than cure.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just to confirm- the green plug was not corroded inside. The black plug (under the left side fairing) was the corroded one.

The green plug is the one with the burned/discolored wires and with the red wire missing part of the insulation.
 
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