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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys. The patient is DL 1000 2009.
Got a problem with the engine stall while hard braking. All TPS works were done (and the sensors are new), sparks, fuel and air are okay. Hot idle ab. 1300 rpm. Magneto is also new, so I guess there are two possible reasons: either a clutch switch or a tip-over sensor. I'll check the TOS as manual says. In addition, the clutch switch has an issue: it works fine at engine start, but I can't press the lever to hit it while riding (2 fingers on grip won't let it be pressed enough). Checked on stock and 2 aftermarket (levers and switches)- same problem there. So if this is the only possible solution - will the change to banjo with pressure switch help? And can it mess up the ECU while shifting (AFAIK this switch influences the injector and ignition timing)?
Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 

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I had the same problem on my 2009 DL1000. She would start fine but once the motor was hot it would stall on hard braking. Note that the idle speed was also around 1300 (normal).

1- What I did was do a throttle body sync, where you adjust the vacuum on both throttles.Mine were off by a fair margin. There is plenty of info on this site or Vstrom Riders international. Once done you may have to adjust the idle again. Solved my problem.

2- This year I decided to adjust the throttle cables as I felt they were a bit loose. The same problem started again as the revs would briefly fall below 1000 rpm as soon as I took my hand off the throttle, however it turned out that I had tightened the return cable a bit too much, loosed it a bit and all is well.

I have 136000 km on mine and no sensors changed yet :smile2:

Have a good one
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hard miles, thanks for the reply.
Throttle bodies synced along with the TPS adjustments - that's the first I've done (not myself, our local Strom service, but I've been watching all the process).
- This year I decided to adjust the throttle cables as I felt they were a bit loose.
This can be a problem as I've installed handlebar risers. But the revs never fall below below 1000 while driving, only at braking (ie I can leave the throttle intact and the revs will slowly go down to 1200 or so. But while braking they can drop to 700 for a second). So I think it's not an overtightened or loose cables, but will check.
I have 136000 km on mine and no sensors changed yet
93000 so far and second change. I can't imagine what's leading to their death, but they come out of range. And it's the Moscow Strom society's problem, not just mine...
 

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"In my case since the return cable was slightly too tight" when suddenly decelerating it's as if it kept the rpm's below 1000 just long enough for it to stall.

I wish you good luck.
 

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Hard miles, thanks for the reply.
Throttle bodies synced along with the TPS adjustments - that's the first I've done (not myself, our local Strom service, but I've been watching all the process).
.... I can't imagine what's leading to their death, but they come out of range. And it's the Moscow Strom society's problem, not just mine...

What happens when they get out of range ??
 

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If your bike will not start without pulling your clutch leaver in you don't have a switch problem that can cause the bike to stall.

If your bike will start without pulling in the leaver you have a switch problem that can cause the bike to stall.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry for long silence, guys.
What happens when they get out of range ??
The bike may stall after a long run and stopping with clutch pushed. And no reaction for 15-30 minutes until it gets a bit cooler. In the beginning of the problem you may be lucky to start the engine with the throttle turned for 1/3-1/2, then it becomes worse and no magic helps. It seems hard for the bike to ride, slower response to throttle, the temp begins to rise up to 4 bars while driving (not in jams, just city traffic).

If your bike will not start without pulling your clutch leaver in you don't have a switch problem that can cause the bike to stall.
Well I was lucky to do a test yesterday as I've got new gloves which are thin and I can pull the clutch to a click of switch. So while riding to get the gloves I've got a stalled engine just while stopping at the traffic light (3 bars of temp BTW). While driving home having a clutch lever fully pulled - I've seen revs dropping under 1000 much rarely and the engine seemed to work more smooth at braking. So I'm a bit confused if the switch actually doesn't play any role. But I'm not quite sure about the fuel filter cleanness, so will check it and a banjo bolt with switch next season.
 

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sounds to me like a bad TPS.
 

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You should NEVER hit 4 bars temp. 3 Max. The fans will kick in at 3 and keep it there until it goes back to 2 bars, which is normal. Someone here may chime in and say, "I hit 4 bars sometimes for a few seconds," but they don't live in Moscow; they live in Dubai.

You may have a cooling system problem or something else causing the engine to run hot. Obvious suspects include the rad cap and thermostat and fan. It could also be the radiator is clogged or the water pump is not functioning well.

Valve clearances are in spec?
 

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I'd suggest that you bridge the clutch switch to test if the issue still occurs. No problems, then it is the switch. If the stalling problem continues, look elsewhere.
Take the bridge off once you have done the test.

As well as the TPS another common problem is the side stand switch. Try zip tying the sidestand up.
 

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You could disconnect the brake light switches just to check it is not a electrical problem.

One at a time and then both.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
sounds to me like a bad TPS.
Well, I've got it changed a year back. Can't be sure 100% but it was calibrated and gave no faults.

I'd suggest that you bridge the clutch switch to test if the issue still occurs. No problems, then it is the switch. If the stalling problem continues, look elsewhere.
Take the bridge off once you have done the test.

As well as the TPS another common problem is the side stand switch. Try zip tying the sidestand up.
Yeah the sidestand's spring were loose, got 'em tight. But that didn't solve the problem.
Bridging the switch is an idea, I didn't think that way as the dead and bridged switch often cause the problem like mine (stall while idling).

You could disconnect the brake light switches just to check it is not a electrical problem.

One at a time and then both.
Hmm, I've noticed a burnt lamp in the brake light (5w is good, but the brake spiral won't light). Sounds a bit odd, but I've thought about electrical problems. Will take it out tomorrow and hope there will be a chance to try.

You should NEVER hit 4 bars temp. 3 Max. The fans will kick in at 3 and keep it there until it goes back to 2 bars, which is normal. Someone here may chime in and say, "I hit 4 bars sometimes for a few seconds," but they don't live in Moscow; they live in Dubai.

You may have a cooling system problem or something else causing the engine to run hot. Obvious suspects include the rad cap and thermostat and fan. It could also be the radiator is clogged or the water pump is not functioning well.

Valve clearances are in spec?
Yeah valves were done at the beginning of the season about 3k km ago. In my case 4 bars were seen with a bad TPS. After it was changed 3 bars max. But it may be a good idea to order the cap in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hmm. I have mixed feelings about the stuff.
1. One of rear lamps didn't light at braking - got it out, inserted back - everything fine. Will replace it later of course as the contacts seem to be flattened a bit. Don't know if this can be a problem :).
2. Did a bridge for the clutch switch. So the bike started without pulling the clutch and I've let it warm up to 1 bar. Then headed home and:
a)it seems to be a bit antsy under 3000 rpm (with clutch switch in proper postition it goes smoother at 2500 revs)
b)while braking and hard braking the revs drop to 1200 and not lower (with the switch working they could drop to 700)
c)while idling at traffic light the revs float 1200-1400 with about 10 secs pauses at peak (i.e. 1200 - slowly rising to 1400 - 5-10 sec - dropping to 1200 - 10 secs - 1400 ....).
 

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It could be many things starting with low compression but because it is easy to do I would be looking for a vacuum leak if it were my bike.
 
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If you are sure that the engine responds differently with the clutch switch bridged then you should replace it. (SWITCH ASSY, CLUTCH 57560-02FA0). Are you confident that there is no wear in the lever, that the tab is correctly operating the switch, and that you are not over thinking it?

Fluctuating idle speed will not be because of that switch. That could be a whole list of possibilities, including, as Rolex says, a vacuum leak, or a fuel flow/quality problem. Perhaps you have more than one issue to resolve.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's getting cold and snowy so I hope to run few more tests on the road with clutch switch enabled and then the bike will go to it's lair where we'll make make tests for vacuum leak, change the fuel filter and run the fuel test and so on. Thank you all for the advices, hope I'll be able to solve the problem which isn't a critical one but rather annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hello all. After the winter and all that COVID stuff I've finally tested my Strom with a banjo bolt with switch (Goodridge). It seems that the problem is gone and the cause was in the OEM switch not pushed by a clutch lever.
 
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